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Yes there should be a defrost thermostat on your refrigerator what is the model number so I know what we're talking about do you see formation of frost on the rear wall of the freezer? Appliance 911 Sea Breeze
I'm here to help you out if you will answer my questions
Could you look for the model number that Sears uses on there brands the sell. Sounds like you have air restriction for one reason but Kenmore always uses a number like this 323.125489 as a model number.The first three numbers who really made the refrigerator and the other well I believe more confusion. See if you can locate those number and I will try to save you a service call, Sea Breeze
DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
Make sure the small door between the freezer and fridge is open. It should be at the top towards the rear on the wall between the fridge and freezer. Thermostat controls its open/closing. And make sure freezer is in fact freezing and you don't just have residual cold in it. Freezer should be about 0 dertees.
sounds like you may have gotten a refridgerant leak causing a low charge condition. some refridgerators have a evaporator fan if this quit working it will cause it to freeze up .thus the freezer does not use a fan and it will still get cold