Question about LG Refrigerators
FREEZER WORKING OK, BUT THE FRIDGE IS FREEZING UP. i HAVE THE FREEZER ON HAS LOW AS POSSIBLE AND THAT'S OK IT'S JUST THE FRIDGE
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is usually caused by a dirty condenser coil or a stalled condenser fan.
Remove the cover from the rear of the fridge and see if the fan is running. If not, make sure nothing is stuck in the blades keeping it from turning. If it turns freely you probably need a new fan motor but you would need to check the voltage to be sure.
Post back if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 18, 2007
Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on May 27, 2009
SOURCE: freezer cool fridge not
Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck! P.s Please don't forget to rate my solution Thanks! Mike
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
with any luck this is you overload and relay
it is the plug on the actual compressor, this is very easy to replace, if you replace it and it does exactly the same thing its your internal relay and your compressor is done....
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
Testimonial: "thank you...I removed the relay/regulator to find it rattled and found burnt marks inside. I found them online, am waiting its arrival now."
LG 620 RW water in fridge below crisper problem.
The issue is most likely a blocked condensate drain line at the back of the freezer. The purpose of the drain line is to take away the water from the end of the defrost cycle.
Task time, approx 2 hours.
Empty out the fridge, let warm up & remove the back panel of the freezer. There is a 3" x 4" snap in door at the upper left corner of the back panel with a round snap in cover. Remove the snap in cover & remove the screw to take out the 3" X 4" panel, gently pull out the back panel from left to right. There is also an elect connector to the fan on the upper right corner, unclip this. The drain is at the back in the centre, it will likley be blocked with 2 or 3" of ice. You can let it melt or sparingly use a hair dryer on it, do not over heat or damage the coil/fin assembly. The fridge will continue to drip water for a day after the drain is cleared if the water has rin inside of it for any period of time.
There is also a fan/control assembly in the refrigerator section held up by 2 screws & snaps. This should be dropped down to ensure there is not ice buildup in the vents to the freezer or water inside it.
Finally, make sure you run warm water down the freezer drain tube to the pan underneath the fridge, this is accessible by taking of the rear compresser cover behine the frigde. Ensure the lower drain line is clear & back on the locater peg.
Of course if you want to do this the easy, & have the time, leave the fridge open, unplugged for 2-3 days & the ice will all melt.
Posted on Jun 19, 2010
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When the freezer section gets cold and reaches
its required cooling temperature, after that the frost on freezer section
starts defrosting and the cooling fan in the freezer section blows this cool
air from freezer to fridge. But if the defrost cycle does not start then over
ice will get collected on freezer ventilations and that will block the
air passing section from freezer to fridge, so the freezer gets cool but fridge
section does not cool.Its defrost problem. Try
manual defrost by unplugging the refrigerator from main power outlet
for 4 hours then reconnect it and check, if the same problem is noticed again,.
If yes then its defrost board problem. The defrost board located in the back of
fridge section. You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com or from
online sears part site. ------------- Thank you.
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