Question about Bosch 24 in. SHU53 Built-in Dishwasher
SOURCE: Bosch dishwasher SHU9922UC
Sounds like you already know how to fix it. The inlet valve is only held closed by water pressure...if you have low water pressure it could be causing this. Its more likely just a bad fill valve though. The water inlet valve is accessed by removinf the lower kickplate and the sheild behind that. Then all you have to do is remove the water line from the valve, remove the 2 screws holding it and pull it out far enough to disconnect the 2(possibly 3) wires and the fill hose. Make sure to mark where your wires go, if you hook it up wrong it could continue to fill and overflow. Hope this helps!
Posted on Feb 02, 2007
SOURCE: No water in dishwasher
I have a SHU9922UC and the control panel has just died for the third time in 10 months. Its symptom is a dishwasher that runs and runs but never fills. I was told that this is an issue with this model. When they pull the control panel you can see a "burnt" area on the board. at $150 a repair, I'm getting a new dishwasher. It works great until the control panel wigs out.
Posted on Apr 06, 2007
This is such an easy repair, you'll be shocked and surprised! The reason this is happening is that the computer or timer has detected a "flood" condition and has permanently energized the drain pump to clear the "flood".
What you'll need to fix it...
1.) Shop-Vac (for vacuuming water) with a crevice tool (like one of these)
2.) T20 Torx bit with a driver. Torx sizing here. (You can get a set at Home Depot or Lowes)
All you gotta do now is get down on the floor and remove the kick panel. Then remove the screws holding the water valve and lift it up out of its' plastic holding. Now your shop-vac w/ crevice tool can be used. Stick the crevice tool in there (about 10") and vacuum up all the water that's been trapped in the basin. (you may need a flashlight to see what's going on back in there...) After the water is gone, your DW will work fine.
Here's how it works... About 10" behind the inlet valve is a "float" made of styrofoam. When water gets into the basin, the float rises and eventually trips a "flood condition" switch. This switch shuts the unit down and will only allow the drain pump to operate. So what you want to do is get the water out of the basin.
There may be a reason for the basin flooding, though. Suds (caused by too much (or the wrong) detergent), an actual water leak from the valve, etc... So after you get the water out of there and the unit is working again, you may want to monitor it (like, only run it when someone is home) for a while just to make sure that a real flood does not occur.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
The flood switch is tripped. This is located under the unit. Unplug or flip the breaker to the dishwasher, take off the black kick plate under the door, 2 screws, and you will see the white plastic "pan". The flood switch is located where you can't really see it but it is on the left hand side wall and is made of styrofoam. The best thing to do is to put some rags in the pan, this is not easy because there is little room to put them, and soak-up the water that has filled the pan. Eventually you will get enough water out that the float will deactivate the switch. What you hear "running" when you turn it on is actually the drain pump, it get activated when the flood switch is tripped.
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description "dishwasher when turned on sounds like drain pump is running but water will not enter dishwasher" , it sounds like the emergency overfill switch has been actuated. Here`s what to do and what to look for.
**Turn off the breaker/power at your homes service panel...safety first of course**
Remove the the bottom panel, referred to as a toe panel or kick-plate, essentially the lower service panel shown here...
When you remove the outer toe panel, there will be another small panel which is non finished steel, I find removing that allows much easier access as well.
This panel can be somewhat more difficult as it secures the plastic channeling for the wires but if you observe closely you`ll see it does "snap" out of place...carefully.
Once the panel has been removed check for any obvious signs of water in the base ( the unit has a plastic overfill basin with a float which will actuate an emergency overfill cycle, hence the drain pump runs & runs )
If you don`t see any water in this area, direct your attention to the left in this basin/bottom ( from the front to be sure ) and you should see a device which will resemble a "stir stick" you`d use for coffee etc. it will be a red in color stick.
With the aid of a wooden spoon, long screwdriver, or if you can manage to reach by hand, lift it up and down gently and listen for a "click".
If there is no sign of water and you can here the "click" when lifting up and down the float actuater ( red stick ) then turn the machine back on and give it a try before reassembling the toe panel so you can observe for any possible leaks.
Let me know what you find. This is the most likely cause of the symptom you are describing so we can move forward if this doesn`t resolve the issue.
Thanks for choosing FixYa. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
SOURCE: My Bosch dishwasher runs long.
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description I'd say the issue actually with the control...unfortunately.
**B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the model & serial number, you can check with yours, though many not included here still suffers from the same problem...you'll need the serial number too. Here`s the link if you want to see for yourself **
As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).
If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.
It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.
The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,
**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**
This ones new, but it's where to look...
...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...or takes a long time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning and obviously no "extra" heat ( aside from the water inlet temp. ) as a result.
You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**
**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**
If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.
Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.
Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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