Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I don't know the specific machine, but this is a fairly generic problem, so I hope the following helps: The empty pump cycle is a timed operation, the fact that there is still water in the drum after the time allowed for the pump to drain it has run out means that the water isn't clearing out fast enough.
In order of probability, the problem is usually caused by:
1. A blocked filter
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain
3. A Faulty pump
1 Blocked Filter: Many machines have a small door in the bottom of the chassis. Behind this door (Usually about 5 inches square) is a filter, which will usually unscrew. In this filter you will find fluff, string, coins, the odd small sock and all sorts of nasty stuff if you haven't had the filter out before. If the filter is blocked then the pump is having to draw water through all that gunk and it will run out of time and leave water in the drum. Clean the filter in the sink, pocket the coins you find and make a note to clean it regularly in the future Most manufactures will suggest you check it every 2 months or so, depends how often you are using the machine of course.
Unfortunately, other machines do not have filters so easily accessible. If there is no door or obvious access to the filter, some manufacturers put a trap in the rubber hose that feeds the pump. The pain here is that the access to these traps is gained by dragging the bachine out of its place under the work surface and tipping it on to its back. Track the waste pipe back to locate the pump. On the other side of the pump will be a thicker (usually black rubber) pipe and built into this pipe is usually a little bucket that stuff can fall into before it gets to the pump. You can usually squeeze the pipe and feel if there is stuff in it. If there is, then depending on the machine again, some of these traps will have a plug in the bottom that is held in place by a spring clip (Pliers to compress the spring to get it off) or a screw clip (Unscrew with a screwdriver). Enev if there is no trap as such, squeeze the rubber delivery pipe and feel for obstructions (Often a sock!), if necessary, disconnect the pipe from the pump to gain access to the blockage. WARNING!: Never tip the machine all the way onto its back, you may cause a water leak inside the machine. ALWAYS tip BACKWARDS, to the control panel for the machine is pointing up to avoid water getting to the control panel. I would recommend butting a chair behind the machine as you tip it, so the top back of the machine comes to rest on the seat and the machine is at about 45 degrees. this will give you access to underneath without a leak and make is a lot easier to tip it back on to its feet again afterwards.
2. An obstruction in the empty pipe or drain: Start at the point that the pipe enters the household drain pipe, pull out the empty pipe and check that water will flow freely into the drain (Stuffing the garden hose down there and turning it on (but not TOO FAST) will usually demonstrate if there is a blockage. If this is free, check the pipe that runs from the pump to the drain (This will need the machine tipping as described above, and possibly the pipe removing from the pump to check it.
3. A Faulty Pump:If you have done everything described so far, then you have checked for obstructions in the pipe leading to the pump, the pipe leading away and you have cleaned out any filters or traps... If you still have a problem, you have a faulty pump. This is highly unlikely. These pumps have induction motors (no brushes to fail) and in my experience, they either work, or they don't. They very seldom "work a bit". If SOME water is being pumped (check by putting the empty hose in the sink and watching) then you really need to double check your work before replacing the pump. Good news is, if you do have to they are usually reasonably priced.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these: Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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