Question about Grilling
Do not know if I showed Masterbuilt 20072010- replaced the heating element and the digital readout. Still no heat. It registers as heating . The red light comes on but the temp does not increase. I put a hair dryer on inside the door and it does increase the temp. I read from ground inside the box where you connect the element wires-120v from across each wire. But only about 7 volts across the wires. Appreciate your imput.............Thanks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hold a warm rag over the end of the thermocouple sticking out of the back, INSIDE the smoker. When the probe gets up to 40F or so the element will turn on and you will be good to go. The computer just doesn't understand whats up when the thermometer gives such a low reading.
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
SOURCE: Won't heat
I have the same smoker with the same problem. I checked the heat element with an ohm meter, it was good so just cleaned the burnt residue from the male spade connectors attached to the element with a dremel tool. Slipped two new female spade connectors over the ones on the element and soldered them with the wires attached with a 1/16' silver bearing electronics solder. Now the connections cannot become loose and burn up again. I tested everything out and then wrapped the exposed connectores with non conductive fiberglass electrical tape and covered everything with expanding foam that comes in a spray can. Easy fix for me after reading all the posts from you guys here. Good luck and go for it! All I had to buy was the foam insulation.
Corpus Christi TX
Posted on Feb 19, 2009
Yes, hook it up, but before you do that Vacuumn every piece of lint out of the cabinet. Also check TCO and check the thermostats for continuity. They should all read zero ohms.If one of them is open, replace it.
Also use your ohmmeter to check the heating element, It should not show an open condition.
Posted on Jul 29, 2009
SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating
The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."
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