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My Whirlpool Gas Dryer (MDL # LGR7648KQ1) is not drying properly. The unit will heat up initially but after a while it will not ignite. I've taken it apart and run it without the drum. It ignited properly 3 times. With the unit reassembled the dryer will ignite on startup but not reignite through the cycle. I've pulled the schematics http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=699153&ModelNum=LGR7648KQ1&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=3&Selected=CDJISWIB&Position=0&mfg=Whirlpool&Type=&Mark=0 and just don't know what part I need. Thank you for your help.

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Be sure the vent is totaly clear.if the t-stat(s) heat up from lack of air flow the heat will not return until the t-stat is cool enough.Running without the drum in place will also heat up the sensor(s).This is a very common problem.

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

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WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR DRYER?

small_8_19.jpg For a detailed Dryer illustration, click below.

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Gas Whirlpool Style Version 1
redarrow.gif Gas Whirlpool Style Version 2
redarrow.gif Gas Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Gas GE Style
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 1
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 2
redarrow.gif Electric Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Electric GE Style
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

Gas dryers aren't very complicated. Here are some common symptoms you may experience with your dryer.

There's an error code on the digital display

It doesn't work at all
There's no heat
It won't tumble
Drying is too slow
It overheats
It seems to run forever
It's noisy
It won't start
The light doesn't work
My clothes smell bad!
My clothes are marked or torn
Hope this may help;


DON'T FORGET TO RATE;

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Need advice!


Okay...here's what you need to do to check out a gas dryer:

This advice is for problems associated with GAS DRYERS that RUN, but DO NOT HEAT. Ensure your dryer ducting is clear and **t clogged, first. ALL dryers require proper air flow in order to dry efficiently. If you do **t have any obvious vent duct obstructions you can follow these simple steps in identifying WHICH dryer heating circuit component may be defective BEFORE you have to disassemble anything. With the dryer plugged in and the gas supply turned on, follow these steps:

PUSH START – Listen for a “click”. You have to listen carefully to hear it. If ** “click” is heard when you push the start button, this is usually an indication of a bad RADIANT HEAT SENSOR.

PUSH START – “Clicking” sound is present, but dryer still does **t ignite. This is usually an indication of a bad IGNITER.

PUSH START – Dryer ignites, but heating circuits shut off after a short period of time. You attempt to restart, but the dryer makes a “buzzing” sound. This is usually an indication of a bad GAS VALVE SOLENOID.

Now, these initial symptom analyses will give you a rough idea of where to begin troubleshooting. These tips are NOT all inclusive, but suited for the more common problems encountered with dryer ignition problems. In theory the dryer ignition works like this – You push the start button and the igniter begins to glow. This igniter will produce a certain current potential (roughly 2.5 to 3.7 amps, depending on type of igniter) and the gas valve will open. Once the gas valve opens, you have ignition. This is a built in safety feature of the unit that prevents free flowing gas inside your home or garage without ignition. If you suspect a bad gas valve sole**id, the dryer usually has two of them. It is recommended that you replace BOTH of them at the same time. If you suspect the igniter to be bad, open the dryer e**ugh to see the burner assembly. There should be a visible glow from the igniter after you push start. If the igniter does NOT glow, replace it. If the igniter DOES glow, take a current reading to see if it is producing e**ugh current. Here are the two types of igniters are their specifications:

Carborundum – cylindrical in shape (2.5 to 3.0 amps)
Norton – Rectangular in shape (3.2 to 3.7 amps)

I hope this information is helpful. Post back if you have any questions/concerns.

PS From the initial indications you gave, it sounds like you may have a bad igniter.

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