The front assembly had fail.
the transparent plastic the rubber just after the chuck, and sort of a inside bearing will get out if I take off the chuck.
I have 2 model of ridgid impact both of them had the same problem.
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Re: ridgid impact r86063 and r86034
And Home Depot will not do anything for an item that is clearly made from a poor choice of materials?
If the local store to you will not stand behind those products, it is a bad public relations position. Assuming they were purchased through Home Depot, and not a reseller of reconditioned products. If they were reconditioned- you need to deal with Emerson Electric http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Power-Tools/ Just go to their contact page.
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What you are describing is one of the three resiliant rubber mounting pads and not a bearing. They are rubber to minimize vibration and the subsequent harmonic noise that would be generated had they been made of metal. Go to a local HVAC contractor and ask if you can peruse their discarded furnaces tossed out back for a replacement rubber. They, though not identical, all should be adaptable to fit your needs.
You say your fan won't rotate on 'low'...so the assumption is that the worn rubber is letting the fan blade gently rest on the side of the blower housing. But then the assumption is that the fan is capable of starting on a higher speed due to the increase hp rating of high speed. If that's the case, there should be a loud scraping, rattling noise coming from the blower during operation. If this is not the case, maybe consider trying to find the oil holes in the motor when you have the blower assembly out to repair the rubber. The motor may be 'oilable' or 'permanently lubricated' as evidenced by the appearance of two plugs near the top of the motor on the end bells....or not. The plugs will be usually yellow plastic or gray aluminum plugs and are removed with needle nose pliers.
I'm thinking you may have dry bearings within the motor itself. They are a permeable bronze bearing that rests in a 'wick' of felt saturated by lightweight oil. The oil literally permeates the bronze to maintain lubrication on the metal shaft as it rotates inside the bronze. When dry, sometimes the low starting torque of the PSC motor utilized in furnaces cannot start on low but will start on high. Then they fail altogether if the dry bearings are not lubricated.
The Makita BTD140 is an impact driver that has a hex-drive anvil and bit holder assembly, it does not have a keyless chuck accessory. There are some aftermarket chucks with hex shanks on them to put into impact drivers but I've seen very few that hold up.
The noise you have is armature failure from bearing failure or shortening out from burnt/ worn brushes. It may be poling out from failed bearings/bushes or you have a short in one of the bars in the commutator bars. Have an appliance electrician check it out.
The chucks on these drills are put on not only VERY tight but usually with some lok-tite to boost so they don't come off easy. In my shop we usually lock a 1/2" hex driver in the chuck and use a 1/2" impact wrench to knock them loose. It usually takes a few seconds to come loose. Another method is to lock the short end of a 1/2" allen wrench in the chuck so that it sticks straight up with the drill standing up. Then lay the drill on its side with the top at the edge of your bench and the allen wrench sticking over the side of the bench. NOTE: The chuck follows the lefty-loosey, righty-tighty rule, the chuck screw is reverse thread. Have someone firmly hold the drill and then hit the end of the allen wrench until the chuck comes loose. Once you break it free it will spin off easily. You do need to put the new one on with lok-tite and as tight as you possibly can then lok-tite the screw and tighten it as much as you can by hand.
Ridgid is sold exclusively at Home Depot. They should carry replacement chuck keys for it. If not they can order it for you. They also make an universal chuck key, looks like a X and has 4 of the most common sizes on it.
TAKE THE OUTER CHUCK PEICES OFF THE IMPACT!! THERE WILL BE A C-CLIP, WASHER, SPRING AND ONE OR TWO BALL BEARINGS AND THE OUTER HOUSING, IN THAT ORDER! WITH ALL OF THAT OFF, MOUNT THE ANVIL IN A BENCH VISE WITH BRASS JAWS OR BETWEEN TWO PEICES OF WOOD, UPSIDE DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE TRICK IS TO HAVE THE BIT FALL OUT OF THE CHUCK ONCE IT IS LOOSE!!!! NOW WITH IT MOUNTED IN THE VICE AND PRETTY TIGHT, TURN THE TOOL ON UNTILL IT FALLS OUT, IT WORKS GREAT IF HAVE DONE IT ABOUT 75 TIMES!! MOST PEOPLE THINK I'M A WIZARD!! BUT IT'S REALLY EASY. WITH IT MOUNTED SOLID IN THE VISE THE ANVIL HITS SO FAST AND HARD IT VIBRATES THE ANVIL, IF YOU DO NOT REMOVE THE BALL BEARINGS HOLDING THE BIT, YOU WILL BE DOING THIS ALL DAY. SOMETIMES, IN THE CHEAPER BITS IT WILL ROTATE AND GALL UP SO BAD THAT IT WILL NEVER COME OUT, IN THAT CASE YOUR BUYING A NEW ANVIL ASSY. JIMS TOOL SERVICE
ck the CV boot. if its broken you need a new cv axle, if its ok, jack up the car so both wheels are off the ground. either put the car in drive or just manually spin each front wheel while gripping the coil spring for the front strut. if you feel any (roughness) at all, that wheel bearing is bad. it should be smooth. if you have a bad one you will know it by this method. Even good mechanics sometimes replace the wrong bearing, but this 100% works every time.
I seem to have just solved this problem on my C522. On the back of the transfer belt assembly there is a black plastic container that is screwed on with 2 screws, 1 each side. Undo these and carefully lift it away from the transfer belt, this container has toner in it which can drop out. Turn this container over and there is a slot across the width of it with with a transparent rubber strip one side and a thin transparent plastic film the other side. These appear to clean the belt of excess toner. These strips on mine were very dirty and the container was quite full of toner. I held the container over a bin and carefully unscrewed the 10 or so screws which hold the two halves of it together. Emptied all the toner away and cleaned the rubber and plastic strips just using paper towel. Re-assemble and it should print cleanly again. I guess the other alternative would be to buy a new transfer belt for between £150 & £200. I've had this problem for quite a while and searched the net several times and not found anything. Good luck!