Question about Toshiba Satellite Computers & Internet
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Gowalia, it's going to be a fight without removing the front panel. This is the easiest and not that hard. Remove the top, by removing the 3 screws in the rear. The top will slide off toward the back. Next remove the control panel. Remove the 2 screws on each end on top. Remove the detergent drawer. Remove the torq screws behind the detergent drawer. The control panel will now snap off, pulling from the top and lifting up. Once freed, remove the control panel ribbon cable from the side of the main board. Now remove the screws holding the door switch mechanism in place. Remove the spring that holds the outer part of the boot from the front panel. Now remove the 4 quarter inch screws that hold the front panel and door on the front. Now you can install the new boot with ease. I know it sounds like a lot, but it is not that bad. Just reverse the process when the boot is on the tub. Make sure to have the mark on the boot ^ lined up with the mark on the tub on top. Catriver.
Posted on Sep 06, 2007
probably some rubberize installation are screw to the case or body/ you only need pollout are screw driver philips or flat .
Posted on Jan 10, 2008
posted on Jan 24, 2008
Rating: 0%, 0 votes
Replace the front bellow or front seal, as it may be called. It is an inner tube shaped rubber liner that seals between the front of the washer door and the front of the drum. The cost is about $35.00-$40.00 and you will need the kit as it includes the rubber spacers that are essential to doing the job. The job takes about 1 1/2 hours to complete. It is not hard, but it is dedious and requires some basic skills. Directions included in the kit are helpful. You can do an internet search for the part and many appliance parts shops will carry the part. Do a search for appliance parts in your area and see if they carry that part on line, or you can call them tomorrow. I imagine a pair of strong hands would help as you seperate the outer groove that goes into the drum lip, then replace the spring that holds it in place there.
Posted on Jan 24, 2008
I need to replace a baffle from inside my Elite HE3T. Do you have directions? Only 1 came off but when I order the new one apparently it only comes in 3, so show I replace the other 2 as well? (if I can figure out how)
Of course the part did not come with any! And Sears customer service is of no help and the technical people have not responded to me.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
This problem can be caused by either a leaking water inlet valve, or a condition known as "siphoning". Since you just recently moved, I would make sure you don't have a siphoning problem, first. The following link explains how:
Although siphoning normally refers to a constant drain problem where a washer has problems maintaining the proper water level, it can also lead to problems where the drain line will back up into the washer.
Now, if you follow the advice in the link and determine this is NOT caused by siphoning, I would suspect that you have a water inlet valve that is leaking. A tell-tale sign will be water trickling down the fill tube in the rubber door bellow. The water inlet valves have a diaphragm that is controlled by an electric solenoid. Sometimes the valve becomes clogged with sediment or deposits, causing the diaphragm not to close properly. If you live in an area that has hard water, or use well water, you may have hard water deposits or rust build up in the valve. You may be able to correct the problem by removing the valve and cleaning it with some distilled vinegar. You can remove the valve by following these steps:
1. Unplug the washer and turn off water supply at the taps.
2. Disconnect the water inlet hoses.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The inlet valve (this is what your water inlet hoses connect to) will be located in the left rear of the washer (facing from the front). Remove the dispenser hose(s) from the valve and the electric connections. Remember how the electrical connections are removed. They should be color coded. One is for HOT, one is for COLD.
5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the assembly in place.
Once you have the inlet valve removed, you can place it in some distilled vinegar and let it soak. Just don't submerge the electrical connections. If this does not correct your problem, replace the valve. Searspartsdirect.com and repairclinic.com are two notable web sites that I have frequently used. Just type in your complete model number to begin the parts search.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 23, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE5t Washer
Jan 29, 2011 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Nov 29, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Aug 29, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Dec 03, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Jul 16, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Jul 16, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Jan 24, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
Jan 17, 2007 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
22 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!