Question about Cuisinart CPT-90 Classic Style 4-Slice Toaster
Almost every time we try to use our toaster, the lock that keeps the toaster in the "toast" position (bread lowered and heating elements heating) doesn't work, so we have to hold the lever down by hand. On occasion, the lock works properly immediately after depressing the lever to start toasting. Sometimes, the lock will start to work after the toaster warms up a little, and will complete a toasting cycle properly. I opened up the toaster so check if there was anything obvious getting in the way of the lock, but didn't find a physical problem. The lock is kept locked by an electromagnet that looks like is controlled by a small circuit board. If the problem is with the circuit board, I would bet that it wouldn't be cost-effective to repair. Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated. Ed
I solved this problem on my Cuisinart CPT-90 Classic Style Toaster twice for two different problems. Of course: make sure it's UNPLUGGED while working on it and WATCH IT several times when testing so you can unplug it first and then extinguish it if it catches on fire.
1st time: There is a small solenoid mounted in the center of the circuit board. When the pop up mechanism is pressed down the circuit energizes and the the solenoid magnetically locks a plastic clip that holds the spring loaded pop up mechanism down until it's done toasting. The plastic mounts for the circuit board broke or weakened until the whole circuit board would tilt up and the solenoid clip would slip under the spring tension. I used a plastic tie-wrap to hold the circuit board firmly in place and that worked to this day.
2nd time : The four copper reed tabs can be miss aligned. If they
do not make contact, the circuit will not energize the solenoid.
The reason they warped was that, over time, the contacts build up carbon and have more resistance. Resistance equals heat. The
plastic base of the copper reed switch melted and misaligned the reeds. The second time I cleaned the reeds and bent them back into position, The third time the the plastic was to badly burned to be reliable. If I had cleaned the contacts once a year, it probably would still work now. I haven't found a place to buy a replacement reed switch so my toaster is toast. If anyone knows where to order them, I'd like to know. If the white plastic base of the reed switch is not melted, then they can be cleaned and aligned.
Note: When aligning the copper contacts, don't just hold down the pop up mechanism. The pop up mechanism will push lower than the position for toasting. Push it down and then hold the solenoid clip instead. Then the two center reeds will be at the correct spread.
Posted on Jun 26, 2010
I had the same problem with this model. Made sure it was unplugged, took the 4 screws out of the bottom as others did. Pulled off the handle for the toast push down and the knob for the darkness control (it took some effort but came off ok, if you can tilt the darkness knob opposite the number 1 it will come off easier, there's a hook-tab right at the 1 position).
My problem was with one of the points on the 4 copper tabs that come together as the toast is pushed down. The outer copper tab was slightly out of alignment when the toast was in it's latched position and broke the circuit making it never want to latch. I bent the problem one into alignment and solved the problem.
Posted on Jan 01, 2008
I had the same problem.
I opened up the toaster and found that the 4-copper connectors, that are straight up, had points between each pair. With the toaster unplugged; use a points file (I also used my wifes nail file) and polish the points so that there is good contact again. Then adjust the gap between each pair of the outer copper connectors so that they made good contact when the toast lever is pushed down. If you are very careful you can check the operation with the cover off; push the lever down, it will stay down and then push the "cancel" button and the lever will come up. (You will be able to see the spark as the points open.) Try it a few times. But don't try to adjust the gap between the connectors unless the toaster is unplugged. (Since this will happen again get a points file from a local auto parts store; tell them that it is for a 56' Chevy that still uses points in the distributor.)
Posted on Feb 23, 2009
I have the same problem and my circuit board is well glued in place, the copper tabs all make their connections so it must be a problem with the circuit board itself. Any other suggestions out there?
Posted on May 19, 2008
My problem was fixed by solution #2. After looking closely at the copper tabs and the contact points, the outer tab was indeed out of alignment. I had the toaster for 6 years, first problem ever with it. Thanks for re0alignment resolution.
Posted on May 03, 2008
Appreciate guest's solution that involved taking off the bottom of the toaster. I removed a total of 6 screws, still could not take the bottom off. Could not remove the plastic knobs. Seemed to be hung up on the control panel. So I replaced the bottom, turned it upright and then smacked it firmly against the table, hoping to get the circuit board in place again. It's working now, who knows why or for how long.
Posted on Dec 27, 2007
FIXED the Handle wont stay down problem. Unplug toaster, then remove 4 screws from bottom. pull off both platic knobs. lift off toaster top. at first i thought my electro switch was broken but i found out that the circuit board was loose. it was popping up and inturn that was breaking the magnetic field which was holding down the lever. Secure the board so there is little to zero upward movement. that should a fix. good luck. if you looking closely you can see the glue that was used by the factory to hold down that board. my glue was no longer good.
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
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