Question about Washing Machines
Washer will not spin dry but motor is running... how can I open to check if the belt is OK...
SOURCE: kenmore washer
If your washer is not spinning fast enough, or barely spinning at all, this is usually a symptom of any one or all of the following: 1. Bad gearcase (transmission). 2. Bad basket drive, with which the transmission couples to under the agitator. 3. Bad clutch/brake assembly. Which mounts on top of the gearcase under the basket drive. Usually a tell tale sign of a gearcase beginning to fail is the sign of an amber colored oil coated under the washer or inside the casing. I said, "usually". It doesn't always happen, but if you notice any signs of oil, the gearcase is shot. The basket drive and clutch assemblies are harder to diagnose and require some disassembly of the washer and the removal of the gearcase to inspect. Let me know if this helps.
Posted on Aug 02, 2007
i think you will find the carbon brushes r worn out they r mounted on the side of the motor held on by 2 5.5mm nuts or 2 screws 1 brush on each side of the motor switch off at the mains b4 you start work good luck
Posted on Aug 19, 2007
I have the same washer, WT-R801. Does the machine stop all together when the spin cycle arrives?, if so check the pump on the drain. Mine was burnt out. Its available for $61.00 delivered from Adelaide. Steve.
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
SOURCE: GE washing machine, wont spin
Same problem (but without any smell). You should try to reset the two computer boards in the washer. You do this by 1) unplugging machine and wait for 30 secs; 2) plug in machine; and 3) open and fully close the lid at least 5 times. This resets computer boards, which can get messed up by power surges, etc.
Posted on Sep 04, 2008
The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve
Posted on Jan 17, 2010
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