Question about Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

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Hobart A200 Sir, I've got a Hobart A200, an older one. The small 15 tooth gear in the transmission broke at the keyway. I've replaced the gear, and everything else in the machine looks really good. (I did discover the hard way that the slow speed gear IS directional. Oops! After inverting it the right way, I've got all three speeds back.) But I've got slipping in the unit now..... All three speeds work fine, but under load the beater will lag, then catch up, lag and catch up.... I've since read that the thin nut at the bottom of the planetary is not supposed to be too tight? I'm trying to figure out the machine's clutching works. The clutch gear fits onto a 'brass' bearing with no keyway. I have not been below the brass bearing. Is there a key that could have broken beneath this level? Or is there a proper way to set up the shaft for the clutching to work correctly. Thanks in advance! Steve

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  • swelebny Oct 24, 2008

    Michael,



    As soon as I get home this afternoon I'll check on the worm gear. I'll open it up and carefully put it under load. It is the old style, but I hadn't seen any evidence of it slipping.



    Still a little confused as to how the 'clutch' on the planetary actually works, and how to set up the proper tension on the assembly. An unkeyed drive gear sits on the bronze clutch bushing. Does the system rely completly on compression?



    Steve

  • swelebny Oct 25, 2008

    Michael, I appreciate the time you've spent to answer my questions. It's very kind. The machine is a lot older than six years.....



    I torn the entire machine down last night, checked all keys and gears, and everything looks good. The last question I have is about the bronze bushings on the planetary. Both rotate fairly freely on the shaft, the bottom one is tighter than the top, and I di have more torque and less slipping from speed 2 than speed 1. I'm now thinking these may be worn and should be a tight interference fit, rather than just free to spin on the shaft. I had assumed compression of the assembly when tightening is what prevented these bushings from turning, but if the instructions are to not really reef down on those top and bottom planetary nuts, these bushing must be too loose......



    Steve

  • swelebny Oct 26, 2008

    Michael,



    Ahhh! Got it! The drive gears on the planetary (center main shaft) are supposed to spin freely. The shift collar IS keyed to the shaft and engages the free spinning driven gears when the shift collar is moved up and down.



    I kept the accessory drive off so I could peek into the unit, and left the shift lever in first. I had to make a new shim for the top of the shaft under the bearing so that when tight the shift collar sat right between the toothed drive gears.



    First attempt I found that I had put the first gear on upside down, so that moveable key wasn't engaging for first. Flipped it, and it worked fine. All gears work, no slipping. Anyone doing any work on these machines is going to get confused if they overtighten the central planetary shaft, because those gears on the bronze bushings will start to grab.



    Second lesson I learned was that like you said, tension should not be too tight on the central (planetary) shaft. I had the bottom nut a little too tight, and that does start to lock up the free floating bronze bushing.



    The machine is now running like a champ. I learned a lot and I'm grateful to Hobart for building a beautiful machine, but it sure would be helpful to have service manuals. And thanks much for your help too.



    Steve

  • cdnDough May 11, 2010

    I don't suppose you have any photos of the disassembly/reassembly that you could post?  I have an older A200 as well and it is making a periodic noise that seems to coincide with the occasional clutch slip.  I've posted a quick video showing the machine kneading a small batch of dough.





    I have the exploded parts diagram from hobart and I'm mechanically inclined.  Any advise on what the problem might be is greatly appreciated!

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How do u change motor worm gear on a200? what has to come out for this job.
harry

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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When you say lag and catch up. This may not be a issue. I have seen this with dough and a spiral hooks on all sizes of Hobarts the hook and dough get in a position to push the hook forward and the drive gears catch back up the hook. in fist gear on the 20 quart this is common for sure. but its normal. if you have a real slip from a sheared key it will not take long to where you can hold the planetary shaft with your hand and stop it. another slip that might be possible is if your mixer has the first generation worm shaft gear Assembly. when it is worn out it will slip you. this is the shaft that drives directly off the motor. you can tell if it's first Gen by it has a large spring on it. the tow later versions are all keyed to the shaft no chance to slip unless a key shears.
Michael

Posted on Oct 24, 2008

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  • doobo67 Oct 24, 2008

    I think your talking about the shifting in the what I call center main shaft if its truly only six years old the first speed is all done in the top bigg roud gear for first spead that is a sprag type locock on the the shaft gear. now the gear under it with no key and Brass bushing is locked into the center shaft by a ******* callar under it. this gear by the way is 3nd when you shift the handle to second the shifting caller that is keyed to shaft moves up to the gear and locks into it with 4 teeth, go ahead and slide that gear off and look at it to she the lock in teeth under it, now when you shift to 2ng the yoke moves dow to another gear and catches 4 teeth on it same way. when it is 1st speed only gear that gets locked in is the top big one the shift colar is I guess you would say touching nothing idle just spinningment of the shaft center tighten the nop nut just tight and back off 1/8 to 1/4 then go down to the bottom of the plaitary and tighten the bottom thin nut just tight then back off 1/4 then put the Acorn nut on and take it up to the thin nut holding the thin nut with a thin wall 3/4 inch wrench and tighten acorn to thin against each other this is the way it does not come lose.

    Michael

  • doobo67 Oct 24, 2008

    one more thing the catch up thing if its dough is normal its how the dogh will push it ahead of itself

    Michael

  • doobo67 Oct 25, 2008

    The brass bushings are to be free slipping into gear and on shaft. not tight. new onbes are laways good to install and are availble at your local hobart. and if you have it apart makes sure to put new grease seal on it the center shaft

    Michael

  • doobo67 Oct 26, 2008

    It sounds like you have it figured out. I can tell you have a wrench head mind. make sure it has alot of grease. it is almost completle packed full. and todays grease is Mobil lith AW-2 Granger has it. You should runt it 1/2 hour and see the grease flowing around inside through the two inspection holes on top trans lid. also Hobart has a new spacer / that goes through the bottom center shaft seal that has a groove cut in the top to fit a O-ring to seal better as the new grease has a tendancy to leak more.

    Michael

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SOURCE: Hobart A200

Hi,
I found a manual which shows electrical details about your Hobart A200 ..... Hope this would be useful to you..... click here
Thanx for using fixya....

Posted on Oct 24, 2008

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