Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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1984 whirlpool everything works but the one piece agitator

How do you fix a 1 piece agitator that is not working

Posted by Anonymous on

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Jimster
  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: My whirlpool top loader won't agitate.

Ok, sorry it took so long to write.  You listed the washer as a Calypso, but it didnt look righ, so did some investigative work for you.  What your describing I believe, is that the agitator top half (or the auger as well them) is sitting still and the bottom half if moving.  During the wash cycle, the top half is just sitting still.  If this is wrong, please let me know.  If this is right, you have a sort of simple fix.  Remove the top cap of the auger, pry gently between the cap and the agitator, the plastic cap will come off.  When you remove the cap, you will see another cap (sometimes you do, sometimes you dont) it will be white or dirty clear in color if its there.  You can put your finger on the lips and lift it straight off.  Then you will see a cap with a bolt in the center.  Remove this bolt (7/16" with long extension).  the agitator dogs (Sears part #387091) 387091.jpg.  You should see these under that last cap tha had the bolt in it.  Remove the auger (just slide it up and off), remove the dog holding cap.  Remove the dogs, but be sure you remember the way they go back in.  Next is the tricky part.  Take the cap upside-down, and place it back in the auger.  Quickly turn it back over, making sure the ag dogs dont fall out of position (you will be hating me the first couple time, just keep at it), then, with a long pair of needle nose, place the bolt you removed back in the hole.  Take your extension with socket, hold the bolt firmly, and slide the auger back on to the top of the agitator.  Make sure the locks and stuff fit right between the two.  Tighten the bolt (just snug, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, you will split the cap).  If all goes well and right, you should be able to roll the auger one way and not the other.  If you need any further help, or need someone to yell at when the dogs keep falling out, give me a shout, and we'll help you along.  Good Luck!!!!!     Jim

Posted on Oct 24, 2007

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ngfam1
  • 639 Answers

SOURCE: My whirlpool top loader won't agitate.

Peace Friend,
ngfam1 At your service!

You did nothing to cause this! Things wear out! So is life!
Sounds like the coupling between the transmission and the agitator is broken!
How old is the washer?Sounds old!

If the appliance is 10 years old or more you it may not be advisable to put good money into bad!
New appliances are so much more efficient today that they can save you a lot of money in energy!!!!
Water,Electric and detergent! And put money back in your pocket!
The new appliance will pay for itself in only a few years!

Only a trained laundry tech can make the electronic diagnoses.

Below I referred you to a great service nation wide!

If none of these tasks remedy the problem then here is a good company that's found nation wide.
A&E Factory Service
A&E has schedulers available to take appointments 24/7
And they do warranty work too, for most manufactures!
1(800) 905-9505

You will be fine
Bless You ngafm1
PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OF

I

Posted on Aug 31, 2008

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: Top part of agitator stopped working

They make agitator repair kits with the reversing dog ears and retainers. The only item number that I can come up with is 2921. You can order them from most appliance parts dealers. You need to determine if you need the one for long cam or short cam. Hope this helped somewhat. Good luck.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

  • 256 Answers

SOURCE: The agitator in my Whirlpool Washer (Model

If this is a top load washer, you probably have an issue with the "drive coupling assembly" (took the place of a drive belt). Contact an appliance service company.

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

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1 Answer

The agitator on my Whirlpool (8280869) is rubbing/grinding. It seems the ratchet system is not catching on the center post when the agitator starts to spin. Can this be fixed?


On whirlpool/kenmore direct drive machines, the part you are referring to is the 'agitator dogs.' They are paisley shaped plastic pieces with teeth on the outer edge... Usually a 7/16 nut or a square plastic drive(1 inch socket adapter fits it perfectly) holds down the top half of the agitator. The pivot end of the 'dogs' must be inserted into their slot and should all face the same direction...

Apr 27, 2016 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

No longer agitates and spins it just hums


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Four possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest)


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.



Jul 01, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My 2090 Kenmore model washing machine (serial #cj3302826) is slow on the spin cycle. If any clothes are on the agitator,it will not spin. Remove clothes off and along the edge, it will spin. Also, does the...


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

As far as the agitator spinning during the spin cycle:

It's not supposed to. It may spin simply because of the oil in the gearcase turning the agitator shaft but it shouldn't be driven by the gearcase. See the following Whirlpool Service Manual on how the transmission / gearcase works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

What should happen is:

When the washer goes into spin mode, the gearcase reverses direction moving two plastic cams (Agitate Cams) together which push up against a spring which lifts the agitate shaft away from the agitate gear.

If the agitate cams (about $12.00) are worn (not necessarily broken) they may not lift the shaft high enough (about 1/8") so that the agitator will spin along with the drum.

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

If you suspect the agitate cams:

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)



May 18, 2010 | Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Washer Model 110.26712693 will not agitate. The machine will fill, drain, and cycle, but will NOT agitate.


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.26712693&pathTaken=partSearch

I assume that it will neither agitate NOR spin.

If that is the case, the problem points to the motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

If the Motor Coupler is fine, the problem may point to either the agitators themselves or the transmission.

First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.

Following is a description of how to take them out.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.


Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.

The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".

The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.

See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.

Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.

If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.

When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.





If the machine WILL spin but WON'T agitate, the problem points to the Agitate Spring in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for how the transmission works and what the spring and Agitate Cams do.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts List for top load, commercial washers although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf



Mar 26, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I've had this 70 series for about 10 years and


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Four possibilities:

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It's also possible that the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission is broken:


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.


If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch or Neutral Drain Assembly it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Since you may already have the transmission apart, these are an inexpensive and easy fix.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.


As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Mar 25, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Can't separate agitator. Have tried extreme force to separate the top from bottom. There must be some other way on this unit. Whirlpool Ultimate Care II. Have removed agitator but the two halves won't come...


There are small but strong plastic tabs that hold the 2 pieces of the dual action agitator together. Look into the center from the top with a light you will see them. If you got the agitator out. 1 bolt 7/16 socket holds it in and down, seperating the 2 pieces to get to the dogs should be easy.

Oct 10, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Agitator doesn't turn, very loud


Assuming that this is the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain two piece agitator model.

There is a Sears repair parts site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and a list of major sub-components will come up.

Sinceit isn't agitating (I assume not at all rather than just the top partof the agitator. If just the top part isn't turning then the easiestsolution is replacing the 4 "agitator dogs" ) the solution points to acouple of places.

1. The motor coupler may be broken.

This piece is a fail safe between the motor and transmission. and basically transmits power to the transmission.

This is a relatively easy fix for the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool washers.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Follow the instructions for removing the cabinet and pulling the pump, motor and motor mounting plate.

Thecoupler has two plastic pieces with three prongs each. In between isthe rubber coupler with six holes. If either of the plastic pieces orthe rubber coupler are damaged,

Pry the plastic pieces fromthe motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I'vefound that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefullyfit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and pressthem in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equallyaround the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefullyline up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to thethree un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right,the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console2.gif.

Sep 30, 2009 | Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Will not agitate. motor runs, no swish


Assuming that this is the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain two piece agitator model.

There is a Sears repair parts site:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and a list of major sub-components will come up.

Since it isn't agitating (I assume not at all rather than just the top part of the agitator. If just the top part isn't turning then the easiest solution is replacing the 4 "agitator dogs" ) the solution points to a couple of places.

1. The motor coupler may be broken.

This piece is a fail safe between the motor and transmission. and basically transmits power to the transmission.

This is a relatively easy fix for the basic Kenmore / Whirlpool washers.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

Follow the instructions for removing the cabinet and pulling the pump, motor and motor mounting plate.

The coupler has two plastic pieces with three prongs each. In between is the rubber coupler with six holes. If either of the plastic pieces or the rubber coupler are damaged,

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Sep 29, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Whirlpool GSQ9632LW0 problem


Hi there,

looks like the agitator dogs are broken. these are the pieces between the bearing and the top of the agitator. since this agitator is a 2 piece, you can just replace the dogs.

go to www.whirlpoolparts.ca and put in your model #. it will give you a parts breakdown.

hope this helps.

c

Sep 23, 2008 | Whirlpool AWM6120 Front Load Washer

4 Answers

My whirlpool top loader won't agitate.


Sounds like what you have is a dual agitator, bottom moves back and forth in wash, top acts like a screw pulling clothes down to the bottom of the tub. If so, the agitator dogs are bad, to get to them, pop off the cap on top of the agitator, then reach down inside and pull up a cap in there, then use a socket (I forget the size) and a long extension to unbolt the agitator and pull it out, the dogs are located between the top and bottom sections. They are slightly curved rubbery plastic pieces, 4 total. About an 1 1/2" or so long, one end fits into a hole on the inner part of the agitator and the other end is ribbed to catch the outer part of the agitator during the wash stroke.

Nov 08, 2007 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

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