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Is the other freezer setting set differently? u cannot have both settings set to high ans they will conflict with one another. u may have an issue with ur cold control thermostat, can check it with a multi meter. may also have a low freon issue. is freezer fan working ok? door seals ok?
The refrigerator part should be at 38?. Have you checked it with a thermometer? The freezer should be at 0 degrees. Look at the manaul on how to adjust the temperature, if you can't find your manual, go to Google, put in your make and model and manual and you should get the .pdf file of your manual to download to your computer. Always keep your manuals in one place.
If the coil is good, it could be that the defrost timer is not allowing enough of a defrost cycle resulting in ice buildup after various cycles. The ice is never being complete melted and it just keeps building up.
Hello - From what you have describes it sounds like the damper door might be open causing the temperature to be too cold. Use a mirror to look at damper door at the rear of compartment and use a hair dryer on damper door to deice for 5 to 10 minutes. Allow 24 hours and if the temperature is still too cold, then I would have a professional look at the damper door or thermostat control for replacement depending on the diagnostic.
Hard to fix a thermostat as it won't open at a required temperature. Better replace it. Unless you want to block the washer with a wire and keep it open which will trouble you in winters as engine will stay cold.
The thermostat won't affect running cold at an idle. It may give poor heat, or cause an engine to overheat.
You may have a weak or bad cylinder...(as in spark, plug, plug wire, low compression, bad injector etc...)
Also, these are know to have a bad temperature sensor, which will cause it to dump more fuel and run bad, but usually cold only.
Your unit probably needs re-gassing, unless there is excessive ice build up around the thermostat, which would insulate it. If the compressor is cutting in and out and the temperature is still too high, it could also be the thermostat that is busy failing.
Since the defrost problem wont just go away here are details about how it works.
DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.