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My kenmore elite dryer 110.63932102 wont start all lights are on when i press start button it buzzes and stops and that it what is wrong?

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  • Master
  • 2,468 Answers

It is the timer thats bad

Posted on Feb 13, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Oasis Dryer 6705 not start

I take the timed approach with appliance problems. If they occur 10 years after purchase, I buy a new one. If five years, I call a repair service and measure the cost of repair against the purchase of a replacement. If one year or less after purchase, I pile the expensive, offending, useless lump of an example of the decline of American workmanship into the back of my pickup and push it out on the doorstep of the store where I purchased it.

I find this method to be the most cost-effective and least troubling. And costs me about the same as calling the repair service.

In fact, right now I'm loading up my Kenmore Elite Oasis 6705, purchased March 13, 2007, (note that the problem began one month AFTER the warranty ran out) in the back of my pickup and I will make at quick stop at Sears to push it off the back of my truck (I find if I don't stop, but keep the truck rolling it makes for a much louder and attention grabbing drop off) then find the nearest hardware store so I can purchase some strong nylon line to string across my backyard so I can dry my clothes. I also purchase a bit of extra line so that I have enough to string up any Sears or Kenmore representatives who might stop by to inquire about the appliance they found on their doorstep.

Posted on Apr 12, 2008

erpaalai
  • 999 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore electric dryer stopped and wont start when button

Make sure there is 240vac then check the door switch, the start switch. Beyond the obviouse it is basic troubleshooting to work down to the failed component. Eric

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Dryer, start button doesn't stay on

when I press and hold the start button it tumbles but not sure if it heats up. When I let go of button machine stops

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite dryer Model:110.C60952990 almost no heat.

Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.

There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.

A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.

If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.

If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.

Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.

Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.

In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.

If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: press the start button on dryer, it hums but wont

Sounds like a weak motor. You'll have to get a new motor installed. They are fairly inexpensive and easy to install yourself on that type of machine if you are handy. Motor is located in the bottom right of the machine, attached to the drum belt through a small pulley underneath the drum next to the motor.

Posted on Dec 27, 2009

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1 Answer

My Kenmore Elite dryer has power & you can select a cycle, but pressing the start button does nothing. The timer flashes and makes a buzzing sound.


Check door switch plunger, it protrudes into the switch to make contact and may be broken, if OK, check for broken door switch. Order parts from repairclinic.com

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That is a bad sign. If the buzzing starts when you press the start button and stops when you release its almost safe to say that the motor has a dead short or grounded out and causing that to happen. You can check the start switch by getting a multimeter and with the dryer unplugged take the wires off the switch, place a lead on each pin and press the start with meter set for continuity. If it shows continuity when presed and stops when released your motor is shot and needs to be replaced.
Now if you press the start button and the machine starts to hum and continues to hum its possible that something has gotten caught in the blower wheel and binding the motor up. Depending on the make and model the location and access to it vaaries.
If you can turn the drum and then the dryer starts you have a bad motor. The way the dryer works is when you initially push the start button, electricity is sent to the start winding, or stator, of the motor. This will in turn start the motor turning. From there the stator will drop out of the electrical process and at the same time the run winding, or rotor, will take over and the motor will continie to run. Your stator is damaged, has a burn spot, etc so by you turning the drum, the belt around the drum is moved which is attached to the motor pulley. You basically take the place of the stator. Long story short, you have a bad motor.

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The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

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heatman101

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FWIW ... the Sears guy came by yesterday. The problem was apparently that the door latch was not operating to the extent that the sensors thought the door was open. He is replacing the latch next week. He adjusted the old one in the mean tiome and it appears to be working fine.

This kind of stunned me, since my wife reported an electric zap and the interior light burned out as the dryer went dead -- so I was sure it would be a fried circuit board -- but, no, a little jiggling of the latch seemed to clear it up....

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