You nicely described removing the trim to reach the control board. How to determine whether the thermal fuse; where is it - can it be replaced? Also if the panel needs replacment to you need control panel, membrane and touchpad or is it typically the control panel cirquit board?
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Re: Whirlpool Oven Control Panel Thermal Fuse
If the display is totally out it is likely the thermal fuse this is located where the wire connectors plug into the board it looks like a small resistor in a platic shrinkwrap type sleeve. test it with a continuity meter.
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Whirlpools are notorious for tripping the thermal fuse on the back of the oven but there is a thermal fuse to the control board also on most electronic control models. It is a good chance you will need to replace both fuses.
I have a whirlpool double oven too and replaced the control board last year the problem started with a F06 code and would reset when I power cycled for a while until it completely quit. Changing the control board fixed that problem. I just used my self cleaning cycle recently and the oven went completely blank on the control panel. Power cycle didn't do any thing. I checked 2 of the thermal cutoff fuses that are shown on most of the parts listing but the problem was with one that is not shown. The link below will get you to the part I replaced it's the power feed to the control board. Turns out that the worst thing you can do to your oven is use the self clean feature. Oven Thermal Fuse
More that likely it is in the control board. There is a possibility that there is a thermal fuse on the back of the oven that has gone out. Some Kenmore ovens were made by Whirlpool and Whirlpool put a non resetable thermal fuse in the common line to the elements. You will have to pull it out far enough to remove the back panel and find the fuse. Make sure the power is off when doing this. I hope this helps.
Kitchenaid is made by Whirlpool. They have had a problem with the self clean getting too hot and shutting down the control board thermal fuse. If you can access the control board. (power off) there should be a small inline thermal fuse attached to a connector usually on the far right of the control board. It is encased in a clear plastic tube. Test this for continuity. If it is bad replace this fuse and the display should come back on. They also have a thermal fuse on the back of the oven that usually goes out at the same time. If the oven and broil don't work after fixing the control board thermal fuse. then you will have to pull the oven out enough to take the back panel off and check this fuse.
I printed down the installation sheets. I could not locate the thermal fuse on the control panel (which was the easiest to get to without removing the oven) so I went ahead and removed the oven. The upper and lower thermal fuses were fine. I put in back into the wall and my husband found the control panel thermal fuse--it was in-line--so we tested it and it was bad. I could not find anyone online that carried this fuse-or even knew the name of it. After much hard work we finally got the info off it--Microtemp KLBALY G4A00 TE 110C. Nowhere could I find a replacement except for something I am hoping is comparable online at Goodman (?). So while I am waiting for the fuse, I went to Radio Shack who had a thermal inline fuse rated at 128C for coffee pots and hair dryers. Also got some fully insulated crimp on connectors. Hooked it up and it works--havent cooked yet--to do cookies soon to test it. So far it seems like everything is running ok. I WILL NOT EVER USE THE AUTO CLEAN again. I dont get why the company has let it lie without helping unknowing consumers
Brain, check your thermal fuse first. You can do this at the board. lower oven, p26-2 orange or p26-4 red wire to red wire at the terminal block. Should show closed circuit. Upper oven, p18-4 red or p18-1 red to red wire at terminal block. Should read closed circuit. If open, there is your problem. Control transformer is as follows, primary windings, P16-5 red to p16-7 red, 75 to 95 ohms. Secondary windings, p16-2 blue to p16-3 blue , 2 to 4 ohms. I do believe your problem is in the thermal fuse on the back. Post back, Catriver
Yes actually i do.....
open the lower oven door
next to the hinges are 2 small phillips screws, securing two long metal side trim pieces. remove trim.
Exposes two more phillips screws
Control lifts up and off then
Make sure unit has been powered down !!!!!!!!!
If the old control is totally blank there is a thermal fuse that has gotten too hot.
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