I have taken the machine apart and removed the front half of the drum casing, but the drum does'nt want to come out of the rear half. Does any one know where i go from here as i really need to replace the bearings but have come to a grinding halt.
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Elements are usually at the back of the drum inside the housing that goes to the fan.
Usually, remove the top, remove the front, from the rear remove the panel that covers the rear drum bearing and unclip the bearing shaft. Remove the drive belt, and then pull the drum forward, up and out. You will see the element either directly behind the drum, or by removing any duct you see at the back.
If you go to YouTube, there is almost certainly a video for your specific dryer.
hi to do this you have to take whole drum out of case take pully off back the drum has screws around holding front and back together when its taken apart you have to knock shaft out from back the inner drum will come out then you can get to bearings fitted in hub these can be tight to get out
Your problem is a bearing of inner tub may also need spider assembly caused by overloading using non HE detergent 0r to much soap if noise gets worst it will take out seal and will start leaking thru-back side under stater motor that you call generator Remove stater drum by holding inner drum and taking rear nut of stater drum after removing drum UN plug wire connections remove 4 bolts holding coil . then remove front of washer remove all counter waits remove all bolts from outer tub remove shocks remove springs and drain and vent hoses pull out the whole basket from unit pull tub in half remove inner tube Pop out both bearings back and front replace with new bearing and seal reverse back together same way you take apart may take 2 people heavy stuff
You did not indicate whether this is a top or front load machine. But if it is a front, then the problem is due to a seal and bearing failure. Our machine did exactly as you discribed. When the machine is in the spin cycle, it would be extremely loud, due to the bearings failing and the grease would seep into the wash water and staining the clothes and towels. It can be fixed, but it requires that the machine to be taken completely apart, to remove the drum from the tub and the seal and bearings replaced.
You have a big problem here. It sounds like the bearings on the drum shaft are going. this is over $400 for the back half of the outer drum and you have to be a very good mechanic to get it all apart. I currently have mine apart for the same problem which I verified by opening the door of the washer and lifting the inner stainless steel drum up and down with the machine off, of course. The tub is supported by two large ball bearings on the shaft that is supporting the stainless steel drum, and they don't sell just the bearings and seal, only the back half of the drum. If it has gotten bad enough to rub against the front half of the outer tub, it will probably have to be replaced also, about $120. This was probably caused by overloading the washer or washing something that was unbalanced and heavy; this destroys the seal between the inner drum and the heavy bearings, also not available separately, and lets water into the bearings in the aft outer tub which support the inner tub shaft. If you want to try to take this apart to verify, try looking at Whirlpool consumer services technical education group presents #L-68, Job Aid Part No. 8178076. I found it online. It has detailed instructions how to take this machine apart if you are a technician or a talented amateur, as I am. Good luck.
If it is you have two options:
1 - Buy another washing machine
2 - DIY possible for about £30 with all the RIGHT TOOLS, £100 if doing it properly. And even with the right tools this will take you about 3 hours, probably more.
To replace the bearings you NEED to have:
1) The parts - The replacement bearing kit (£30) and hotpoint recommend a new spider (£65) as well.
2) A tool to push the drum shaft from the casing.
3) A tool to remove the beaings. It is possible to buy a new rear casing with the bearings already fitted for about £70.
4) Patience and a supply of tea!
1 - disconnect everything and I mean everything see number 2.
2 - remove the drum casing from the chasis
3 - take off the pulley wheel
4 - open the casing
5 - remove the drum from the casing. DO NOT USE A HAMMER as the shaft deforms very easily (good job I've a new "spider"!)
6 - fit new "spider" if using. Here is where you find the bolts are rusted completely solid from spider to drum and require drilling out.
7 - remove bearings from casing (hence the need for the bearing removal tool)
8 - fit new bearings and rebuild machine (hence the need for the bearing fitting tool)
However I stopped at number 7 due to not having the right tools and I have no idea how much the right tools cost.
Trust me, take option one! £100 is a third of a new machine!
The bearing in the duet is attached to the outer rear tub of the washer. You have to remove the whole rear half of the outer tub. Take off the back and you will see all the screws around the tub where they attach together. you have to buy the whole rear half too. They wont let you replace just the bearings.
This is Mogsey above, I have now renewed the bearings in my Zanussi Jetsystem 1600, Model FJD1666W. Had a man in to help. It really is a two man job and I put my back doing this with him. The bearings were much larger than previously encountered. Very! basically you have get out the residue water, release the door seal and (pipe attached) spit the m/c casing, unclip all hoses attached to drum, unclip all drum wiring ,remove belt (note position) remove motor &, lay to one side, withdraw nylon pins from shock absorbers, Look for and remove the little earthing cable set just inside the pulley rim. Carefully release drum/case supporting springs (mark positions top and bottom) and, drop drum/case onto some blocks and lift/pull/take out (really needs two people) (minding other modules). Split drum/case ring of bolts, remove front half (careful here not to damage the heater). take half containing drum outside, lay drum face down and use a drift to hit the socket headed screw securing pulley hard to shake up the taper. Remove this screw (needs good quality allen key) and use wedges to the force off the drum drive pulley. Support drum casing on blocks or put drum on its side, support the drum if on its side and use a heavy drift and hammer to knock through the drum spindle. Careful now to avoid grating hands on the sharp drum holes. With drum now removed place the casing drive end up (ensuring protuding heater is clear of the ground!) put a large bolt (head down) inside the first bearing and rest it on the edge of the inner bearing. Carefully working round the inner bearing edge use a hammer and the bolt head as a drift to knock out the inner (the larger of the two bearings and inturn the drum seal) (note seal postion). Turn over the casing and knock out the outer bearing from inside the drum casing. Clean all and check condition of spider/spindle & renew if damaged. Fit the new outer bearing then the new inner followed by the seal. Dig out the old and renew the (green) O ring seal between the drum casing halves. Replace all, but give a quick test run before replacing casing to ensure belt is positioned correctly. The job would have cost £115 which I think is well worth paying someone to do.
Sounds to me like the rear bearing is seized up. Seeing how you describe its been noisy for ages I would say the porblem is the bearing. Its not a easy jub to replace for a novice.The entire tub must be removed and taken apart to replace the rear bearing. To take the case apart its only the front panel with the door that that will come off. there should be a wire with a spring that holds the bellows to the door. remove that and the rest should come apart from the inside. Dont forget to disconect the dor switch.