I used my table saw to rip a few pieces of wood a few days ago, normal work, nothing fancy. Then today I went to use it and when I turned it on it sounds super loud. What could the problem be? The blade looks fine and turns, it just sounds louder than normal.
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Re: My table saw will turn on, but sounds very loud
Possibly bearing wear, or the blade rubbing against the guard/housing. Unplug the saw and spin the blade slowly by hand, if it feels notchy then I would suggest bearing wear. if it only seems to feel notchy in places then it could also be damaged gears.
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If I understood correctly, you started using your husband's table saw and while ripping boards, you managed to stall out the blade AND motor?! If that's the case, you probably have a very dull blade and are binding your board on the blade. Neither is safe and it sounds like trouble is brewing.
First and foremost, get someone to show you how to safely and properly use and adjust the saw if you are new to wood working and power tools. That saw is capable of turning your lumber into a high speed missal if you do things improperly.
It also sounds like you tried installing a new 10" saw blade. Changing the blade requires 2 wrenches. One to hold the arbor and one to tighten the nut. The blade itself should rest on the arbor between two large washers. Also make sure you install the blade so the front face of the cutter teeth face you and rotate toward you. Make sure the saw is unplugged when changing the blade and never turn on your saw with a loose blade.
Are you operating the saw on a 10 amp circuit or with a long extension cord? Table saws need at least a 15 amp circuit and should not be used with an extension cord. If absolutely necessary the extension cord should be no less than 12 guage. Tabel saws will run OK on a 10 amp circuit but as soon as you apply a load (try to cut wood) the power requirements go up to keep the saw turning. If you can, plug it into another outlet on a higher capacity circuit breaker or at least closer to the breaker box. If it still pops the breaker you may have bearing problems in the motor that are creating too much friction. This would make the motor work harder to turn so it would draw excessive power and trip the breaker.
no, will never happen. Make yourself a jig, 1/4" plywood set on your table top woth a small brad set 4" from blade. make a tiny hole in board to be cut into circle, spin the board on the brad, and look a wagon wheel.
I just turn it upside down and put it in the slot so that the gage rests against the edge of the table. Then tighten the locking knob. This should give you an instant accurate setting as long as the slot in the table is very close to dead-on square with the slot - which it should be. But to verify that it is, just turn the square back right side up and hold a flashlight under it as you hold it very close to the table edge. If the table edge is out of square with the table slot, you will easily see this because the error will be doubled by turning the gage over.
By the way, if the rails for your rip fence are in the way, the rails may be parallel enough to the edge of the table to be of no concern. Or you can put a piece of wood with parallel sides on top of the rail between the edge of the table and the upside-down gage.
Another easy confirmation is to use a square to draw a line (with a sharp pencil) on a piece of plywood that has a good edge. Flip that square over to confirm that your square is square. Then you can put your miter gage upside down on the plywood to check it against the line.
What I would check for and follow closely, is UNPLUG tool turn blade by hand to make sure it turns freely, there could be a piece of offcut wood jamming the blade. then turn it on its back or however you can to see about cleaning with compressed air, check the cord condition for breaks if all the above checks out and sounds like you have tried different power sources you have an electrical short and troubleshooting this is involved.
It all depends on how much patience you have. It will cut ok, if you feed slowly and use a rip blade to rip with instead of a combination blade. (Buy one with only 36 teeth or 40 teeth). A sharp blade is always a lot easier and safer to use than that old rusty thing that is trying to grind its way through a piece of 2X. Another tip you might try is to put a coat of paste wax on the blade before you start. It will help if there's a lot of pitch building up as you cut.
Otherwise, more hp will be less likely to bog down and overheat, and will allow you to push through denser and harder woods without the danger of overpowering the motor. But even then, a sharp rip blade is a wonder and a joy to use!
The reset button is normally a thermal overload, using a bio-metallic strip to break the circuit. If it is old or has popped a few times it might have 'weakened' abit. Try replacing the thermal/reset button. If it still happens then something might be overheating and causing the problem.