Question about GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Washer sticks in cycle; door switch related?

The part of the door that connects to the switch cracked -- this resulted in the washer not working unless someone or something held the door tightly closed. I found the part (with some difficulty as GE had meanwhile changed the part number) and replaced it. But... same problem. The timing mechanism is either getting stuck or (what I suspect) is somehow the "locking connection" between the door part and the switch part are still not fully engaging and causing the washer to "lock up." I am also concerned that the now many times the washer has been found in this "stuck mode" (sometimes hours later) may have further contributed to the overall problem. The wiring harness/switch etc is abt $150 so I don't want to order/replace to find that's not the issue. Anybody with experience/ideas on this? Perhaps mildly related (and also annoying) is a persistent mild leak at bottom of door. I don't feel this washer has really gone the distance it should have -- but then I'm used to the old Maytags -- my mother bought one in 1962 that was still going strong in 1985 -- with one water pump replacement in the late 70s. Used for a family of six, too. Those were the days.

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  • Mark McDiarmid Aug 16, 2006

    CATRIVER -- I may have confused you slightly -- I replaced the plastic door latch (only) so far.

    I have now received the dreaded part 131888900 (substituting for 131269400 that I wanted, but seems to be unavailable). The iniquity of Frigidaire in requiring you to replace a counterweight in order to replace a door switch is astonishing. Must make UPS and others salivate -- 16lb + shipment for something that should weigh less than a pound. Morever it comes with a complete wiring harness, necessitating more additional work. (sigh). IF I were starting anew, I would just cut an access panel in the side of the bloody washer, but I have dismantled most of the top of the washer at this point to get access (I might have been able to do this from the bottom too, now that I've got that open as well.

    Anyway, I believe this is the part that will cure the washer's ills, because pressing on the door (and holding it thruout the wash cycle) was correcting the problem.

    Any hints in installing the counterweight and/or the new latch/harness are welcome, although some instructions did come with it.

    I have, by the way, written to both Frigidaire and GE about how impossibly stupid their substitution is. Also for anyone in the future -- Frigidaire sells the part for abt $75 -- GE sells the SAME PART for over $140. Guess that "nameplate" is really important, eh?

    Thanks Catriver, meanwhile for the advice above -- if I still have problems after installing this latch/harness, I'll follow up with the above -- but I hope unnecessary, or I will be wishing I had just replaced the whole damn washer.

    Speaking of which (to all) any suggestions for my NEXT frontloader?

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CU, where the heck do we start? You have already changed the door switch. Does the lock light come on when you start a cycle? If so I think we may be looking at the motor control board for a problem. The timer motor does not continuously run by itself. The motor control, controls the timer motor and advances the timer when needed. Remove the 6 pin harness from the motor control board. Measure the resistance between pins 1&2, 2&3 and 3 &1. If the meter reads other than 3meg ohms, the control board probably is at fault. As far as the timer itself, you want to check the timer motor resistance itself, if it reads open, it's a bad timer. You should find a tech sheet in the bottom section of this washer that can guide you along. This may be as simple as reseating the harnesses on the control board. With out being there I would lean more towards the motor controller.....Catriver...post back.

Posted on Aug 16, 2006

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Tremendous "ad" for maytags, wait for catriver he knows..good luck

Posted on Aug 10, 2006

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Related Questions:

Tip

No spin - tip for all washers.


Hi.

If you have no spin there may be different reasons behind the problem. Before advancing to spin the timer board performs a test on drain part of the cycle, stops the drain and checks the door lock. Drain system, pressure switch and lid switch are all parts that if defective may cause no spin.

The first part to be tested is the drain system. This must be checked regardless of the fact that the pump is working. If there is blockage, residual water in the drain system or water flowing back from drain hose may cause the washer not detecting that drain is complete, and not advancing to spin.

Disconnect power and check the drain system, accessing drain filter and hose connected to the drain pump.
In most front loaders this is accessed removing the trim at the base of the front side of the appliance (under the door), and rotating the filter cap counterclockwise. The filter should be located behind the trim at the base of the washer.
Top loader usually offer access to pump either from back or from the bottom of the appliance. In some case (eg.Kenmore top load) you have to lean the machine forware to gain access to the bottom part of the unit, where the pump is located.

After opening the pump hose cover be prepared to collect a good amount of water. Keep a container at hand. Ensure that power is not connected before starting.

Also double check drain hose at the back of the appliance, and check that the elbow height is as prescribed in manual. Incorrect drain hose settings may result in syphoning, that means water is flowing back from drain hose into the washer tube. This may result in no spin.

After performing the check on the drain system test washer again. Sometimes removing eventual blockage in drain pump may fix this kind of problem.

If the pump is draining, but drain doesn't complete, and if there is no blockage in drain lines, a parts that may be causing the no-spin problem are pressure switch and door latch switch.

The door latch switch is checked by electronic control before advancing to spin. The door switch is tested running a cycle with the door switch contacts jumped. If the model has a lock motor more testing is needed. In that case the switch is tested ensuring that the lock motor impedance reads according to specifications and energizing the lock motor.

If the drain stops always at same point and cycle does not advance replace also the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when drain is over and when to advance to spin. This part is difficult to test in full, the part is not expensive and it is usually replaced without testing. Pressure switch is a common failure causing no spin. If drain is OK, then either pressure switch or lid switch/lock system is usually responsible.

If the above is OK , with top loaders you need to add to the list the problems related to motor and transmission. In front loaders, check problems related to motor and motor control unit. Such problems will be near to the end of the troubleshooting list. Check them before deciding to replace the electronic control.

If all the other parts are OK, what remains is the electronic control module (CCU). The CCU is rarely causing no spin. A defective electronic control module usually results in an error message being prompted, or in the machine not working at all. The part is tested in full reading volts while the machine is operating. In some case it is possible to find a faulty CCU by visually inspecting the board or by testing the module at component level.

For safety reasons some of the operations proposed in the tip are suitable only for a trained technician. Always ensure that power is turned off while inspecting and maintaining the appliance.

Good luck

Ginko.

on Jan 12, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Samsung front load washer code d5


The D5 error is actually DS. The code means the washer thinks the door is open or unlocked during the cycle. the problem is related to faulty door locking assembly.There is a switch in back of door, if this fails it wont work. God-Bless!

Nov 06, 2015 | Samsung Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water keeps clicking of after 5 sec same with draining water and drum wont sprin


Hi Robert.

If the machine fills with water and cycle starts but it does not spin and drain, then possible problems are drain hose, drain filter, pressure switch and less frequently pump.

Before advancing to spin the timer board performs a test on drain part of the cycle, stops the drain and checks the door lock. Drain system, pressure switch and lid switch are all parts that if defective may cause no spin.

The first part to be tested is the drain system. This must be checked regardless of the fact that the pump is working. If there is blockage, residual water in the drain system or water flowing back from drain hose may cause the washer not detecting that drain is complete, and not advancing to spin.

Disconnect power and check the drain system, accessing drain filter and hose connected to the drain pump.
In most front loaders this is accessed removing the trim at the base of the front side of the appliance (under the door), and rotating the filter cap counterclockwise. The filter should be located behind the trim at the base of the washer.
Top loader usually offer access to pump either from back or from the bottom of the appliance. In some case (eg.Kenmore top load) you have to lean the machine forware to gain access to the bottom part of the unit, where the pump is located.

After opening the pump hose cover be prepared to collect a good amount of water. Keep a container at hand. Ensure that power is not connected before starting.

Also double check drain hose at the back of the appliance, and check that the elbow height is as prescribed in manual. Incorrect drain hose settings may result in syphoning, that means water is flowing back from drain hose into the washer tube. This may result in no spin.

After performing the check on the drain system test washer again. Sometimes removing eventual blockage in drain pump may fix this kind of problem.

If the pump is draining, but drain doesn't complete, and if there is no blockage in drain lines, a parts that may be causing the no-spin problem are pressure switch and door latch switch.

The door latch switch is checked by electronic control before advancing to spin. The door switch is tested running a cycle with the door switch contacts jumped. If the model has a lock motor more testing is needed. In that case the switch is tested ensuring that the lock motor impedance reads according to specifications and energizing the lock motor.

If the drain stops always at same point and cycle does not advance replace also the pressure switch. The pressure switch detects water level and determines when drain is over and when to advance to spin. This part is difficult to test in full, the part is not expensive and it is usually replaced without testing. Pressure switch is a common failure causing no spin. If drain is OK, then either pressure switch or lid switch/lock system is usually responsible.

If the above is OK , with top loaders you need to add to the list the problems related to motor and transmission. In front loaders, check problems related to motor and motor control unit. Such problems will be near to the end of the troubleshooting list. Check them before deciding to replace the electronic control.

Always disconnect power cord or trip the circuit breaker before performing maintainance operations.

If you need to contact a qualified technician, call the phone number listed on the owners manual.

To find parts give me the model number or click on the link below, select distributor and enter your model number.

Parts and diagrams

Regards.

Ginko

Dec 04, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Model fwt645rhso will agitate but won't drain out, on spin cycle washer spins one way, stops goes back the other way, but water will not drain out. Does not rapidly spin on final cycle. Any...


There's an auxiliary switch in the door lock.switch assembly that is activated at the end of the wash cycle for the machine to advance to the spin cycle. The machine will NEVER advance to the spin cycle unless the auxiliary switch is activated as a safety feature to prevent the door from opening during a high-speed spin cycle that may result in physical injury. The drum tumbles back and forth while the machine control checks the auxiliary if activated but since it's not, the control will not command the motor speed control to spin the drum at high speed. These symptoms may indicate a faulty door lock/switch assembly and may need replacement. Click on the links below for the detailed troubleshooting instructions and replacement of the door lock/switch assembly.

Electrolux and Frigidaire Washers Door Lock/Switch Assembly Troubleshooting

Replacing the Door Lock/Switch Assembly on Electrolux and Frigidaire Washers

Jun 18, 2011 | Frigidaire GSTF1670A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

A few times the washer water drained but cloths were what we thought still to wet.I tried a spin cycle and it was not working.I then turned the auger a few time and retried.It then started to work.I have...


Try checking the small button under the washers loading door. If you open the door, under it there should be a switch or button looking sticks out. This offen breaks off. If the switch does not work it will not let the spin cycle run - you know when you open the washer when its running and the spin cycle turns off until you close the door again - thats the switch.
Costs about $3.00 east to install with a screw driver
hope thats the problem - aloha

Feb 13, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a frigidaire affinity front loader washer that the final spin cycle won't work on. The rest of the wash cycle is fine and the basket spins for the other cycles just not the spin cycle. It is also...


There is an auxiliary switch in the door lock and switch assembly that is activated at the end of the wash cycle for the machine to advance to the spin cycle. This is a safety feature to prevent the door from opening during the spin cycle and the machine will not spin unless the switch is activated. The machine works except advancing to the spin cycle and this signifies that the auxiliary switch cannot be activated and the door lock and switch assembly is faulty. Replaced the door lock and switch assembly (part #131763202) to address the issue.

Disconnect power to the machine. Open the washer door then look for the retaining hoop securing the door seal around the lip of the door opening. Stretch the retainer spring of the door seal retaining hoop then remove it.
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Carefully peel off part of the door seal from the lip of the door opening near the door lock and switch assembly. Remove enough of the door seal to gain access to the door lock and switch assembly.
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Remove the screws securing the door lock and switch assembly to the front panel. Once the screws are removed, lift the door lock and switch assembly then pull it away from the front panel.
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Take the door lock and switch assembly out of the machine. Disconnect the electrical connections then connect it to the new door lock and switch assembly.
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Put the new door lock and switch assembly back into position in the front panel and secure it with the securing screws.

Properly put the eased part of the door seal back over the lip of the door opening then secure it with the retaining hoop.

Jul 13, 2010 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer is acting erratic. spin cycle works sometimes. stops half way through cycle sometimes. got a new belt. what's next? pump or timer. both are spendy $ thanks. frigidaire FTR630ASO


The control monitors the door lock prior to and during the spin cycle as a safety feature. The washer will not advance to the spin cycle when the door lock is not activated and stops when the lock is deactivated during the spin cycle.

In your case, the door lock is working intermittently causing the washer to spin intermittently. This is probably due to a faulty door lock and switch assembly or poor connection at the control board or at the assembly itself. Replace the door lock and switch assembly if necessary.

Apr 06, 2010 | Washing Machines

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