Amp heats up quickly, melts fuses and shut down after a while
We just installed this amp and all of the channels work fine but in a short period of time and even w/o the sub channel connected, the amp heats up very quick and it melts fuses ( it burned one fuse, but the other one melt but continued working). And after a while it turns off. Hope someone can help me.
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It's worth noting here that it's more about the physical size & shape of the Fuse thats needed to fit your Fan.
You don't have to use exactly a 5 amp @ 125v fuse.
Any fuse that Fits and is in the range of 5,6,7,8,10 Amp and even 230v is ok.
The fuse is like a piece of soft metal that will melt if too much current is being drawn by the device. The Amps & Volts only define approximately when the fuse link will melt (blow). But as the fan gets dirty and older the LOAD it draws might get slightly higher. Enough to cause the fuse to slowly melt. So a small to 6, 8, or 10 Amp should work just fine. A wiring short will still cause the 10 Amp fuse to blow thereby keeping things safe. The manufacturer uses a fuse that fits in the space he has allocated & allows the unit to run continuously without blowing on a slight load.
But it is only a safety device to protect the device from internal shorts.
It stops a shorted motor or shorted internal wiring from getting too hot and possibly causing a fire.
But a 20 or 30Amp fuse would still blow if it is shorted.
For example...If the 5 A fuse keeps blowing then you could try say an 8 or 10 Amp fuse. If that blows then their is definitely a problem with the circuit. Don't put anything larger than 10 Amp in.
It then needs to be looked at by a service technician.
The voltage rating on a household fuse isn't that critical.
It's actually the wattage it takes to melt the fuse link. It's based on the mathematics of Ohms Law (Watts =Volts x Amps)
But thats another story....
You have a dead short across that fuse, The end opposite the battery will probably show a ground rather than a resistive load. You are going to have to find that short and fix it. A dead short on a 60 Amp fuse is a heavy load. That fuse is probably preventing a fire or melted harness wires.
You're quite right when a fuse blows there's a short. The short will be in either the power supply section, or the main amp. You will be looking for a semi-conductor of some sort. A multi meter on the ohm setting will track it down quick if it's a transistor. As the meter scale will be just like you have touched the probes together. Follow the circuit back from the fuse. Check any part that you suspect. If the sub uses an IC power amp, it could be a strong suspect!
i had the same problem with my dryer and i installed the wrong thermal fuse for gas dryer which calls for a pink thermal fuse in which i installed and it works fine also check the lint in the front of your dryer. also my dryer which is the same make as yours seems will run on the fluff cycle until i replaced the right thermal fuse. my dryer run exceptionally hot and eventally shut down and it only run on the fluff cycle for any length of time.
The output device on that channel will have blown. Look at the output device for that section by following the leads back from the plug, Anything with a heat sink on it is the best bet for the fault.
The protection circuit is most likely shutting down the amp because of heat. When the amp shuts down, does it feel hot? If not, then further investigation into the protection circuit will be necessary. This is not a problem that is likely to be diagnosed remotely as measurements will be required internally once the amp has stopped working. Check the sepaker wires for shorts that will cause the amp to work extra hard (generating extra heat). Other than that, you will need a servicer to diagnose further.