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Heatline vizo 24 heating problem

Hi. have a small problem with this boiler. put the central heating on and the boiler fire's up fine. it will heat the water up to temp in the boiler (6 red lights lit)(takes about 50 or so seconds) then shuts off, and does not restart untill the water in the boiler has cooled right down (1 red light)(about 2 to 3 mins), feed pipe gets hot real quick but the boiler shuts down befor the water reaches the rads. the return of the central heating never get's warm. preasure is ok. 1.2bar cold riseing to 2.6bar when heating up. the nearest rad will get warm but never hot. the pump is working fine and circulation seams to be fine. so basicly it does not heat all the water up in the system left on for 2 hours and all the rabs will get touch warm. i am thinking it could be 1 a faulty Overheat Safety Thermostat.. 2 a faulty pcb.. 3 that the anti cycling time may be set incorrect. any advise you can give may help. thank you.

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  • Phillip Dann
    Phillip Dann Feb 15, 2012

    yep ok, have just noticed this is posted in the wrong place.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: LCD Philips 26pf8946 after about 45mins right hand 1/3rd picture not viewable

Hi Darnez,
It sound like to me that one of the boards that power the bad side of the screen is getting hot and quitting. The boards are not too expensive to replace but getting them is generally the big problem. ( At least for our company). The set would be worth tkaing to a local shop and have it looked at, but replacement costs are going down every day it seems.
Good Luck
I hope in some way this has helped
Ed Meshechek
NC Electronic
Mills, Wyoming
307-266-4675

Posted on May 28, 2008

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SOURCE: Red Blinking Light

These types of problems are allways hard to diagnose.. If you were to power on the set and preform tests, you would think that everything was fine until the moment it shuts off.

Look on the main power board and see if you cant find the thyristor (thermal switch), those are the things that when heated will cause the set to power off for safety reasons.. They are normally placed where ever a large heatsink is. That may give you a location as to the problem and you can put a meter around its 2 pins with the set off and unplugged a couple of min after failure, if its short (0 ohms) thats not the problem, if its open, it triggered the event.

Second, you can run the set for a while and check the voltages and Ve, Va, VCC, Vsetup etc and compair to the markings on the plasma PDP sticker. If you see one is falling down over time (volts will be lost as heat) then you can isolate that portion of the supply.

Third and allways the best way to go about these problems is buy a thermal gun and moniter various spots for heat.

Its just vary hard to say, resistance could be off somewhere, diodes could be overheating as well as fets and caps. Thats why a good thermal gun can point you to exactly where the problem is.

Hope this info helps, but I would suspect the problem is on the main power supply itself and not the y sus and z sus boards side boards.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

kma836
  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: boiler overheating

the problem there a relay stuck or thermostat bring on the pump & you can lower your high limit aquastat!! also the flow valves can bypass hot hot water risers time to put in a seperate water heater domestic coil are not energy efficient !!!! aquastat high limit set @ 180f deg low limit set @ 140f deg!!!
good luck!!! tim

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

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SOURCE: Combi Boiler - Running warm & then cold!? HELP!

mixing valve must be replaced

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

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SOURCE: sony bravia-flashing red light

I would guess your power supply board is slowly disintegrating. It is hard to tell what it is, until it finishes frying itself out. Plan on replacing the power board soon, 1-3 months maybe.

Posted on Nov 14, 2008

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