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Re: Keep poping the 40 amp fuse on the amps itself when...
Your units drawing too much current. it could be a wireing problem, a speaker problem, or the amp has a problem. the correct way to troubleshoot this would first do or have the amp bench tested. Or you can remove all the speakers and wires and turn up the amp. If the fuse still pops,have the amp serviced. Good Luck
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If it just started, you have an equipment or wiring problem. Check the wires first, that's easy. Otherwise, the amp may be bad, check the warranty if its new. Maybe you can get a replacement.
If it's always happened, some cars have an factory amp for the rear factory speakers hidden in the wiring. Sometimes between body panels. If you didn't bypass that, you're more than likely blowing out the new amp with too much power causing it to shut itself down. (protected mode or keep blowing fuses) Could be a blown speaker, bad ground, internal damage, RCA cable problem, the list goes on and on. Find out the preoutput voltage of your headunit and set the gain to what that is and nothing else LEAVE IT THERE, the gain isnt a volume knob for your amp its to get the amp and the radio on the same page (i.e. radios at 50% volume and so is the amp) if you turn it down too low that will make the amp very sensitive to volume adjustments and your amp will be at 100% while the raidos at like 50 or 75% and once you go past the 50 or 75 on the radio the amps going to keep trying to play higher even though its already maxing out which is going to cause it to clip and cause distortion untill it goes into protect mode. Hope this was helpfull to some one
It will help if you can identify the 40 Amp fuse that is being toasted when the key is turned.
I looked briefly at a fusebox diagram and found 3 circuits protected by a 40 Amp fuse. The Lamp circuit protects several circuits which have smaller rated fuses on each separate wire. The 40 Amp protection seems to be a safeguard if all the smaller circuits are active in total. Turning off the automatic headlights, should reduce power drain.
The next circuit is the Rear window defroster. Can easily pull 40 Amps, but once the 40 Amp fuse breaks, it should have no effect on the engine.
The last circuit, on the cars with Trailer Tow or Police package has a
40 Amp fuse on the Battery charge Relay. This is a remote possibility. But the engine should be able to run without an Alternator for several minutes using Battery power.
Have them check the fuel pressure. The Inertia switch could have tripped while the car was being repaired. It does not explain the wiring short, but can explain the no start condition.
Again, if the same 40 Amp circuit is overloading, identify the circuit with the fuse box diagram.
Fuses only blow if-Old,Overheated or you have a Short circuit.
That should be any easy fix,to the extent that there aren't many 40 Amp Fuses and you will need a wiring diagram to follow the problem from the fuse to the cause. If you know what fuse it is, you can guess,but I wouldn't recommend that,it will be time consuming and maybe costly ,if you don't have a test procedure to follow and throw parts at it.
Don't replace the fuse.Their expensive and will keep blowing.
Set your SAT receiver to full volume and use your Sony TV volume control as the master volume control. If you use an external surround sound amplifier do the same thing using the amplifiers volume control as the master volume control.
Consider that all source devices that have the ability to control their output volume will output what they call line level 0dB when the source device is set for maximum volume. If you set the source device to 1/4 volume your output to the amplifier may be around -25dB or lower. Introduce that low of an audio level to the amp and you will have to turn the amp up to half way or better causing the amp to amplify noise too.
When any amp blows fuses, this indicates that something is drawing too much current. The most common cause are components in the output stage and driver stages that have become defective.
On the amp that is blowing the fuse with the volume being turned up, this means that the output stage is partially working. The short or over-draw of current must be in the output stage, or what is loading it. It is possible in this case that a crossover in a speaker unit is defective, and is drawing too much current. I have seen this with especially sub-woofer crossovers, and the driver itself. Subs pull a lot of current because of the amount of drive power required to have very strong bass sounds. Other than that, this still does not rule out the possibility of the problem being defective components in the amplifier.
Speaker fuses are generally fast-blow styles 250 volt glass If an amp shuts down, with speakers connected, it sounds like one of the power supply lines does NOT like what it's "seeing" . Probably output transistors bad ( or module)
You had the settings set incorrectly and overdrove it. The voice coil leads are burn't open. If you look at the little flexible braids by the terminals I'll bet they are black/brown and maybe even burn't in half. It's toast.