Question about Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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FISHER PAYKEL WASHER GWL11 WONT FILL TANK

HELLO AND THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP,, PUMP WENT OUT, CAUSED CONTROL BOARD TO FAIL, I HAVE BOUGHT BOTH NEW PARTS, AND REPLACED,, I'VE WENT THRU A COUPLE OF CODES AND RESET,, BUT IT WONT FILL TANK,, WATER IS COMING IN ,, AND THE PUMP IS TAKING IT BACK OUT BEFORE IT WASHES ,,, WHAT CODE DO I NEED ??? OR IS SOMETHING ELSE BROKEN ???? THANKS,,

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  • 554 Answers

Check your diverter valve is in right and working.
Energized valve, water goes over bowl.
Non Energized valve water goes down the drain.

Posted on Dec 26, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: my fisher paykel eco smart is GWL11 not GWL15

00110001 CODE 49 COLD VALVE FAULTY
1 FILTER IN HOSE AT TAP END CLOGGED OR FILTER IN VAVE AT MACHINE END OF HOSE CHECK THESE FIRST .
2 SOLENOID OPEN CIRCUIT OR BECOMING OPEN CIRCUIT WHEN HOT.
3 CONTROLLER NOT SUPPLYING VOLTAGE TO SOLENOID.
TRY THINGS IN THIS ORDER AND GOOD LUCK

Posted on Jul 03, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Slow fill on cold water/Fisher&Paykel GWL11

Assuming you have already done what you said you have done, now it is time to do some real troubleshooting.(Dont worry, if you have gone this far you'll be able to do what I'm going to tell you)

First take the lid off. To do this, open it, and lift up on one side, it should come right off. Now take the control panel cover off. There are two screws on the back side of the washer holding it on. You'll need to wiggle it a bit to get it off. Once the cover is off you should find a plastic bag with a "service" sheet in it. The service sheet explain how to put the machine into the "Test Mode". This is very easy to do and will allow you to check out all functions. One of the test, allows you to check the cold water inlet valve. Assuming your water pressure is good and you have indeed cleaned the screen filter going into the machine you will most likely find that the cold water valve is not opening all the way and will need to be replaced. If your handy with a phillips screwdriver you only have two more screws to take out and the valve assembly will come right out.
Don't think you can swap out the hot water valve with the cold water valve. Fisher Paykel, clever as they are made sure you can't do that. One is a proportional valve and the other is a digital valve. They both look identical but they are not!
If your going to do the repair yourself (you've come this far, why not see it through to conclusion), be sure when you call Fisher/Paykel to order the cold water inlet valve that you give them the serial number of your machine to be sure you get the correct part.
Good Luck!

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GWL11 Leaking water

If you cannot see the water leaking from the inlet valves, check the seal just above the water pump located directly under the drum. I am in the midst of awaiting parts to fix this very thing on my FP GWL11. This leak is dripping water directly onto the motor, causing it to trip the circuit breaker during drain/spin cycles.

Note... I have also had to have the inlet valve assembly replaced as well as it was not opening to allow cold water to mix with the hot.

Hope this helps.

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: washer will not drain

90% chance that is the pump is pumping water at all, there is blockage between the tub and the drain pump. If there is no water coming out of the drain line. either extremely clogged(odd) or pump motor is bad, and windings are not allowing rotation.

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: squealing

more than likely going to be hard to get the pump it is on back order through the company

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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Feb 22, 2012 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

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Jan 17, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

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Both of you most likely are getting a "RPS Sensor Fault"
On a GWL10, when the motor rotor position sensor fails, it will act exactly like you describe. Many techs incorrectly replace the machine control or the water inlet valve(s). The RPS sensor is much cheaper. If you consult the tech sheet located under the control panel, you will see the fault code for RPS failure and I would bet the farm that the sequence of LEDs displayed when your washer faults out matches exactly with the RPS fault code.

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