Question about Heating & Cooling
I've had three HVAC's to test my furnace. Furnace often will not come on. It sometimes will run correctly after tapping on fan relay switch. One HVAC said I need a new sequencer. Another said to replace the fan relay switch, since it heats and runs after getting it going. I'm aty a loss, both money and patience. Who is right???
Seems the relay would be the cheaper of the two ideas to try. You should be a ble to check the relay more easily with a small light bulb and see if ti is working
Posted on Feb 17, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like you T-Stat is messed up. Look in your manual to see if there is set up instructions. If not I would change the T-Stat.
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
Having changed the fuse and breaker tell me there is a major short in you furnace. 240 volts is a lot of amperage and a very delicate job to attempt to help you directly. I have found that any intertherm dealer near you will be happy to help solve your problem. Yes, the sequencers are possible reason but 50 amps at 240 volts is what concerns me. Did your transformer burn out also?
Let me know what you think and if you would like, I will locate the correct source of help. Thanks, JT
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
How old is the intertherm. The old ones have fan limit switch and sometimes they stick. The new ones have a fan baord or time delay relay. They go bad from moisture and they just go bad sometimes. It sounds like you just have a shorted relay. If you think you can replace it you can get a relay at any parts store. Need the model number of unit. If not just call a service tech for free estimate. Russ
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
the control voltage for the sequencer should be 24 volts. that needs to be checked. also the sequencer is a switch that allows current to pass through them and are rated at particular volts and amps. If you are having and overcurrent situation, then it may burn them up. this one is tricky because and overcurrent should burn up the fusable links at your heating elements first. I would have these voltages checked and make sure only one sequencer per heating element. the low voltage side may be wired in series but the line voltage should be parallel or not sharing the 240 volts
Posted on Dec 15, 2009
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