Question about Sanyo DS20930 20" TV

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Coaxial output broken

I have the coaxial output (where you connect the antenna coaxial cable)broken and the metal piece came out otherwise everyting else in the tv is working.

Does it take much to fix if I open the TV? Did anyone fix such a problem before?

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  • sanyofix Oct 29, 2008

    Thanks



    A shop fixed it for me for 30$ thanks

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If the connector end is not damaged and the tuner circuit board is not broken, you can solder this back onto tuner, and solder the end back on the circuit board. You should take the tuner out to do this proceedure. A TV shop usually charges $50.00 to do this.

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

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SWR displays briefly then back 1.1


Your problem is not very well described, but let me guess: while you transmit, SWR peaks shortly to a high value and then drops back sharply.
There are two possible reasons:
1) Strong radio transmission pulse somewhere very close to the antenna;
2) Bad contact between connector and coaxial cable somewhere between SWR meter and antenna. Points to check:
- Coaxial connector on the cable from SWR. Is it soldered properly?
- The coaxial cable: can you see mechanical damage, stress? If you find scratches, broken isolation, sharp bends, etc, try to replace the cable.
- Connection between coaxial cable and antenna (or connector): is it soldered properly, is it not corroded or mechanically damaged?
- Connections inside the antenna (if there are any such joints): look for corrosion and mechanical damage, also loose screws.

If you find multiple places of potential problem, go step by step from antenna towards the SWR meter: if the most distant problematic location is fixed and it still shows this strange behavior, go closer.

Rarely this could be a problem in the SWR meter itself. That can be identified if you replace antenna by a dummy load. Dummy load should never cause bad SWR "flashes" (unless it is mechanically broken, too).

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Can't hear anybody


First, stop transmitting. If your antenna system is compromised, transmitting can cause damage to the output transistors are require an expensive repair to correct.

Carefully check the entire length of the coaxial cable from the rear of the radio to the base of the antenna. Pay attention to pinch points between body panels, door openings, etc. Crushed coaxial cable results in a short circuit and must be replaced. Chafed or an otherwise damaged outer jacket on the coaxial cable will allow water to enter and contaminate the dielectric and oxidize copper braid and center conductors. This type of damage requires replacement, too.

Inspect the connector at the radio. Make sure that the soldered joints in the connector are still secured and have not broken and caused an open circuit or short circuit. This connector should be snugged up hand tight to the radio's connector.

Check the feed point of the antenna. This connection is often subject to moisture and can oxidize quickly. Look for evidence of oxidation and other open or short circuit conditions here. Cut the coax back until all the oxidized cable is not longer visible and reconnect to the antenna feed point. If possible, coat this connection completely in a thin coating of silicone to keep water from attacking the connections or entering the coaxial cable.

Check any connections between the antenna base and the antenna itself. Many antennas allow for removal for car washes, etc. by unscrewing / quick disconnect from the base. Clean threads or retaining pins on both the base and antenna thoroughly. Check the center pin contacts on the base and antenna for evidence of good contact. Oxidized surfaces here can indicate a poor connection. Clean or replace as needed.

Make sure that the surface to which the antenna is secured (tool box) is solidly grounded. One or more large conductor bonding jumpers from grounded vehicle panels, frame, etc should be extended to the tool box. A tool box that merely sits on / bolted to the truck's bed is probably not providing enough contact with unpainted, grounded body panels to provide sufficient ground for the antenna system to work well.

Check the tuning slug at the end of many fiberglass antennas. It should be present, and have the protective cover to seal out the entry of water.

Lastly, after the above has been addressed & corrected, tune the antenna to the radio on the truck with a quality SWR meter for the frequency range of the CB as per instructions.

I hope this helps & good luck!

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    2. Using the wrench or needle-nose pliers, loosen and remove the original retaining nut on the base of the antenna mast.
    3. Gain access to the underside of the area of the trunk where the antenna is located.
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    6. Find the motor that controls the antenna mast. Generally, power antennas will have a constant 12-volt lead and a ground lead. The ground lead will be grounded to the panel next to the motor.
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    1. Inspect the fender area where the antenna mast will be mounted for rust.
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    3. Plug the new antenna coaxial cable to the extension coaxial cable.
    4. Plug the new antenna's coaxial cable into the radio's chassis antenna jack if there is no extension coaxial cable. Tie or tape the string you put on the extension cable to the new antenna coaxial cable. This assures that the 2 cables stay together as you route them to the antenna mount in the fender.
    5. Connect the power lead of the antenna to the power antenna lead on the radio.
    6. Connect the 12-volt constant lead to the antenna to a 12-volt source or to the ignition switch.
    7. Direct the new antenna cable via the same route followed by the original antenna cable on up to the hole in the fender in which the mast will be mounted.
    8. Ground the ground lead from the motor to a clean metal surface on the metal panel near the mount.
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      Give these instructions a shot. Might be too generic but might be enough to get you going. Removing Original Antenna
    1. Step 1 Activate the antenna switch to the up position.
    2. Step 2 Using the wrench or needle-nose pliers, loosen and remove the original retaining nut on the base of the antenna mast.
    3. Step 3 Gain access to the underside of the area where the antenna is located.
    4. Step 4 Remove the bracket or brace that is below the hole and holding the antenna in place.
    5. Step 5 Remove the mast.
    6. Step 6 Find the motor that controls the antenna mast. Generally, power antennas will have a constant 12-volt lead and a ground lead. The ground lead will be grounded to the panel next to the motor.
    7. Step 7 Remove the ground lead from the panel.
    8. Step 8 Pull out the antenna coaxial cable.
    9. Step 9 Unplug the coaxial from the extension coaxial cable.
    10. Step 10 Remove the original antenna coaxial cable. Note the route the cable follows.
      Installing the New Power Antenna
    11. Step 1 Inspect the fender area where the antenna mast will be mounted for rust.
    12. Step 2 Clean the area before installing the new antenna.
    13. Step 3 Plug the new antenna coaxial cable to the extension coaxial cable. (On some General Motors and Ford cars you may need an adapter to mate the 2 cables together. Car audio retail stores sell such an adapter.)
    14. Step 4 Plug the new antenna's coaxial cable into the radio's chassis antenna jack if there is no extension coaxial cable. Tie or tape the string you put on the extension cable to the new antenna coaxial cable. This assures that the 2 cables stay together as you route them to the antenna mount in the fender.
    15. Step 5 Connect the power lead of the antenna to the power antenna lead on the radio.
    16. Step 6 Connect the 12-volt constant lead to the antenna to a 12-volt source or to the ignition switch.
    17. Step 7 Direct the new antenna cable via the same route followed by the original antenna cable on up to the hole in the fender in which the mast will be mounted.
    18. Step 8 Ground the ground lead from the motor to a clean metal surface on the metal panel near the mount.
    19. Step 9 Insert the mast into the hole. Face the serrated side of the plastic cable on the bottom of the mast toward the motor side. The plastic cable can be inserted freely to about 12 inches and will stop.
    20. Step 10 Turn on antenna switch to down position until the plastic cable goes down and catches into the gear mechanism of the drum housing. If the plastic cable does not gear into the mechanism, twist the cable slightly until the cable contacts into the gear mechanism while the motor is in operation.
    21. Step 11 Stop the motor after the cable goes into the housing 12 to 25 inches.
    22. Step 12 Secure the bracket or strap to the bottom of the antenna mast and to the metal fender.
    23. Step 13 Replace the retainer nut to the base of the antenna mast and secure tightly.
    24. Step 14 Replace the panel that covers the antenna mount area.

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