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Anonymous Posted on Aug 05, 2017

Kenmore 790 no power to bake ignitor

My oven will not light. I swapped the bake ignitor with the briol ignitor and it still did not work (oven one worked when connected to the broil circuit). I put a volt meter on the bake circuit and there was no power to the bake ignitor. Also, when I try a self-clean cycle, it waits about 10 seconds and quits (no error code). Is there a circuit board issue? Is it possible to fix by replacing a part?

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 833 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 12, 2007

SOURCE: Oven will not bake or broil

bann...why did you replace the element? It is possible that the relay or the control circuit were the problems and still are. The hi limit switch is a temperature 'box' which is designed to open the circuit in case of overheating. Rarely a problem. First, these units are 3 wire units. That means 220 volts ... two breakers. They may be part of a linked unit or separate. Turn them BOTH off and then on. Do all of your burners heat properly on high? If you have a voltage tester, you can test to see if the voltage is there. Unplug the unit. The vertical slot is neutral. Each of the other slots with the neutral should light the tester. If not, your problem is outside the stove.

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Anonymous

  • 324 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 05, 2008

SOURCE: Broil works but Bake does not

change the bake ignitor?

Fred Yearian

  • 5603 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 27, 2009

SOURCE: Kenmore model 790-96614407 oven stopped heating

Check that you have not lost one side of the 240 volt line at the receptacle. This would be MOST noticeable on the oven but would also reduce the cooktop.

Beyond that, the thermostat and oven timer are suspect.

Inadvertently setting a delayed start of the oven could cause it of course, but that would be obvious.

Douglas Jensen

  • 494 Answers
  • Posted on May 17, 2010

SOURCE: GE profile spectra gas stove displays 'locked

You might try to reset the unit by unplugging it. Plug it back in, reset the clock & try it again. Hope that helps.

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 21, 2010

SOURCE: the oven will not heat past 100 degrees on the

repace the oven sensor

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Kenmore electric range model 790 oven stopped functioning, both broiler and bake. however, oven light still comes on.

I believe there is a thermal fuse (also called a TCO or Thermal Cut-Out) located either on the back of the oven, or between the top of the oven and the cooktop that has opened up. Did this happen after running a self-clean cycle?

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

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if you have no bake most likely you need to change out the ignitor,next time send the model number,if it's a stove with the burners on top open the utility draw and on the left or right side on the frame you'll see the model number
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I have a kenmore self cleaning gas oven. the pilots light, the broil kicks on, but preheat won't start. what can i do?

Ok well heres the deal. I'm assuming that because this is a self cleaning oven then its probably fairly new in which case you probably don't have actual pilot lights on there but "glowbars" which are called ignitors. If this is the case, and you can see your ignitors for the bake and broil both glowing then chances are you have a weak bake ignitor. If the ignitor is not getting hot enough, then it will not send enough current to the gas valve to energize it (allowing it to open and let gas in). If its not glowing at all you can just get a voltage detector (you can buy them at walmart for about 10 bucks) turn the oven on and use your wand to see if the ignitor is getting power. If it is then its going to actually be open or shorted.

Overall deal is that 95/100 times if you have a gas oven with ignitors and its not baking its and bad or weak ignitor. They cost about 60-90 bucks.

If your oven does indeed have a pilot light then you will have a bad thermocouple or possibly obstructed burner tube.

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I am not sure what model or make you have to be precise but replacing the oven ignitor is relatively simple. Gain access to the bake burner area. There are two mounting screws which secure the old ignitor to the bake burner. Remove these screws and then follow the wires to their respective connections. Make the connection change and mount your new ignitor. If I can help further, I am here...


Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion
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Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.
Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

Good luck!
PS go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number for the exact replacement part number.
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eerb, most likley your ignitor failed. When you turn the oven on to bake you should hear a relay click on the electronic control (clock). You can do a couple of things here. If you have a ohmmeter the ignitor should ohm out at between 50 and 150 ohms. You can physically swap out the bake and broil ignitors to see if the ignitor comes on in bake. Or you can swap the bake and broil wires on the board. They should be marked BA and BR. This way when you turn on bake, the broil ignitor should glow and verify you have power going to it. Carefull when testing, be sure to kill power to the range before any changes. Catriver...post back
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