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Maytag RSD2200 Freezer coils ice up solid

I have read other post. My heater coils measure 25 ohlms for the two in series at the junction panel. I see the defrost time spinning through the view window. Looks like defrost cycle is not runningl The defrost tubs look pretty discolored but coils inside seem connected. Not sure how they disconnect from wire ends. Not sure which is broken. Anyway to test the termostate, timer. Can I short two termainals on the timer to see if the heater coils will heat? Also where do I get parts for this thing, none of the diagrams online are my fridge. This is a 1993 model that has been great until now.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

22yooper
  • 828 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile SxS Refrigerator wont defrost after new heater installed

If one coil was burnt out and you replaced the heaters and defrost terminator switch I would recheck the continuity through the defrost heaters. You can do this with an Ohm meter with the refrigerator unplugged. If you had an open coil in one of the heaters you did not have to replace the thermo disk. If you have a complete circuit through the heaters try using the old thermo disk. If you have a meter you can check the voltage from the heater connection on one side to the inlet side of the thermo disk with the refrigerator running in the defrost mode. You should read 115-125 Volts on the meter. This reading tells you that the defrost timer is supplying power to the heater circuit.

Posted on Apr 30, 2008

docjohn174
  • 943 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer frozen solid freezer cool fridge not

HI look for this part in the freezer. its the most common one to fail.replace it

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: Defrost heater wont heat up

so you seems to have done your homework. all the inputs are great.

you said you have 206 volts at the heater connection prior to connecting the heater.
and would become zero once the heater is connected.

so you have a loose connection from the timer to the defrost thermostat then to the heater.
does the defrost thermostat you are talking about is the same as the bi-metal that we used to refer in our technical language.( it is the part that would open up as the temperature inside the evaporator rises to a certain level.)

because if you are referring to the fridge thermostat which controls the compressor. ( this is also 0 ohm when closed), then the problem could be in your bi-metal.
this is the part in between the timer and the defrost heater.
it terminates the power once the temperature of the evaporator coil is about 5 degrees Celsius.
here's what you can do.

run the fridge for a day ( so that we would be sure that the bi-metal is close) then put the heater in place, turn the timer to heating mode by turning it slowly.

then place the test leads across the bi-metal, if you can measure 220 volts then that is the problem.

it is not shorting out even with a freezing temperature. you can further test the system by putting a jumper wire between the bi-metal and you heater should be heating up now.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Refrigerator Defrost heaters are shorted to ground.

My oven is turning on by itself. It will heat up to around 200 - 250 degress and shut off. I have made sure the knob is in the "OFF" position. Any ideas?

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer won't defrost, coils full of ice.

Dave, you are throwing me a little here. By jumping line to defrost you should have 120 V. at the heater. J-11 to j-9. Are you measuring voltage? Lets ohm out the circuit. Unplug the refer and disconnect the blue connnector from the main board. Measure between the blue wire on the connector and the orange wire on J-7 pin 9. This is right to the right. You should have approx 22 ohms. If you don't have this the problem lies either in the heater, harness,or defrost T-stat. The Tstat sits on the evaporator, opens at 140 degtrees and closes at 110 degrees. So it should read closed. Let me know how you are doing, Catriver

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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I have frost on the freezer side and both the freezer and fridge are not keeping the food / frozen items cold. The fridge seems to be running constantly


remove the rear panel in the freezer,and if evaporator coils a solid block of ice,take a hand held hair dryer and melt the ice,then remove the heater located under the coil and test it for continuity,if open replace it with g.e.# wr51x10055 heater element

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Refrigerator not cooling-freezer section icing up


Refrigerator not cooling, ice forming on back of side-by-side freezer:
Turn off unit. Empty freezer section. Remove freezer back panel (4 screws) to expose iced-over coils. Use a fan to speed up defrosting. Put a towel or a plastic drip pan in the bottom of the freezer to collect melting water (rather than letting the water collect and maybe overflowing in the drip pan underneath the refrigerator).
After defrosting, by temporarily replacing the freezer back panel and turning on the unit, the refrigerator may operate OK for about 3 weeks before the next excessive ice build up.
Possible problem- a burned out Defrost Heater.
To check: After defrosting, turn off power to or unplug the refrigerator.
Unscrew the Defrost Heater bracket (2 screws). When loose, unplug the two wires connected to the unit. Have the unit checked, or use an ohm-meter to check continuity. If unit measures "open", high resistance, replace the Defrost Heater and bracket. If the heating element shows continuity (or low resistance) the heater is probably OK and you have another problem. Now you may need to contact a repair man.

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1 Answer

Freezer is ok but refrig is at 60f even though it is set at max cool - maytag model mtb1954dro purchased 7-25-00


NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if freezer control is turned WARMER, which makes the Ref. colder
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Check cold control (thats where you turn it colder)
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME If this was helpful

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1 Answer

My Maytag side-by-side is a MSD2655HEQ. The coils in the freezer compartment keep frosting over and the refrigerator side quits keeping cool air. I've defrosted the coils with a blow dryer and the...


The defrost circuit in you freezer has failed that is why you have to defrost the coils. The defrost circuit consists of the heater element, the defrost thermostat and the control module. The control module turns off the compressor and powers up the heating element to melt the ice on the coil, after the coil reaches 40 deg F the thermostat cuts off power to the heater. The heating element and thermostat is mounted to the coil. If you have a multimeter and know how to use one, you can check the thermostat and heater. You can check the heating element with a multimeter to see if it has electrically opened. If it has then you will need to replace it. Check also the thermostat, it should be in series with the heater. It should read close to 0 ohms if it is freezing and read infinite ohms if the temperature is above 40F. If the thermostat and heater check out, the problem might be with the control module.

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1 Answer

Refer


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