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Sharp 1000 Watt Light Duty Commercial Microwave, R-21JV. Problem: Unit will not operate. Not getting any power but external circuit breaker OK. Unit is less than 2 yeaqrs old.

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6 Suggested Answers

MicrowaveSvc
  • 8820 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp Microwave problem.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open. Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

We appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Nov 26, 2007

MicrowaveSvc
  • 8820 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp Microwave Model R-1830: No power

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open oven thermal cutout (TCO) on the top of the oven cavity / body or an open thermal fuse on or above the magnetron.

These should read closed (virtually zero) on a continuity check.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it went dead or when you plugged it in or opened or closed the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can usually find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site but the best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 8820 Answers

SOURCE: Kitchenaid KHMS155LSS 1000 watt microwave makes grinding noise

Chances are you have a bad stirrer motor or the stirrer blade is jamming or loose on the motor shaft.

Your owner's manual should tell you how to remove the stirrer cover to check it.

If for some reason you don't have your owner's manual, you can download it free here, as well as the parts manual for your model.

You can also find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

  • 204 Answers

SOURCE: microwave / Frigidare PLMV

What size breaker is protecting the circuit? Per the National Electrical Code, a microwave and a washing machine should each have their own dedicated circuit (and own breaker) rated at 20 amps. Also, if the breaker is old and has tripped many times due to continuous overloading, it may be weakened and could be tripping at a lower amperage than what it is rated. I would try the following:

1. If possible, test the microwave on another circuit and see if it trips that breaker. If possible, use a 20 amp circuit for the test.

2. If you're comfortable with working in an electrical panel safely, place a clamp on ammeter on the hot wire of the affected circuit in the panel and see how much current is being drawn when the microwave is on.

3. If you would rather stay out of the panel, get an inline ammeter/watt meter and plug the microwave into this. If the rating of the microwave is less than 15 amps (1800 watts), you may be able to use a device called a kill-a-watt at a local hardware store. This will show how much power is actually being used by a given appliance.

Posted on May 28, 2009

garing
  • 998 Answers

SOURCE: Sharp Carousel R-1470A Over the range microwave-

check fuse

Posted on Aug 12, 2009

Treefrog15
  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: How do you reset the microwave power? Is there an

There is an internal cartridge fuse, as well as thermal fuses. It is not recommended that you attempt any internal repairs on a microwave due to the presence of very high voltages and the danger of microwave radiation if not reassembled correctly. Residential microwaves, if not under warrranty, are generally considered disposable. Parts and service are very expensive.

Posted on Feb 25, 2010

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MY KENMORE 1000 WATT LITERALLY WORKED FINE ONE MINUTE THEN NOTHING THE NEXT. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT HAPPENED.


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Go to your electcical box, and check the breakers or the fuses. If one of the breakers has kicked, reset it by pushing it all the way off and then back on. If the fuse is blown, unscrew it and screw in a new one of the same amperage.

good luck. please rate my answer. thanks

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Using too much electicity!


We have been checking our electricity units
Not sure how you are checking but your microwave would blow fuses or trip a breaker if it was drawing more than it did since they are only ~ 50% efficient (any of them) which means a 1000 watt unit is pushing the limits of normal household circuits anyhow.
I bought two Kill-A-Watt power monitors for our two households and we are all happy with their convenience and the ability to quickly check anything that plugs into a standard US outlet and they are plenty accurate enough for us heathens.
Take a look:
Kill-A-Watt power monitor 
I didn't price-shop too much but ours came to only $14 each plus shipping of $10 US.

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