Question about Refrigerators
I have read other post. My heater coils measure 25 ohlms for the two in series at the junction panel. I see the defrost time spinning through the view window. Looks like defrost cycle is not runningl The defrost tubs look pretty discolored but coils inside seem connected. Not sure how they disconnect from wire ends. Not sure which is broken. Anyway to test the termostate, timer. Can I short two termainals on the timer to see if the heater coils will heat? Also where do I get parts for this thing, none of the diagrams online are my fridge. This is a 1993 model that has been great until now.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If one coil was burnt out and you replaced the heaters and defrost terminator switch I would recheck the continuity through the defrost heaters. You can do this with an Ohm meter with the refrigerator unplugged. If you had an open coil in one of the heaters you did not have to replace the thermo disk. If you have a complete circuit through the heaters try using the old thermo disk. If you have a meter you can check the voltage from the heater connection on one side to the inlet side of the thermo disk with the refrigerator running in the defrost mode. You should read 115-125 Volts on the meter. This reading tells you that the defrost timer is supplying power to the heater circuit.
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
SOURCE: Defrost heater wont heat up
so you seems to have done your homework. all the inputs are great.
you said you have 206 volts at the heater connection prior to connecting the heater.
and would become zero once the heater is connected.
so you have a loose connection from the timer to the defrost thermostat then to the heater.
does the defrost thermostat you are talking about is the same as the bi-metal that we used to refer in our technical language.( it is the part that would open up as the temperature inside the evaporator rises to a certain level.)
because if you are referring to the fridge thermostat which controls the compressor. ( this is also 0 ohm when closed), then the problem could be in your bi-metal.
this is the part in between the timer and the defrost heater.
it terminates the power once the temperature of the evaporator coil is about 5 degrees Celsius.
here's what you can do.
run the fridge for a day ( so that we would be sure that the bi-metal is close) then put the heater in place, turn the timer to heating mode by turning it slowly.
then place the test leads across the bi-metal, if you can measure 220 volts then that is the problem.
it is not shorting out even with a freezing temperature. you can further test the system by putting a jumper wire between the bi-metal and you heater should be heating up now.
tnx 4 using fixya,
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
My oven is turning on by itself. It will heat up to around 200 - 250 degress and shut off. I have made sure the knob is in the "OFF" position. Any ideas?
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
Dave, you are throwing me a little here. By jumping line to defrost you should have 120 V. at the heater. J-11 to j-9. Are you measuring voltage? Lets ohm out the circuit. Unplug the refer and disconnect the blue connnector from the main board. Measure between the blue wire on the connector and the orange wire on J-7 pin 9. This is right to the right. You should have approx 22 ohms. If you don't have this the problem lies either in the heater, harness,or defrost T-stat. The Tstat sits on the evaporator, opens at 140 degtrees and closes at 110 degrees. So it should read closed. Let me know how you are doing, Catriver
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
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