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The unit may simply has a calcium scale build up and it's blocking the water passage. To clean it, empty in water remaining in the tank. Mix a 50/50 solution of White Vinegar and Bottled Distilled Water and fill the tank. Allow it to soak for at least one hour, then turn the unit ON. Place you hand in front of the misting nozzle to see if it's working. If you don't feel any mist, turn the unit OFF and allow it sit over night. If you do feel mist, allow it to run until the tank is 3/4's empty Turn the unit OFF, pour out the remaining solution and refill with Bottled Distilled Water. Run the humidifier until it's empty. This will flush the system entirely. In the future, I would recommend you use Bottled Distilled Water, instead of Tap Water. If you do, you won't have to descale the unit any more.
Noodles, it sounds like the float valve inside the water reservoir is stuck in the down position. Turn the water line ON/OFF valve to the humidifier OFF. Open the top of the reservoir and you will see the float valve. Gently, lift it up, to see if it will remain at the top of the water level, which left in the reservoir. It it doesn't, then the float needs to be replaced. In the mean time, leave the water line ON/OFF Valve OFF.
Hope this helps you troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.
The screw does turn and will open the valve, take the hex nut off and turn the screw to see if water leaks between the valve portion and the hexnut housing. They used that same valve on many models, including the newer models. Make sure you are getting water to the valve.
hook one wire to the hum screw on the board if there is not a hum screw hook it to the green screw,go up to the humidifier then back down to the common screw on the board that should make the unit only come on when the fan is running. it sounds like the humidistat is not working correctly
First check to see if the two water sensing probes have been cleaned.After cleaning, if the problem still persists, try the following.
There is a small thermostat switch that sits on the heating coil underneath.This thermostat is designed to prevent the coil from overheating when no water is present.What probably has happened is the switch is doing what is designed to do but has become defective and is opening and closing at a lower temperature.So what is happening is the red light reset indicator will come on because this switch opens, the coil starts to cool and the switch closes and the light goes off.Because it is defective, this is occurring when it shouldn’t, causing this maddening on/off cycle.
Fortunately, this sensor is easy to replace if you’re handy.Make sure you unplug the humidifier from power.Turn it over, remove six screws, and carefully lift the lid.Look toward the heating element and you will see a small button type device with two wires plugged into it and is attached with two screws off to the side of the element.This particular thermostat is obsolete and very difficult to find.However, there is an excellent substitute made by Stancor for around $5.00.Their part number is STO-325.
Remove the two screws and lift off the thermostat and slide the wire connectors off.Simply reverse the process for installation and be careful to replace the bottom lid, being careful not to crimp the wiring.
I picked this up a couple days ago at the Salvation Army, 3 bucks. I also had way too much damp coming out, saturating anything near.
I read through the comments, and one folk said they uncovered the spaz unit and tightened the screw they found there, to no avail. They asked if they should reopen and loosened the screw ...
Which I did. Took me a while, and maybe those who aren't used to investigating the inner workings shouldn't try it unless they're willing to make a mistake and throw it away, but ...
I loosened the screw. Not sure if it was a quarter turn or a half turn; I wanted to do more and have learned many times that "more" is not "better."
I have a cardboard box in front of the unit for hours now, and it is not saturated.
The factory setting, whether it be for all or some, is too wet. Loosening the screw that shows through the computer board has, for me, made the unit more tolerable. Takes an eyeglass-screwdriver to get it done, but if'n ya has the general know-how to investigate things, maybe it'll work for you.