Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Every wire has been checked. Every connection has been checked. Power to door latch, motor, ccu, mcu all have been checked.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes it may be in the MCU but I had one do this and it was in the CCU. Has it ever thrown a Fdl ??? Door lock code?? Thats another sign its in the CCU
Posted on Jan 04, 2008
earlier i just researched code "dl" (door lock), the washer would not start, door would not lock. this site under this code failure came up with a Wiz called "Coldcut".
I took the motherboard out and searched around for the crack with a microscope, I found that every one of the relays had bad solder joints with micro-cracks around the legs. This did not happen due to wear or vibration.This was a new replacement board. It was just a bad solder job on the factory wave solder machine. QC issue.
After re-soldering all the relays legs I have run the machine for a month now without any issue.
So there it is the final fix for the dreaded door lock F dl issue. and likely any other random error issue.
Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 25, 2008 the constant clicking and then F DL failure is symptom
If you want to test that the relays have a bad solder joint as I had found. after opening the machine top metal cover ( 3 screw in top rear), on the front of the CCU motherboard push up on one of the white connectors that has the black wires gently .you can safely do this as this is the low voltage area,
the machine will then gain control of door lock and the front buttons will now work.
stay away from the pink wires they are 110volts.
Yes resetting the power to the machine will sometimes work but the failure will reoccur randomly.
Just mark all the connectors location and remove the board open the plastic and remove the board. flip it over and add new solder to all the relays ( white square boxes) legs. Reassemble and rest assured you have fixed the issue.
BTW if you need to open the door manually, unplug unit , remove top washer cover, reach down (tight area) and below the front door latch you will feel a ring, push it down and the door will open. the same can be done from the bottom access panel but you will have a cramp in no time.
Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 26, 2008 yes those white boxes are the relays that control the door locks.
but while you are in there soldering there is another relay off to the side as I remember re-solder it too. I found that any relay on the board had micro-cracks around the legs.
Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 26, 2008 Also can you take a closeup of the bottom of the board before you fix the solder joints to show folks the issue before and after. Comment by Coldcut, posted on Jan 30, 2008 On a side note I have found that this same board is used in many brands of top loaders.and have of course the same issues.
I have notified the makers of this model what I found and they are forwarding it to their engineers . sic.
Posted on May 08, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet HT needs new CCU
The CCU is simple to install, and "yes" you can order it form the same website as the door latch assembly. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, you can find a replacement CCU under the "Control Panel" heading as item number 15 (part number 8182280). I just got a price listing from the Sears website and you're not going to be happy with the cost. Repairclinic.com carries it for less, but its still a bit pricey. I've seen these boards sell for as little as $85. It just doesn't make sense to me. Anyway, if you decide you want to replace the board, the following information is provided:
To replace the CCU, follow these steps:
1. Leave the washer UNPLUGGED & remove the top panel of the washer, by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off. The CCU is located in the middle, directly behind, and slightly above, the wash tub.
2. Swap all the connectors from the old CCU to the new one. The easiest way I have found to do this is to hold the new CCU in hand and swap the connectors one by one. Use care when handling the connector plugs and wires, they are fragile. There is enough enough slack to do this, but just barely.
3. Once the connectors are all moved to the new CCU, unmount the old unit and insert the new one. There are three tabbed clips that hold the CCU in place along the top. Just use a screwdriver and gently pry up to remove.
4. Insert new CCU (complete with connected wires) by snapping it in place in the mounting bracket.
NOTE: Another method of ensuring all the connectors are placed correctly, is to label each connector with tape or take a good clear photo using a digital camera.
I hope all this information helps you. Let me know if you require additonal assistance.
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
SOURCE: F 06 whirlpool duet washer
I had a similar problem.
The duet would always return an F06 error on the spin cycle(after about 1 min after doing the drain cycle). the motor would turn during the drain cycle for about 1 second and the other cycles acted somewhat normal.
Heres the solution:
The MCU uses the tachometer of the motor(rpm sensor) during the spin cycle only. It returns F06 because it can't read the rpm's. (for some reason it doesn't use it during normal cycles)
What I found out was that a resistor, believe it or not was bad. A 0.01 cent part to fix a 1000$ machine. (I wonder how much money has been wasted on this problem ;/)
The resistor is the first resistor that enters the mcu board on the tachometer. (I put the mcu back up before I could take a picture)
To find it, trace the circuit from the back side of the board where the tachometer wires come in at(its the 2 lower ones out of the 5 black + green(ground)). One of them will lead to a via(thing that goes to other side of board) which leads to a resistor labeled 471(470 ohms). On mine it looked slightly charred at the top almost like dirt and I didn't think about it but I finally put an ohm meter across it and it read open(should have read something).
After replacing it everything seems to have been working fine. What happened was that the tachometer wasn't being able to be read and hence the spin cycle wasn't able to start.
Replacing the MCU board would have solved it too but at a cost of several hundred(a total rip off specially for a 1 min fix if you have that problem).
Took me several hours to fix it so hopefully this will same a few others time. You can repay me by not buying from whirlpool!
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
No do the following:
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
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