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Whirlpool Electric Range Model WGE83301 oven won't work

Oven doesn't work, burners do work

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool electric range model # RF261PXSQ oven not heating

I'm afraid you may have a blown Electronic Oven Control (EOC) board. The EOC controls all the functions of the oven. The surface elements are controlled by individual infinite switches behind each control knob.. That's why the surface elements all work, but the oven does not. A replacement EOC can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your COMPLETE model number and you will find it under the "Control Panel Parts" heading as item number 12. There are several listed, based upon the color you need (White, Biscuit, and Black). This is a very simple repair that any do-it-yourselfer can accomplish if you wish to perform this on your own. All you have to do is UNPLUG the appliance and remove the back panel of the console to access.

Before assuming the EOC is defective, however, inspect the board to see if it has a fuse on it. I do not have a wiring diagram to confirm. Some of these boards do have fuses and that's all that it may take to repair it. However, if the board shows signs of burned components, replace it. NOTE: Check for any loose connectors to the board as well.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have questions and/or require additional assistance.

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

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huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool electric range burner power light stays on but no heat

Hello givemeanidth.
Welcome to Fixya

You said, have a Whirlpool electric range (model rf363pxpt0) with standalone burners - the burner power indicator light stays lit whether the heat control knob is on or off, there is no heat coming from the burner on or off. You pulled the burner from the receptacle and one of the tabs broke off and stayed in the receptacle. You removed the tab and made sure no pieces remained in the receptacle then bought a replacement burner, no change. You put the replacement burner in the back burner of the same size and had heat within 10 seconds. You changed out the burner with the one that had been in the back of the range, no heat. As long as the breaker to the range is on the power light stays lit but no power to that one burner only.

What is the model number and the age of your range?

Waiting for your reply.
Huuum

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: whirlpool electric range won't work

We read on another site that sometimes an electical surge messes something up and that if you unplug the range for a few minutes it will reset. So we unplugged our range and when we plugged it in again it worked fine.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool eletric range model RF363PXDW w/F1 display

The manual to this oven is here: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203196274.pdf

That should fix almost any problem you have

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Opening the cook top in a Whirlpool electric range

The cooktop on this model range will lift up, exposing the surface burners and wiring harness. The screws are located along the bottom of the frotn edge of the cooktop. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Just follow these steps:

Before you begin:

1. UNPLUG the range before servicing. There are dangerous voltages still present even with burners turned off.

2. There are a few screws located under the front edge of the cook top. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Remove these screws and the top should lift up. If the range is not equipped with any kind of hinge supports, the top will have to be propped up.

On some ranges, there is a disconnect plug for the surface element wiring harness. If you have this feature, Follow these steps:

a. Unplug the cook top and leave the elements in place.

b. Place the whole cook top assembly face-down on a soft surface (like some old towels, or a blanket).

c. Remove the bad surface element by removing only the bracket pair that the affected element is attached to. Leave the rest of the elements wired together. Write down the wire color codes so you can be sure the new element is installed correctly. HINT: A digital camera can save you some time.

d. When installing the new surface element, make sure you use the same alignment marks (the numbered positions around the perimeter) as the old element. Avoid touching the burner surface and handle with care. Try to handle from the underside of the element only. Oil from your hands can cause damage to the element and/or premature failure. The elements are fragile.

If the wiring harness does NOT unplug, prop the cook top in place and install the surface element from underneath. A helpful hint: Use some duct tape to hold the assembly until you have screwed it back into place. Don't forget to remove the duct tape when completed.

If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know. You can reference searspartdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams of you range for assistance if you need it. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

Testimonial: "Did not update until late, thanks for the detailed directions. No hinges on my stovetop, just detach and remove. Thanks, again!"

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