Question about Craftsman 10" Table Saw

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Saw starts the cuts out

When i rip a board the saw cuts out then stars again

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Check the thermal overload device,

Check the end cap of the motor to see if you can see some indication of melting of the end cap- if so, the bearing failed.

It is also possible the motor has a few open windings- does it run slower than usual, less power, and a great deal of sparks on the motor brushes? If so this is an indicator of motors that need attention.

Posted on Feb 15, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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2 Answers

My saw stops rotating during cutting


does the motor stop? If not the gears are worn between armature and spindle. If it does stop you could be applying too much pressure trying to cut with a blunt blade or there is an armature fault.

Apr 24, 2014 | Skil 10-in 15-Amp Compound Miter Saw...

Tip

Cutting Drywall Like a Pro


Cutting drywall is one of the more easy cuttings that you will do when remodeling your house although you hear all kinds of horror stories of people making huge mistakes and having to re-hang drywall or use exorbitant amounts of putty to fix mistakes. Following just a few simple tips you can master the task of cutting drywall.

Most of the cuts that you will be doing will fall under the category of score, snap, cut. Because dry wall is fairly easy to cut, for a majority of cuts you will just need a scoring knife with just enough pressure to cut the paper and then you will be able to snap the drywall then you have to cut the paper on the back side and you are done.

For the major cutouts that you will be doing like doors and windows, the best way to go about doing them is to measure and cut the boards before you hang them. Its best to have someone help you hold the board in place.

There are two main types of saws that you will use a drywall rip saw and a keyhole saw. They each have their purpose and they should only be used for the purposes that they are meant for. The keyhole saw is for small cuts like holes for light fixtures, outlets and switches while the rip saw is for cutting drywall down to size like for doors and windows.

Once you have mastered the basics of cutting drywall you will be able to do more advanced home repairs and will spend less time worrying about cutting out pieces of drywall.

on Jan 23, 2014 | Drywall

1 Answer

New to table saw use, have my husbands old 10 craftsman, was learning to rip with it doing fine, then it started to bog down during cut until the blades stops, moving. put on a new blade and noticed...


If I understood correctly, you started using your husband's table saw and while ripping boards, you managed to stall out the blade AND motor?! If that's the case, you probably have a very dull blade and are binding your board on the blade. Neither is safe and it sounds like trouble is brewing.

First and foremost, get someone to show you how to safely and properly use and adjust the saw if you are new to wood working and power tools. That saw is capable of turning your lumber into a high speed missal if you do things improperly.

It also sounds like you tried installing a new 10" saw blade. Changing the blade requires 2 wrenches. One to hold the arbor and one to tighten the nut. The blade itself should rest on the arbor between two large washers. Also make sure you install the blade so the front face of the cutter teeth face you and rotate toward you. Make sure the saw is unplugged when changing the blade and never turn on your saw with a loose blade.

Oct 20, 2013 | Craftsman 10" Table Saw

1 Answer

Saw just cut out while i was ripping timber, i gone to restart it again and it wont pick up speed, i start/stop and sometimes it doesnt start you get a buzzing coming from the motor, its almost like it...


This not sound sound good, if there is a circuit board with over load protection and soft start this may well be at fault, it could also be a motor issue, this is a job for an electrcian.

May 27, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

I'm a wife with a do-it-yourself knack. I recently purchased a Ryobi 10 in. BTS211 table saw. I find the manual complicated as far as how to actually use the device. Can you recommend where I can get...


I am a retired contractor.
I have a shop with a 10" table saw.
And I have opinions about safe operation.

For safety, turn saw off when making adjustments.

1) Raise blade:
There is a handle you turn to raise the blade.
If you are cutting 1/2" plywood, then set your blade at 3/4" or a bit more.
Keep blade low and away from hands.
Keep hands high and away from blade.

For 1-1/2" thick 2x4, I usually set the saw at 1" and run the board through, and then flip the board over and run it through again, taking 2 passes to make really thick cuts.

7c68409.jpg

2) Blade angle
There is a second handle you turn to set blade at an angle up to 45 degrees
Angle cannot be set if saw blade is fully raised >> lower blade to half way or less and experiment.
Angle cuts are difficult if wood is not perfectly flat and square, or too long or too short (boy is that helpful ... but cutting angles takes some experimentation)

3) Table Guide
You stand behind power saw to operate
The saw table guide is on left side of blade and clamps across the table
The guide markings show inches >>> these are usually approximate
To set guide for accuracy, measure distance from blade to saw guide, and then clamp guide down.

4) Push sticks push sticks push sticks and other safety stuff
Let me emphasize safety first last and always
A table saw will chop your fingers off in a blink
On the plus side, I hear it doesn't hurt. But OMG.
There is a very strong human instinct to reach in with your hand when working on stuff
Train your mind >> if the saw is running, do not lean or reach into the saw
If a board is stuck >>> turn off the saw and wait for full stop
If you wear baggy clothes of a loose shirt, the saw will grab you and pull you in too fast for you to react
Keep your clothes tight and your arms bare

Always use push sticks or push boards::
673c22b.jpg
Notice the saw blade is set low
Two push sticks are used to assist when cutting short board > one stick holds down the board ahead of blade, the other stick is pushing board through saw.
Keep your hands away from the blade no matter what.
The person stands behind and to the side of the board being cut.
The cut wood is supported by a catch table (in this case there are rollers)

Where to stand
Obviously you stand behind the saw to cut wood, and sometimes with long pieces, you can move in front and pull them through, and sometimes with large plywood you stand kinda back and to the side.

Why not stand directly behind a saw? Because saws throw stuff back.
When 'ripping' a board lengthwise as shown in photo above, if the saw catches the board just right, it will throw it backwards like a spear.

If a board 'binds' the saw causing saw blade to stop, then turn off saw, back up the board, and cut again.

Crosscut guide
The saw comes with a T-shaped guide that fits into a groove.
This is a 'push stick' >>> you use it to cross cut a board, and it lets you stand to the side of the saw blade so things wont flip back on you
When using the cross cut guide, remove the table guide that clamps across the saw, or push the table guide WAY back so pieces don't get caught in a bind and the blade flips up the piece and hits you in the face
Remember, the saw throws everything backwards

The saw is strong and fast, and you are best when traveling slow and without rush around your strong friend.

Oct 15, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

How do I plane the edge, end and surface of a board? how do i find a hand saw for ripping a board?


Are your arms big? Good, cause that is how you do it. With a lot of muscle. They have too many power tools out there now to make it easier. But if you want to do it the old way, you will need a handful of planes, not just one block plane. You need a couple of jack planes, smoothing plane, and scraper plane, to get a nice surface, the jack plane, 12 -14 inches long will go right over the bumps and flatten those edges right out, Keep it square to the edge. Look by eye and use a square to check. Your end grain can be done with your block plane, get it in a vise and take little cuts. Your surface is the tough one, it takes a sharp iron and a steady hand to surface a board, some woods don't like being surfaced, some do. Again, start out with the scrub plane, 8-12 inches, and run it against the grain to smooth, then the jack plane with the grain to flatten, then the scraper to finish. Rip saws are hard to come by, the teeth are at a 90 degrees to the saw. and wide, and you need big arms. The japanese saws have both edges on their saws and they work great. But you can't beat an electric planer. Hope this helps.

Apr 06, 2010 | Craftsman 7 in. Plane Block

1 Answer

Band saw blade wanders.


cut freehand. A bandsaw blade will always run off to one side or the other, even using a fence.

The rip fence is intended for re-sawing only, and very thin strips

Jun 28, 2009 | Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

1 Answer

Dewalt 10" table saw, when ripping jambs @ back of guide?


Without knowing the full problem, (theheader is cut off) I would ask are you using the fence to help you rip? and when does the board jamb? If it jambs toward the back of the saw the guide might not be square with the blade. I would unplug it and put something that you know is square on the front edge of the blade away from the teeth and adjust the fence so that it is just snub then lock down the table and move the square to the back of saw, it should move with no resistance. If it does then the fence is out. What you would need to do if this is the case is align the fence to the blade, on the back of the saw are 2 10MM bolts that you need to loosen put your square at the front again and lock down the handle with that done move the square to the back and tap the rail on the back side to move tighter or looser and then lock down the bolts. What I do is move the fence away and then back and start all over again to make sure nothing shifted. It sounds more involved than it is. Let me know if this cures your problem

Jan 12, 2009 | Dewalt DW746X 10" woodworker's table saw...

1 Answer

Grinder problem


* The base plate can be tilted to make angled cuts. Most saws adjust from 90 degrees to slightly less than 45 degrees, making it possible to cut bevelled ends on boards for corning attachments, hip-roof rafter cuts, and even miters. Most saws are equipped with a thumbscrew or lever to loosen the bolt which keeps the saw blade on the correct angle for the cut you are making, located on the front of the saw. Some are also equipped with a scale which indicates the blade angle, from '0' (90 degrees, or square to the board surface) to 45 degrees. * The blade can be set to the depth required for individual cuts, from less than 1/8 inch to the full depth the blade is capable of penetrating. The lever or thumbscrew which locks the base plate at the desired height is usually located at the rear of the motor on the left side. * Many circular saws are equipped with a ripping fence, to guide the blade as you make a rip cut along the edge of a board, giving you a straighter, parallel cut. * Dust ejector. A few newer saws are equipped with a dust ejector to blow the sawdust away from the operator's face and from the mark where the cut is being made. * Laser tracking light. Some newer saws are equipped with a laser that projects a bright, red line down the path of the blade travel. These can also be purchased to retrofit on older units that are not factory equipped with them. * Blade guard. This should be considered a essential safety feature on any saw, and has two parts, the fixed guard over the top of the blade, and the floating guard, which rolls out of the way as the saw is pushed into the work piece. Some have a handle so the blade guard can manually be lifted for plunge cutting or easier viewing of the cutting mark.

Aug 27, 2008 | Speed CGW ABRASIVES 35587 "24-GRIT" HIGH...

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