A friend of mine sold me the bike. I'm trying to give the bike an overhaul and thinking about converting it to a mountain bike. Never the less I'm definitely giving it a new paint job. I need to get the forks off to grease the bearings and they aren't like any bike I've messed with before. I'm very mechanically inclined so just point me in the right direction please.
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the bearing should be behind the rotor give these websites a try www.alldatadiy.com or www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your truck wish you the best of luck Michigan Man.
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I'm sorry but I don't have the specs on the quantity and type of fork oil for your year and model bike. I work on the older bikes that the dealers will no longer service. But, I can describe the difference between the "wet" and "dry" conditions of the fork assembly. If you take the front forks apart, clean them out, and put them back together with no oil in them, they are considered "dry". For a simple drain and refill type oil change on them where you don't get all the oil out of them, they are considered "wet". I hope this helps, You can call you local dealer's service department and they should tell you the quantity and viscosity of the oil that goes in the front forks on your machine. They'll tell you something like 6 ounces of "Type E" oil, for example. Harley-Davidson uses these types of specs to describe their oils. If you go to a website for fork oil, like PJ1, they may give a cross reference or equivalency chart for converting H-D "Type E" to their oil. I think that would be their 30 weight oil. If the front end seems too "stiff" with 30 weight, you can drop down to 20 weight. I think Honda makes a 25 weight but not sure. Your Harley won't mind the Honda oil. BG.
You didn't say which Dyna series bike you have but I'm going to say that Sportster specs are not the same as for a Dyna. If you think you have a gap between your triple tree and the steering head of the bike, something may not be assembled correctly. I'd take to a shop or a dealer and have them check the front end.
G'day. A couple of suggestions- Damage to the fork slider-chips or dings. Too much oil in the fork on re-assembly can cause the seal to go. Worn or loose fork bushes will flog the seal prematurely. When you transport the bike-if you don't use a seal saver can pop the seals.
So let me help with these.
Be sure that the fork slider is not scored,dinged or damaged on th surface.
A good double check of the oil quantity is to ensure that when you have re-filled the tube with oil & primed it(worked the air out of it), the oil level should be 100 to 110 mm from the top of the leg to the oil with the fork fully compressed. If the level is less than this-drop it to 100mm.
To check the fork bushes-try pull on the front forks front to back(wobble) & feel for looseness in the bushes.
And finally-When you transport the bike-put a chock(I use an empty 5ltr oil container-but you can buy propper chocks from the bike shop) in-between the forks at top of the front wheel . Now when you pull the front end down it will stop on the chock & stop the front forks being under excessive compression for extended periods-so it saves the fork springs from sacking out too. I hope this proves helpfull. Kind regards Andrew Porrelli
To change the fork oil, look down on the lower part of each fork leg just above the axle on the backside of each leg and you'll find an Allen plug or small screw. Take this screw out, hold the front brake and push down on the front forks. The fork oil will come out of the tube. Do both sides at the same time. Once you get the oil out of them, reinstall the drain plug. Then, take the large hex cap on ONE TUBE AT THE TIME and pour the correct amount of the correct fork oil into each tube. There is a specific amount of oil that must be poured into each leg. Since you simply drained your forks instead of disassembling them, you should use what is known as the "Wet" quantity of oil. I'm pretty sure your bike takes 9.0 ounces of oil in each leg. Call your local dealer and they'll tell you how much oil to put in. Your bike came from the factory with "Type E" oil in the forks. The viscosity of the oil determines the dampening effect of the forks. Heavier oil will stiffen the front forks, a lighter viscosity of oil will make the front end softer. You can check the Internet for fork oils and they should give you a comparison of what weight oil is equivalent to "Type E" oil. I think PJ 1's 30 weight oil is the same as type E Harley oil. Use only "fork oil" in your front forks as it has special "anti-foaming" agents in it. If the oil foams up, you'll lose the dampening effect in your forks.
A "hardtail" is a mountain bike that has a front suspension fork (like the one on the right) and no shock absorber in the back. Good hardtails are light, fast and responsive, and because of this they are good for climbing. Even the cheapest mountain bikes these days tend to have suspension forks. That's not necessarily a good thing, since most of the forks on cheap bikes are of poor quality and will probably need replacing before too long. The cheapest forks also tend to be sold only on new bikes, and not separately. Find out the make and model of the fork, and search around on the web for it. The price will give you an indication of the fork quality. Most decent bikes are sold with Rock Shox, Manitou, or Marzocchi. Marzocchi has been making forks longer than anyone and has probably the best reputation, but they tend to be expensive so you won't find them on anything but expensive bikes. Rock Shox and Manitou make lower-end (but reasonably good) forks. Other reputable brands such as Fox and Suntour make forks that may very well provide a good service life, but are not as well known for mountain bike forks. Replacement forks can be found at very low prices during sales and clearance events, so they can be upgraded later (sometimes at a bargain price). A "full suspension" bike has the front suspension fork and a rear suspension (like the bike on the right). These are highly recommended if you ride in a lot of rocks, as the rear suspension allows you to glide over rough terrain. They're also good for big jumps. The rear shock adds some complexity to the bike, and a good bit more weight at any give price point, plus there'll be a bit more maintenance. Plus, you'll pay a few hundred dollars more than a hardtail for a bike of otherwise equal components. Depending on your terrain, it might be worth it; riding a hardtail in big rocks can be brutal.
Think of any of the motocross bikes.You will fit the cr front ends but it is also best to change the brake master cyl. at the same time.Check the weight of the exchange bike to get it pretty close to yours.Spring sizes and weights will then give you an upgrade ride and you dont have to play around with them too much.Look in the 250 2 stroke range first.Plenty of them around and the weight is similar.Hope this helps you
Hi, Front end vibration can be caused by front rim/tire out of balance, worn wheel bearing(s), bent front rim, or fork misalignment. Since you recently had fork work done, I would first check the forks for proper alignment, then have the bike on a stand and spin the wheel to see if there is wobbling. To check for bearing wear, while the front is off the ground, try to rock the wheel from side to side. If you can feel or see movement, you will need new bearings. Hope this helps