Question about Ryobi Garden
Ryobi weed wasp
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Broken starter ropes or failure to retract are both repairs that are fairly easy. However, the spring can be nasty as it is under tension (or should be when reassembled). This can be risky if you are not familiar with the internal construction as you disassemble the unit.
The cause of a broken cord is obvious. The cause for a failure to retract could be a broken spring, tangled or frayed rope, or some other mechanical failure. A broken spring will require total disassembly of the starter mechanism - fortunately there really isn't that much involved.
With some designs, it is possible to replace the cord without fully disassembling the starter mechanism - by threading the cord in and tying a not in the end - but after rotating it several turns to put the proper tension on the spring. This is relatively safe but may be frustrating as 3 hands are sometimes needed.
Where safe disassembly is not obvious, I would recommend that you refer to a book on lawn mower or small engine repair from the library or the service manual for the mower, if possible. You may be able to find specific step-by-step instructions which will minimize your risk of injury from an encounter with an uncontrolled spring.
When the rope pulls out and retracts normally - but doesn't do anything else - the most likely cause is a problem with the one-way clutch. This may be part of the spring-rope assembly - usually removable as a unit - or attached to the flywheel. The most common problems are gummed up lubrication or a broken spring or other damaged or worn parts.
anyway... there is a torx screw in the middle of the clutch drum(metal part that rotates).you will need to use a piston stop,to stop the engine turning while trying to undo the torx screw. i am assumig the starter is in front of the engine not at the back. once the screw is undone the clutch will come off and so will the starter cover.(source: neil)
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Posted on Mar 19, 2009
You need a long skinny T25 torque driver (sold in a pack at Lowe's with 3 other sizes.)
Take off the 4 screws in the back to reveal the piston. Get a wooden dowel (or a wooden spoon if your wife isn't around) and stick it in to the piston to block it from spinning.
Now take that T25 and stick it in to the front pulley (cone shaped silver item that is preventing the housing from coming off) turn to the left and it should come off.
That should come off to reveal about a 1"x1.5" piece with a spring wrapped around it. That can also turn to the left and come off with an adjustable wrench or pliers.
Once that is off the housing should come away and you'll be able to get at the pull cord after removing 4 more T25 screws.
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
You should be able to take the housing loose with about 4-6 torx head bolts/screws and get in there and untangle the rope. May not even have to take the housing off, just loosen it. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
This is an ongoing issue for users, and rightfully so. Small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Years ago on 2-stroke trimmers, primers were not even used,...you choked the carb with a slide lever and gravity let fuel enter the carb from above...a few pulls, a "pop"...slide it off of choke and away you went.
If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.
Posted on Jul 10, 2010
Sounds like it is running on the prime. Check the fuel filter in the tank and if it looks clogged or dark, replace it. If that is not it, now is the time to consider a carburetor clean and rebuild, with a replacement of fuel lines and primer bulb. Today's ethenol in gas is murder on small engine soft components.
Posted on Sep 14, 2011
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