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Accidental short/spark - what part did i ruin?

I accidentally connected a hot wire on the thermostat-controlled switch with frame/ground and it caused my to quit. I replaced the $111.00 circuit board and the outdoor unit of the Intertherm T3RA-030K heating/ac system still only clicks and hums quietly after the 5-minute delay. These units don't have a safety fuse or breaker on them? If i replace the switch will it work or could accidental grounding cause a short elsewhere on the unit?

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YOU HAVE TOUCHED A HIGH VOLTAGE WIRE TO GROUND AS I READ YOR STATMENT. THAT WILL CAUSE A HIGH VOLTAGE BREAKER IN YOUR DISCONNECT OR MAIN PANEL TO TRIP. YOU CAN FIND CONTACTOR IN OUTDOOR AC MASH IT IN WITH AN INSULATED SCREWDRIVER AND SEE IF COMPRESSOR COMES ON . IF NOT YOU HAVE NO HIGH VOLTAGE TO UNIT FIND AND RESET BREAKER. or YOU CAN GO TO MAIN PANEL AND ALL DISCONNECTS AND CHECK FOR A TRIPPED BREAKER. REMEMBER MOST BREAKERS TRIP TO HALF POSITION, BUT CUTLER HAMMERS TRIP TO OFF POSITION. THE THERMOMSTAT CONTROLLED SWITCH IS CONTROLLED BY LOW VOLTAGE THAT TELLS IT WHAT TO DO, BUT THE WORKING POWER IS USUALLY HIGH VOLTAGE IF ANYTHING HUMS ETC YOU HAVE LOW CONTROIL VOLTAGE BUT IF CONTROLS CLOSE AND NOTHING HAPPENS YOU HAVE LOST A LEG OF POWER OR BOTH LEGS. LOCATE TEST AND RESET ALL SOURCES OF POWER ( HIGH VOLTAGE)

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

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Would not having a proper ground for a 3 prong plug be the cause of short cycling every 2 to 3 minutes, once the desired temperature is reached?


Hi "T"

Highly unlikely.

Depends what you mean by "short cycling"

The Ground pin is purely for SAFETY.
It has almost the same purpose as the neutral wire in an ac circuit.
Both often connect together in your meter box.
First, "Lightning" can jump the gap to take the HV pulse to "Ground"
Also, When wires fall off connectors inside equipment and touch the grounded metal chassis they cause the fuse to blow,
Plastic enclosures don't have a need for the "ground" wire.

Modern AC supplies now use an RCD for added safety.
This senses an minute in-balance between the three wires and electronically switches power off.
(Which may have been caused by your finger between the AC hot phase wire & ground... thereby saving you from a full shock)

The "short cycling" being a shorter time period than set on the timer clock.
This would be either an electronic timer or mechanical timer.
Each would have a different reason for reducing the expected time to do a function.

Disturbances & spikes in the Electronic's Power Supply could change the time value.
Are their any Electrolytic Capacitors on the internal incoming power supply voltages. See Below

Cheers

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1 Answer

Circuit board fuse blows when the compressor tries to start


If its a standard split cooling system you should have a control wire that connects the indoor unit to the outdoor unit. That control wire has 2(or more) small wires and normally red is the hot(24volt) and white is the common. Power from red may be shorting to ground or touching the metal on something. It could be the wire touching another wire causing a short. Or if the outdoor unit has safety switches such as a low or high pressure switch, the wires to them may have rubbed against the copper tubing inside the unit causing a short to ground. It could be the electrical contactor or any circuit circuit board it may connect to. Most the time I find that the control wire (small wire) will be pulled on or chewed at the outdoor unit. Something can pull on it and cause it to ground where it connects to the unit behind the control panel. Be sure to be safe!!! A bit of experience may be needed. A good tech can usually find a short in 10 mins.

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1 Answer

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One or more of the solenoids operated switches is your most probable cause. If you have a clamp on amp meter, measure the amps pulled by each component with a solenoid. The reversing valve solenoid and the main contactor solenoid. Each one of the these components are typically rated at 6watts. If your control voltage is around 25 volts, your amp draw should be about .24 amps max. If your transformer cannot be reset without blowing, install a 3 amp inline fuse so when the overload occurs the only thing that blow is an inexpensive fuse costing about 25 cents instead of a several dollar transformer. If your fuse/transformer immediately blows, try looking for a direct ground in the control wiring. If problems has persisted for a while, you may even have to look into replacing your thermostat wire. The control wire travels over the thermostat wire throught the thermostat and excess amps through the thermostat wire can break down the insulation jacket and short to the common wire causing the control transformer to blow. Another thing to check is the condition of your thermostat wire to check if the insulation is shredding off. Old thermostat wire, especially thermostat wire exposed to sunlight deteriorates quicker. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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Hello,

carefully follow the below steps;

Turn off the circuit breaker that controls the air conditioning system. Turn the thermostat to the "On" position to make sure that all power is cut off and the air conditioner cannot accidentally operate.
Remove the cover of the existing thermostat and remove the colored wires from the terminals. Take out any screws that secure the thermostat to the wall, and remove the thermostat.

Mount the new thermostat on the wall. Feed the wires through the unit, with enough slack to allow you to make the new connections.

Connect the red wire to the thermostat terminal labeled "RH," "RC" or "R." The red wire carries the power from the transformer.
Connect the green wire to the thermostat terminal labeled "G." This controls the relay that controls the fan. Attach the yellow wire to the "Y" terminal of the thermostat. This powers the main control. Connect the white wire to the "W" terminal. This is the heating control wire.

Close the thermostat's cover and turn the breakers back on. Turn the new thermostat to the "On" position to test it and that would be all.

I hope the above helps. If it is not helpful, please let me know so that I may direct you further.....

Good luck.

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1 Answer

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Try wiring a "Three-Way" switch as follows

wiring1l.gif

Option 1. Fixture Controlled by Two Switches: Power Through a Switch Box
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1 Answer

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Green is ground, secure to frame. White goes to compressor, located behind LED/LCD, lower right corner you'll see a number of other colored wires kind of in a circle, each connected to a 'port'. The black goes behind LED/LCD panel also. Top far right, back corner. 2 ports are connected to a black box..a red one and should b your black one.
GOOD LUCK!

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1 Answer

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Electricity can be your friend but can also kill you. Disconnect the power before altering or making any connections. If you don't know what you are doing, don't become a statistic, get help.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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