Question about Makita Drills

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Why does my Auto Feed Screwdriver not screw deep enough?

Despite setting the bit to protrude at its maximum (7mm) the screws do not drill through plasterboard and into the timber flush, but stand proud. How can this be remedied?

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  • mrs_lindamar
    mrs_lindamar Feb 19, 2012

    Turned out that the machine was set on reverse! Every other drill or screwdriver I have used which has the "reverse" button on the handle like this, you press in the left hand part of the switch and pop out the right hand side to drive forward, and vice versa. With this Makita you need to press in the RIGHT hand side of the switch and pop out the left to drive forward. BEWARE - THE REVERSE SWITCH IS OPPOSITE WAY AROUND TO NORMAL DRILLS!

  • mrs_lindamar
    mrs_lindamar Feb 19, 2012

    Many thanks for the attempt to help me solve the problem - but it was something other than setting the depth wrong, etc.. Just a machine which has its reverse action opposite was to all other machines!



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  • Makita Master
  • 885 Answers

What model auto-feed screwdriver do you have? All of the auto-feed drivers I have worked on have an adjustable nose peice that has to be set to the length of the screw so they will start properly and drive correctly. They also have a fine tune adjustment wheel somehwere on the tool so you can set the screw to be anywhere from just below the surface (dimpled) or flush or slightly above the surface (proud). This is all in relation to the surface the nose peice is touching. The driver is designed to release the bit when the screw has reached the depth set by the adjustment wheel so it doesn't strip out the head of the screw. I don't know of any that would let you set it so the screw would go through the plasterboard (drywall) and end up flush in the wood.

Posted on Feb 17, 2012


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Hello, W/D here.

A very good question......A drill holds a bit and rotates it at a given speed. This speed can be variable, allowing the speed of the drill bit to be better matched to the material being drilled. The output from the drill motor goes directly to the chuck, and the power is directly applied to the drill bit. Some drills can generate a tremendous amount of direct torque, due to the nature of their gearing. Most of the better drills have planetary gears in them.
A driver rotates like a drill, but is designed to apply torque to a driving bit, and cause a fastener to be placed by the driver. The main difference between a drill and a driver is that a driver has an adjustable clutch, allowing the amount of torque being applied to a fitting to be preset. A good example of this would be for driving wood screws. You would dial in the torque setting that you want the driver to quit driving the screw. You don't want to drive the screw to China, you want to drive it flush. A maximum torque setting "locks" the clutch, and the fitting will be driven as far as it can go (This is about as close to being called a drill as a driver will ever get). A clutch setting midway might be just right for driving the same fitting into oak, and a setting at less than that might be just right for pine. The torque clutch effectively sets a kick out torque for the driver. When the torque applied matches the torque set on the driver, the clutch "slips", and no further driving action can occur.
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Best regards, --W/D--

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