Question about GE JSP26 Electric Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your oven temperature sensor must be replaced. It is located in the oven compartment up high, may be right or left side depending on model. Smaller than a pencil about 3&1/2 inches long.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
This means the controller is sensing a stuck key, which may be due to an actual stuck key or a problem with the controller. There is a way to diagnose which is the cause if you are comfortable tearing into the unit, or a repair tech can quickly diagnose for you. If you need a controller, you might consider having us rebuild it for you.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Try to unplug the oven for about 10 minutes. It might reset itself.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you very much Iceman! Prompt and helpful."
f 2 code states that oven has exccded 590 deg w/door in unlocked position or 990 f in locked . either the themp prop is bad or the relay in the EOC ( clock ) is welded closed . I would replace the prob first ( less expensive ) then the clock if needed .. **** ..
Posted on Dec 23, 2009
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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