Question about Thermador PGR366 Gas Kitchen Range

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2002 Thermador Gas Oven door - can't get back on after removal!

Last night I removed the door to our 4 burner Thermador oven to clean it by pulling firmly up and out. Now we cannot get it back in. Does anyone know how to do this. The hinges are 2 parts - the top one long with a curved hook on the end and the lower one is the hing, shorter.

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  • scootooter Jan 07, 2009

    I just purchased a new Thermador PRG366EG and we had to remove the door to move it in. Can't put the door back in. We pull down on the hinges, but while trying to put the door back in, the hinges retract. I am sure we are doing it wrong. The manual is of little help.
    Thanks for your help

  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2014

    remove door thermador gas oven


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You have to get the tension off of the hinge and it will drop right in. The spring loaded arm on the door needs to be drawn back until you can (depending on the style) either lock the u-arm into the notch on the other side of the hinge, or put a small bolt through the aligning holes in the side of the hinge. Once you get the arm straightened out a bit and relieve the spring pressure, you should be able to sit it right in there. Be careful though, that spring is strong.

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

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I self cleaned my oven last night and I noticed the electrical(clock and oven control panel) does not work. The burners work and the oven door does not open


Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...

Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..

Self Cleaning Oven Problem


Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks


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I went to clean my oven last night but my oven door wasn't latched. I started the cleaning and the word "door" flashed on the screen. Sure enough my door was not fully latched but the lock mechanism had...



self cleaning solution
  • 1 Remove oven racks and soak them in soapy water
  • 2 Turn on your automatic oven cleaner; this usually entails locking the door and turning the function switch to "clean."
  • 3 Let the oven do its work; it will heat for several hours, charring off baked-on food.
  • Fast Cleaning method
  • 1 Remove oven racks and place them in soapy water to soak.
  • 2 Preheat oven to 200 degrees.
  • 3 Turn the oven off and spray the inside with oven cleaner.
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  • hope this solution help?


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    Have xl44 GE Range /Oven--Oven and Broiler will not work. What do I replace?

    Date: 8/2/2010
    I have a GE XL44 oven. It's about ten years old. Oven would not turn on, so I replaced the igniter. The igniter has to light to "tell" the gas to come on. The part was $80 here in Oklahoma and it was super simple fix.
    Pull the oven out of it's place and unplug. You can shut off the gas if your buidler placed a shut off valve.
    1. The oven door pulls off without tools (I wish I knew this when I cleaned the oven last year) just open the door about three inches and pull toward your chin.
    2. Remove the lower storage drawer.
    3. Then remove the racks.
    4. Remove oven floor. The oven floor comes off with two screws in back, then lift it about an inch from the rear and you can pull the front up, clearing the lip. This is a good time to clean the ten year old food off the oven floor.
    5. You will see the aluminum burner. The lower ignighter is attached to the burner. The screws to the ignighter are at an angle, dont try to remove them with out taking the burner out. To remove the lower burner, get on your side and look way in the back of the lower drawer area. Remove the two screws at the very back where the oven drawer goes. You will also unplug the two (2) wires and the then the whole burner will lift up and come out, then you can remove the ignighter screws. Take the ignighter off and take it to a appliance repair store and they will sell you a new igniter. You can look on-line as well.
    The new part does not have the connectors like the original, Just cut the old wires in half and pig tail them to the new part. The new part will come with ceramic wire nuts. This whole install takes about an hour, and will save you a service call. It can seem like a hard fix, but once you dig into it, it's pretty easy. Everything goes back together in reverse. This would be a good time to change the light bulb while you are at it.
    These are the same type of ignighters that are on everything these days, hot water heaters, furnaces and they are the most likely to go out since they are used quite a bit.

    Jul 11, 2010 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

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    My oven won't heat

    First you will need to verify if the igniter is coming on for the oven burner when the oven is turned on. You will need to remove the oven bottom cover. There is usually two screws at the back bottom of the oven compartment that holds the bottom on. If there are no screws then it should just lift out. You may need to slide the bottom away from you then lift from the back. You will need to remove the oven racks to make enough room to lif the bottom out. Once removed you should be able to see the burner(you may also need to remove a heat spreader on the burner). Now turn on the oven and watch for the hot surface igniter to start to glow. If it does then you will need to make sure the gas orfice and venturri for the burner are not plugged with debris. You can use a small can of compressed air to try and dislodge any debris. Then give the oven gas valve a light tap with a screwdriver or a wrench. Oven gas valve is usually located at the bottom of the oven. Remove the bottom storage compartment to reach it. If you tap it and the burner comes on there may have just been debris in the valve and you may have cleared it. Then turn the oven off and back on completely several times. If the burner comes back on you should be ok if it does not then it could be a weak hot surface igniter or a bad olven gas control valve. Now going back to the start if the igniter does not come on you will need to verify if the igniter is getting voltage. If it is then test the igniter with a ohm meter. The reading should usually be between 500 to 700 ohms. A common problem with hot surface igniters is that they will crack. Examine the igniter for any visible cracks. If the igniter is not getting voltage then you will need to verify that all wires are properly connected and none have come loose. Look for any melted wires from the self cleaning process. You may need to dis-assemble the back of the range to see if any wires have come loose or melted. Now I need to stress to you that safety is important. Be very careful performing these procedures. You can get shocked or possible burned.

    Oct 06, 2009 | GE Spectra JGBP35 Gas Kitchen Range

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    I have a kitchenaid gas stove model #KGRT607. The oven does not reach desired temperature and there is a smell of gas when oven is turned on.

    I had what seems to be a similar problem with my range, which is a KitchenAid KGRT607HGL6. I'd turn it on, and sometimes it would light, sometimes not. If it didn't light, I'd start smelling gas and I'd have to ventilate the kitchen. If it did light, it took forever to heat up.

    That said, I have just finished doing the things I'll describe below, and the oven appears to be operating correctly now. I'm not going to go as far as to say this will work for you, and I'm not even sure which step was the key (maybe it was a combination of everything), but I'll tell you what I did.

    PLEASE be careful. Gas isn't something to be messed with. If you have any doubt, you're far better off calling a repairman than blowing the side of your house off, or worse, hurting yourself.

    It might help to download this parts list, and refer to page 9, so you know which parts I'm talking about:

    Here's what I did:

    1. Removed the racks from the oven.
    2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out).
    3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down.
    4. Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms.
    5. Shut the power off to the oven.
    6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back.
    7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust).
    8. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled).
    9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven.
    10. Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better.
    11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven.
    12. Turned the power back on to the oven.

    Then I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan and racks when it cools back down.

    My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.

    One other thing I did after the oven seemed to be working was to adjust the air shutter at the base of the burner tube, right where it meets that brass nut under the oven. I got that from Installation Step number 28 (page 6) on the following PDF:

    Like I said, I don't know if my solution will work for you. Try it at your own risk, and DON'T DO ANYTHING BUT SHUT OFF THE OVEN IF YOU SMELL GAS. :)

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    If you have converted the burners and the regulator, all you have left to do is the oven and broil burners. (for self clean oven model you posted under)
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    You did not post a complete model number, but this should help:
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    Oven shuts off

    Sounds like the spark module has been shorted out and quite possibly the main control board. Apptech.

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    you need to replace the bottom oven ignighter take the racks out then remove lower oven bottom take it out then remove flame spreader and ignighter will be on burner bar get replacement from appliance repair store take model number with you just because it glowes don't mean its good it should light withen 30 seconds

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