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Where's the fuse located in a Fosgate p300-1 amp?

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It is just to the right on the rear of the amp next to the 12 V + - RTO +

Here is a link to a picture:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mj0Klw5sfLm/p_575P3001/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P3001.html

Posted on Feb 14, 2012

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Internal or external? Those are protected externally as close to the battery as possible. Check the wire size and color at the amp and then go look for it at the battery under the hood. You should be able to see the installers additions. Inside the unit is another matter.

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I have a rockford fosgate t1500 amplifier and two 12"kicker L5's duel voice coil. the subs are wired together as one. they worked for about half an hour. now the amp and head unit comes on but no...


This amp is rated at 200 watts when run at 4 ohm load when in bridged mode (mono).You will need to check the measurement of the load at the amp's positive and negative location where it meets the speakers. You are actually going to need to measure the load of the speakers on the amp. If it ran too low of a load, meaning less than 4 ohms, there is a good possibility that the amp overheated and damaged some internal components due to not enough resistance. Some of their amps have internal fuses that can be replaced. It may be time to visit a diagnostic shop.

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Watts delivered is a function of the voltage times the current. If the amp was 100 percent efficient, it would need 33 amps at 12V for 400 watts. At 14.4V, it would only need 28 amps. Of course, amplifiers are NOT 100 percent efficient, only about 50-60 percent in many cases, but somewhat higher for monoblocks, maybe 80-90 percent. So you're looking at a fuse in the 60-80A range. In the absense of a specific fuse size from the manufacturer, I'd start the primary fuse at a 60A and if the amp blows it on power up/immediately/frequently, move up to an 80A.

All of the Rockford-Fosgate 2-channel bridgeables I've ever seen show using the left positive (+) and the right negative (-) for bridging. But if it's not shown right on the amp, I'd call or email RF for the correct connection. The new amps do show it.

Hope this helps.

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You might want to try better quality fuses, or allow the amp to warm up a bit before you start bumping down the street make old ladies angry.

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Check the Inline Fuse -=Usually located Close to the battery in the engine copartment=- and also check the fuse in the AMP. Without knowing and seeing all of the details i would say to try to bypass the capicator, I know that i always unhooked my inline before jumping the car but i know it happens. Hopefully it will be just that a fuse or the capicator but if some sort of surge resulted from multiple failures get the amp bench tested at A car audio shop. Just some thoughts.

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