Question about Cuisinart DCC-1200 Coffee Maker
Hi, it was working fine and now water evaporates more and drips less. I get no more than two cups or less after a long time.The self clean button keeps turning on. I tried cleaning it a few times but it didn't help...
I had the same problem. I read this article and was able to figure it out the probem: http://home.howstuffworks.com/coffee-maker.htm The one way valve and the heater pipe in the bottom of the unit are extremely calcified. I opened the bottom by removing the four little "security" screws. I used a little tiny flathead screwdriver because I didn't have the proper "star security screwdriver and it worked fine. Next, I removed the two orange hoses and soaked them in white vineager. The shorter intake hose contains the one way valve. make a note of which way you remove this hose 'cause it has to go back in in the same direction. Next I propped the unit on its side so that I could put some vineager in the heater pipe and let it soak in there. Next I blew into and sucked air out of the one way hose and then rinsed both hoses thoroughly. Then I used a little piece of a wire coat hanger to scrape out some of the junk in the heater pipe, (especially on the heat side) followed by a little pipe cleaner to get it extra clean. Then I put it all back together. Be carefull that the hoses are sealed ok. I actually cut a little off of them to get a new seal on the side that connects to the heater pipe. There wasn't much room for error though. After getting it all back together I ran a few full pots through it of 1/2 vineager 1/2 water and then a couple of just water. Probably a good time to change the water filter inside the unit too. Also, from now on I'll make sure to use the self cleaning mode more often. Good luck. Kevin
Posted on Nov 20, 2006
I agree with superkev2000's posted solution, and had to use the same trick to open the enclosure. BTW, I replaced those security Torx screws with Philips-heads of same
In my case, however, there was essentially zero flow of water from the tank to the heater, and this was traced to a plugged poppet valve in the silicone tubing running from the bottom of the tank to the heater.
I had no luck clearing the clog using a wire or compressed air, so after pulling the hose from the heater, I carefully worked the valve out of the hose by pinching the upstream
end of the hose, having noted the original distance between the valve and hose end.
Be careful removing the valve! There's 1/8" nylon ball that's held in a nylon cage by the hose, so be sure to catch it before it gets loose.
In my case, the valve and upstream end of the hose was TOTALLY clogged with a dark brown granular substance, which I took to be the activated carbon from a ruptured "water purifier" bag by the former user (I got mine used from the Goodwill store for $8).
Clearing the junk from the valve and the hose did take some effort, including a tubing
brush inserted from the tank end. Once the crud was cleared, water flowed freely
from the tank and out of the free end of the hose.
Reinsert the valve cage and ball in the hose, rounded end first, and work it back to its original location.
Preventative action: Don't use those pricey carbon filters! If you need filtered water,
get it from a separate source, like a Melitta or distilled from the store.
Posted on Jan 19, 2008
Removing the base and cleaning the tube w/ one way valve fixed the issue on my coffee maker.
- The screws holding down the bottom plate are a pain to get out... one actually stripped and I ended up ripping the plastic off of it (w/ the other 3 screws undone). Not pretty, but whatever.
Used a flat edge screw driver a little WD40 to pry off the tube w/ one way valve (one facing right when coffee maker upside down w/ pot opening facing you). Tube was glued on and part of the end tore off / stuck to metal; however, I was left w/ just enough to secure again.
Also, gave the coffee maker a few good shakes upside down and 3-4 coffee beans fell out... glad I did this in case these guys were to linger and reclog things.
Definitely won't be using that little charcoal filter anymore... I think it ruptured and also contributed to issue.
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
Thanks all for the great info.
I was having the same issues - 12 cups water, 10 cups coffee and lots of steam.
I removed the orange tubes where the check valve was. Tubes were clean, so I checked where the check-valve was located. Bingo! A piece of coffee bean was lodged between the little black ball preventing fast water flow.
Thanks again. :)
Posted on Jul 31, 2008
Mine quit working, too, I took it thoroughly apart, and THEN had the smart idea to look online for solutions. I was highly motivated after not getting any coffee this morning and swilling some of the nasty black dreck they call "coffee" at work. Here's what I found and how I fixed it.
I think my unit is about 4 years old, dosn't have an "autoclean" feature but looks identical.
1) Problem: A whole lot of steam, and not very much coffee-- what there was, tasted ok though. Problem caused by: using it for three years while completely ignoring the charcoal filter- either replace them once in a while or pull it out completely. My bolts were standard Torx, didn't have a center pin.
2) The wrench needed is a #10 torx key (similar to a hex key, but the corners are sharper. Any hardware store has them, either individually (cheap) or in a set.
3) the hose appears to be made of hi-temp silicone rubber, I removed mine without any damage by carefully pushing one part of the end back to the end of the tube with the flat side of a blade screwdriver. The tube with the check valve is the one on the right, when the unit is upside-down, with the pot opening toward the front. The tube is easily removed by squeezing together the two sides of the clamp, and the other end pulls off easily. Then the check valve can be pushed out with a screwdriver, and cleaned (watch out for the tiny check ball! about 1/8 inch dia.
4) Yep, that check-valve was thoroughly gunked up with charcoal from the filter! Somehow I didn't lose the ball. The "X" end of the checkvalve should face the underside of the unit (towards you when putting it back together. I took mine apart in the sink, and made sure to seal up the drain first.
Posted on May 15, 2008
Had the same issue this morning. Followed the above steps, blew out the orange tube and now the coffee maker works much better. Less steam, less noise and hotter coffee.
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
Great info from all. I found water leaking out of the bottom of the unit. Figured it must be a cracked hose. Could not get the bottom screws out until I found the post re: #10 torx. Since my screws have the center "security" post, I used a #9 torx and it worked. I am disappointed in you Cuisinart. These are great units that could yield years of service. Stop trying to make them disposable by installing shorter than necessary tubing. My tube with the check ball valve was cracked and when I carefully pulled it off, it left its end glued to the heating element. Barely enough to grab, but I pulled out the valve, turned it around and replaced the hose by opposite ends. This worked great. I would feel better if I could just replace the tubing with a longer piece. Perhaps a fuel line or heater hose from an automotive store would work. It could handle the high temps. Any suggestions?
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
All of the above were helpful. The solution from W5VSI
helped the most. I was getting flow in both directions from the check valve. After it was squeezed out of the tube, we found a small pice of yellow kitchen sponge stuck in it with a hardened wad of coffee behind it. Once this was cleared, it worked fine. As wraned, remember which way the check valve goes back in!
Posted on Apr 20, 2008
I applied the solution of opening the bottom of the coffee maker (mine is a cuisinart timer model without the grinder). When opening it, I removed the orange tubes from the ends which were NOT clamped and simply used a fine tip turkey baster and pushed vinegar and water mix through the tube and unjammed a LOT of coffee that had overflowed from above into the system. I made sure to hold the end of the tube over the sink, and push the fluid in through the end that is removed from where the filter goes,a s the one-way valve will allow the fluid in that direction. I just successfully "brewed" a pot of vinegar to ensure all is flowing well now. Thank you for the great tip!! I am so happy to now have to replace this unit as it costs about $70 new.
Posted on Dec 23, 2006
When I pulled mine apart, the ball fell out, but I don't know which end. Any suggestion as to which order? Is it:
In other words, if I put the ball between the valve ring and the heating element, are we sure it won't fall into the heating element and melt???
Posted on Apr 28, 2014
Thanks to all. Great info on the DCC-1200.
Mine had a piece plastic stuck in the one way valve.
Two things. The "tamper torx" screw can be removed with a mini flat blade screwdriver about 1/16" wide. Try a couple different sizes so you find the right one. Also, be extra careful when removing the hose from the heater element. The hose end seems to be glued to the aluminum. I ripped the hose, but still had enough left to reinstall it.
Posted on Apr 29, 2008
The posted solution worked. I was trying to pull the short orange tube off the heater element and it tore off, leaving 1/2 inch of tube glued to heater element. Luckily there was enough length the to put the tube back on the end of the heater element nad use the clap to re-attach. I scraped bunch of gunk from the check valve. It all went back together and did not leak. So a successful endeavor. Thanks Fixya.
Posted on Mar 03, 2008
Found that a #10 torx driver works for the screws, just not the one with the center post.....nice one cuisinart :<
Posted on Feb 17, 2008
Finally gave up trying to figure out why the DCC-1200 wouldn't pump water from the reserve to the coffee filter and google'd it.
The posted solution worked great.
The only problem I had was getting the four bottom screws out.
Got three with a modified screw driver but had to drill the fourth screw out. Replaced the original screws with three phillips head screws and everything works good now.
Since I don't use tap water (only filtered water) I don't think I need one of the expensive filters.
Posted on Jan 21, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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