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De longhi GSS601 Gas Cooker - won't light

My gas cooker will not light. The ignition works, the gas comes through, it lights, but then the burner will not stay lit when you let go of the ignition (stop holding the knob in)

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 183 Answers

SOURCE: The cooker stays warm when mains cooker switch is on.

Either teh grill element or the oven heating element is fault or the thermostat or grill regulator, locate which element is warm, if the grill then it is most likely the regulator, if it is the oven it is the thermostat. Engineer

Posted on Jul 28, 2007

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aborcass
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SOURCE: COOKER DECALS DISSAPPEARED ON FRONT OF OUR 6 BURNER DELONGHI

umm id try calling hte manufacture directly for that, they are silk screened on at the factory not really stickers. youll need to replace the front bulk head. give them a call sure your not the first

Posted on Mar 17, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Nexgrill patio heater won't stay lit

I called Nexgrill technical support at 1-800-913-8999. They are sending me a new thermo couple to keep the valve open when ignited - so the patio heater will stay on. I needed to give them the serial number (inside the propane tank door) and fax them a copy of the receipt.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Will not ignite

i own a parkinson cowan SIG531wn. When i ignite the grill
the flame ignites then blows itself out straight away.
any ideas what could be wrong?

Posted on Aug 23, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Thane Q Grill

Hello,
I just read this post as I was surfing for the Q-Grill - which they don't make anymore according to their website, and I looked everywhere - Amazon, Ebay, etc. I'm looking to buy a second Q-Grill; the "Turbo" actually. My first one still works great! Anyways, I know it's almost a year for a response but if you're still having the issue (or if anyone is currently having this issue), that you stated regarding the "red" button under the dome light - I had the same problem after the first year of using my Q-Grill. The red cap (or button as you call it) cracked and the spring inside was popping through the crack. The red cap kept the pressure on the spring which was pressing the gas valve button to let the propane gas flow through the pipes. Its almost like a safety mechanism. Without the red cap on the spring, the gas valve button wouldn't be depressed, and no gas flow - Cold burgers! Yuck!....Any how, my solution was to place a thin, flat piece of wood like a very thin plywood; 1-1/2"(inch) by 1-1/2"(inch) and 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick over the cracked red cap, then I screwed down the dome light housing on top of the wood piece which rests on top of the red cap. The dome light housing now applies downward pressure to the wood piece, which applies pressure to the cracked red cap and the spring inside which is activating the gas valve button for gas flow. An alternate solution to using a piece of wood is using a piece of paper and folding it to make a small square (you may have to cut the piece of paper). And fold the piece of paper enough times to make it thick enough for the dome light housing to apply pressure once you screw it down.....I hope this helps you out.

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

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My cannon duo cooker was working one day then next day the clock doesn't work, the ignition wont work theres no gas coming through to lite oven manually whats the problem the rings work perfectly


Gas ovens invariably have a safety thermocouple to cut the gas off automatically if the flame goes out, due to an interruption in the supply for instance. The thermocouple must be temporarily over-ridden for the purpose of lighting the burner and pilot and often the override is mechanical but considering the clock and ignition has stopped working it would be reasonable to assume your oven has an electrical or electronic thermocouple override.

It would seem either the mains supply to your cooker has failed or the internal power supply has a problem. With such a sophisticated oven, even if you had been able to light it manually, it is possible the temperature control wouldn't have worked.

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When the oven lighting mechanism lights the gas, the flames heat a temperature sensor that, once hot, increases the pressure in the sensor's copper pipe and opens a safety valve to allow gas to continue to flow without you holding down the button (It's made like this so, if your flame gets blown out, the sensor cools and cuts off the gas supply, making it safe from gas leaks). These sensors occasionally fail, and very sensibly "Fail safe" - No pressure in the sensor pipe, the valve won't stay open and there is no gas to the burner once you release the button.
If you take a look inside the oven at the back where the burner is, you will see the sensor, usually the bit that is in the flame is cylindrical, about an inch long made of metal about 3 or 4 mm thick, tapering at the end. It will be held in place by a nut that fits on a thread at the base of the sensor. Running from the sensor is a copper pipe that runs to the cutoff valve. Unbolt the sensor and withdraw it from the hole it is mounted in, trace the copper pipe back to the valve (where it is usually screwed into the valve with a 10mm connector that looks like a car brake pipe connector. Unbolt from the valve. These sensors are widely used on most gas appliances (Boilers, gas fires, cooker hob burners and patio heaters all use the same kind of sensor). You should be able to get a replacement from any gas appliance service agent. If you go into a shop, take it with you. The only thing you need to do is make sure the replacement you get is long enough. If you are offered one that is slightly longer, that

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Just bought a Leisure Gourmet Classic gas cooker. Connected the gas and plugged it in but none of the burners will light. The ignition is working but no gas is getting through. Any ideas folks? TIA, Andy


I had a similar problem when my new Leisure cooker was installed last December. The burners would light when I held the knobs in but when I let go the flame would go out. The engineer took off each of the burner knobs and stuck a small wad of aluminium foil between the inside of the knob and the contact on the front of the cooker - he said it's a design fault and the gap is just a bit too large for contact to be made reliably. This fixed the problem and I've had no trouble since.

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Oven won't light - electronic ignition oven


Hi, it could be your, electric heating element and oven burner gas valve. both are located in oven burner compartment, remove last bottom panel, locate oven burner, the valve that feed gas to burner, has two wires connected to it, that's oven valve could be faulty, also look on side oven burner, you will see electrical heating element, could also be faulty, it's better to replace both oven valve and element, that's the most common problem, but first check oven thermostat, that's knob you turn to light oven, if thermostat o/k, then it's your oven valve or heating element, (used to ignite oven burner) or call a mechanic, good luck.

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How to light our gas cooker



Modern gas cookers use an electronic ignition switch rather than a pilot light to light the gas for cooking. This means you can light your gas cooker with the touch of one button instead of using several matches or a flint lighter. Of course, you still have the option to light the gas cooker by hand with matches or a flint lighter if the ignition switch does not work the first time.

1.Open the gas regulator valve by pushing it in and turning it to a low setting.

2.Push the ignition switch once.

3.If the gas cooker does not light on the first try, close the gas regulation valve for one minute by pushing in on it and turning it back to the "Off" position.

4.Open the gas regulation valve, set it a bit higher than you did on the first lighting attempt, and push the ignition switch again.

5.Light the gas with a match or a flint lighter if the gas cooker does not light when you push the ignition switch again.

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