My truck was parked that was just off the barge. I had friend to go pick it up by the dock but the parking brakes lever will not disengage upon lifting the disengage lever.. by the way it was bumped in the rear by a drunk lady while parked at the dock(probably kept her from entering into the river) now the rear axle might be tweaked going in. to pour some light to my situation i am contemplating to ship this truck to my village that is not connected to the road system in Alaska that might cost another $2500 which what it costed to bring it that far . I would like to have my truck functional before i put it on the barge.
This may sound like a silly answer, but, how often did you use your parking brake previously?
Parking brake cables tend to rust inside the sheath if they are not used very often.
When you apply the parking brake, you use a fair amount of physical force to engage the park brake.
If you do not use your parking brake very often, the inside of the cable may be rusted enough that when you release the park brake, the cable will not release (cable will not slide inside the sheath), as there is only the pressure of the brake shoe return springs disengage the park brake.
SOURCE: 1998 chevrolet cheyenne 2500 pick up truck
brake light switch or wire to it if not check fuses no power come out of switch that go to lock the shifter check it out HOPE IT HELP FIXYA OUR POST THANKS PIERRE
SOURCE: 1998 Chevorlet 2500 brake lights do not work cuise control
How about the brake switch above brake pedal? Any fusible links or relays that can be checked?
SOURCE: 1998 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 2wd pick up. Auto
Your shift linkage is binding up. You need to get a can of white lithium grease, go under your truck, and find where the linkage hooks to the side of the transmission. Every point that you see a connection, i.e., another rod hooking to it, or any pivot point, spray that spot. Follow it to the steering column, and grease those points as well. Work your gear shift through its range, and it should help greatly.
SOURCE: My 2000 cavalier 2.2L has intermintant warning
Check the front wiring harness in front of radiator for pinholes or cracks. Also, check the wires that run underneath the battery tray. Very common problem in sunfires and cavaliers.
SOURCE: Parking brake pedal goes easily
What year is the truck, is this a Chevy truck? Newer models use a small brake pads and drum for the parking brake on the left hand rear wheel. The wheel has to come off to inspect this. I suspect that your cable may be broken or stuck somewhere if the pedal won't come up and the brake stays on, but there may be an issue with the shoes and drum itself. First inspect the cable,If it is broken or bound,you need to free it up so the rear brakes are released. You can asjust this cable to loosen the brakes and see if this helps also. Check under the dash for any springs that may be hidden or broken. replace he cable and shoes if needed. The springs in the rear assembly may also be broken.
The main parking brake cable on a Chevy Silverado truck is connected to the parking brake pedal and is routed through to a bracket that connects the two rear cables. This main cable is also comprised of a front cable and an intermediate one. You must use precision and caution when replacing a parking brake cable, as it will greatly affect how the parking brake works. The process can also vary depending on the truck's exact year, so check with your mechanic. The Chevrolet Silverado's parking brakes are located on the vehicle's rear wheels. When the parking brake is engaged in the cab, a pair of "O" shaped brake shoes are forced against the inside of a drum by cable actuation. The drum, which is part of the wheel hub, spins around the shoes until the brake is engaged. Friction wears brake pad material away over time. If the parking brake in your Silverado feels weak or spongy, it's time to replace the shoes. Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel with a tire iron. Raise the rear of the vehicle with an automobile jack, and place it on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts, and remove the wheel. Remove the rear brake caliper mounting bolts from the top and bottom of the inside of the caliper with a socket wrench. Lift the caliper up and off the rotor, and suspend it from the frame with a piece of wire or bungee cord. Remove the bolts from the caliper mounting bracket with a socket wrench, and then remove the bracket from the hub. Pull the drum off the hub. Loosen the nuts on the parking brake equalizer to release tension in the cable. This is located underneath the vehicle on the driver's side. Use an adjustable wrench to turn the nuts counterclockwise. Return to the rear wheel. At the bottom of the parking brake shoe assembly, remove a screw with a slotted screwdriver; slide the shoes up and off the brake actuator and over the axle flange. Install the new shoes over the axle flange and onto the parking brake actuator. Seat the top ends of the shoes into the adjuster and the bottom ends into the tappet slots. Replace the screw at the bottom of the housing to secure the shoes. Adjust the shoes by turning the adjuster clockwise a half turn. Replace the drum over the shoes and hand-tighten a lug nut to temporarily secure it. Slowly turn the hub; adjust the shoes until they begin to drag against the drum. At this point, back the adjuster off until the movement is smooth. The actual distance between the shoes and drum should be 0.026 inch. Replace the caliper mounting bracket and rear brake caliper, and tighten the bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the wheel, and tighten the lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle to the ground, then tighten the lugs nuts evenly with a tire iron. Repeat the procedure on the next wheel. When the brakes on both wheels have been replaced, tighten the nuts on the parking brake equalizer to restore tension to the cable.
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