2002 Thermador Gas Oven door - can't get back on after removal!
Last night I removed the door to our 4 burner Thermador oven to clean it by pulling firmly up and out. Now we cannot get it back in. Does anyone know how to do this. The hinges are 2 parts - the top one long with a curved hook on the end and the lower one is the hing, shorter.
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Re: 2002 Thermador Gas Oven door - can't get back on...
You have to get the tension off of the hinge and it will drop right in. The spring loaded arm on the door needs to be drawn back until you can (depending on the style) either lock the u-arm into the notch on the other side of the hinge, or put a small bolt through the aligning holes in the side of the hinge. Once you get the arm straightened out a bit and relieve the spring pressure, you should be able to sit it right in there. Be careful though, that spring is strong.
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Step 1: Turn off the power supply, both gas and electric, to the range. Then remove the burner.
Step 2: Soak the burner in a solution of mild household detergent and water. Clean it with a soft cloth.
Step 3: Clear the gas ports with a pin or needle, rinse the burner, and let it dry. Caution: Do
not use a toothpick or matchstick to clean the gas ports. If the tip of
the wood gets stuck in the burner ports, it could cause a serious
Step 4: When the burner is completely dry, replace it, and turn on the power and the gas supply.
An oven that won't heat can occur for a variety of reasons.
I have a GE XL44 oven. It's about ten years old. Oven would not turn on, so I replaced the igniter. The igniter has to light to "tell" the gas to come on. The part was $80 here in Oklahoma and it was super simple fix.
Pull the oven out of it's place and unplug. You can shut off the gas if your buidler placed a shut off valve.
1. The oven door pulls off without tools (I wish I knew this when I cleaned the oven last year) just open the door about three inches and pull toward your chin.
2. Remove the lower storage drawer.
3. Then remove the racks.
4. Remove oven floor. The oven floor comes off with two screws in back, then lift it about an inch from the rear and you can pull the front up, clearing the lip. This is a good time to clean the ten year old food off the oven floor.
5. You will see the aluminum burner. The lower ignighter is attached to the burner. The screws to the ignighter are at an angle, dont try to remove them with out taking the burner out. To remove the lower burner, get on your side and look way in the back of the lower drawer area. Remove the two screws at the very back where the oven drawer goes. You will also unplug the two (2) wires and the then the whole burner will lift up and come out, then you can remove the ignighter screws. Take the ignighter off and take it to a appliance repair store and they will sell you a new igniter. You can look on-line as well.
The new part does not have the connectors like the original, Just cut the old wires in half and pig tail them to the new part. The new part will come with ceramic wire nuts. This whole install takes about an hour, and will save you a service call. It can seem like a hard fix, but once you dig into it, it's pretty easy. Everything goes back together in reverse. This would be a good time to change the light bulb while you are at it.
These are the same type of ignighters that are on everything these days, hot water heaters, furnaces and they are the most likely to go out since they are used quite a bit.
First you will need to verify if the igniter is coming on for the oven burner when the oven is turned on. You will need to remove the oven bottom cover. There is usually two screws at the back bottom of the oven compartment that holds the bottom on. If there are no screws then it should just lift out. You may need to slide the bottom away from you then lift from the back. You will need to remove the oven racks to make enough room to lif the bottom out. Once removed you should be able to see the burner(you may also need to remove a heat spreader on the burner). Now turn on the oven and watch for the hot surface igniter to start to glow. If it does then you will need to make sure the gas orfice and venturri for the burner are not plugged with debris. You can use a small can of compressed air to try and dislodge any debris. Then give the oven gas valve a light tap with a screwdriver or a wrench. Oven gas valve is usually located at the bottom of the oven. Remove the bottom storage compartment to reach it. If you tap it and the burner comes on there may have just been debris in the valve and you may have cleared it. Then turn the oven off and back on completely several times. If the burner comes back on you should be ok if it does not then it could be a weak hot surface igniter or a bad olven gas control valve. Now going back to the start if the igniter does not come on you will need to verify if the igniter is getting voltage. If it is then test the igniter with a ohm meter. The reading should usually be between 500 to 700 ohms. A common problem with hot surface igniters is that they will crack. Examine the igniter for any visible cracks. If the igniter is not getting voltage then you will need to verify that all wires are properly connected and none have come loose. Look for any melted wires from the self cleaning process. You may need to dis-assemble the back of the range to see if any wires have come loose or melted. Now I need to stress to you that safety is important. Be very careful performing these procedures. You can get shocked or possible burned.
If you have converted the burners and the regulator, all you have left to do is the oven and broil burners. (for self clean oven model you posted under)
Let's do the broil burner first. Open oven door and look up at the broil burner. At the back of the oven you see the tube that the gas flows through to get to the burner. At the base of this tube is an air shutter opening, and right there you will find a brass nut with a hole in the center of it (the burner's orifice). Use a 1/2 inch wrench to turn the nut three full revolutions clockwise looking at it from the burner side. It is easier to turn it twelve 1/4 revolutions.
Now, do the same to the main burner by removing the storage drawer, remove the one screw holding the metal plate so you can get at the base of the burner, and do the same to that orifice. Do not over tighten the orifices.
You did not post a complete model number, but this should help:
Take racks out of oven. Remove two screws at the very back of the oven bottom. Lift back side of bottom up and back a bit to remove oven floor. Remove flame spreader (one nut at center). ignitor is at the back left of burner, most likely a WB2X9154 (round style) ignitor. The entire burner can be removed rather easily at this point if you remove the two screws at the front and disconnect the ignitor wire (if you wish to have easier access to ignitor mounting screws.)
you need to replace the bottom oven ignighter take the racks out then remove lower oven bottom take it out then remove flame spreader and ignighter will be on burner bar get replacement from appliance repair store take model number with you just because it glowesdon't mean its good it should light withen 30 seconds
SOunds like you need to reset the oven high limit switch. It should be located behind the grille obave the oven opening and below the control panel. There should be about 4-6 screws you need to take out to remove the grille to gain access. Turn the power of to the oven at the circuit breaker, then rech in with a screwdriver and push down on the little red button in the center of the hig limit until it clicks. the high limit should be about as big around as a quarter and have a wire going into one side and out the other. If this keeps tripping, you may have a bad cooling fan. When you run a self clean it should also run a fan to cool the components. You should be able to feel a breeze coming out of the bottom of the oven when the cooling fan (not the convection fan ) is running. If this fan doesnt run, it will trip that switch. Hope this helps!