Question about Food Processors
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have ordered a replacement
Remove the pusher sleeve and lid from the work bowl first, then slide the work bowl out of the locked position. At this point, the stem should be exposed.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
I wrote in December with my problem and went on the web sites mentioned. A cover only cost $69.00. A new bowl and cover was $99.00. I only needed the cover. The new cover did not work and I ended up going to Macy's when they had the DLC-8S on sale for $99.00 and bought a new one. I took my blades with me and they fit the new machine. DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY (unless you find an old machine at a yard sale) THE PARTS COSTS AS MUCH AS A NEW MACHINE ON SALE. ees
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
Initial disclaimer: I am not recommending this course of action - my recommendation is to buy a new food processor. These units weren't designed for DIY repair, so this is going to be a difficult task. The final product probably isn't even going to be pretty. You are well out-of-warranty, or I wouldn't even consider posting this. First, make sure you have a DLC-7E shaft - the only way to get one at this point would be to buy a DLC-7E base from eBay or an after-market seller, as all of these were manufactured well over 20 years ago. I don't currently see any eBay listings for one, but they do crop up from time-to-time. Make sure the DLC-7E you are repairing and the old one from which you are wrenching the old shaft are unplugged and have been unplugged for an hour or longer just to be on the safe side. Unscrew the four screws on the bottom of the base on both units. If the bottom base does not come off after this, carefully pry out the four feet and unscrew any hidden screws that might be hidden underneath the feet (Careful - original feet cannot be ordered by normal means, and damage will only add to your total repair cost). Take note of the guts on the inside of both food processor bases - if you have to unscrew the motor body (4 screws that sit just underneath the top of the base), take note of everything that you are taking out so that you can put it back in its proper place when done. Wear leather gloves for safety. Please be aware that even an unplugged unit still has the potential to send several volts of electricity through your body - this is a potentially hazardous task. Once the motor body has been unscrewed and removed slightly (don't disconnect any wires or cables - just get the motor body out of your way), you will notice the old shaft that you intend on replacing. Look for any damage to the gears/bearing that surround this shaft. Try dabbing a small amount of USP-grade mineral oil on any bearings - clear away any dust or debris that may be obstructing the shaft from turning. Don't overapply the oil, or the wetness will seep into other electronic components in the motor and cause them to fail. Put your food processor back together, turn it on, and press the button/buttons on top of the base of the food processor with a pen with the food processor plugged in. If the shaft still won't turn, you definitely need to replace the old shaft (you can disregard some of these previous steps if your problem is that the spindle on the old shaft is worn).
Remove the screws and disassemble the processor base as described above. Since there is a layer of paint/coating surrounding the old motor shaft, removing the old shaft may cause paint flecking. Take the shaft from the one food processor base and insert it in the food processor you are trying to repair. Strip away any excess paint/coating from the new shaft. Make sure no paint flakes remain in the body of the food processor, or they will later cause more serious problems that will permanently damage your food processor - potential fire hazard as well. You will probably notice that the new shaft does not look as pretty as your original shaft, since the paint/coating will almost invariably get damaged in this process. Reassemble the base of the food processor, making sure no wires, etc. were knocked out of place in the process. This paint flecking will add to the cost of the repair - you may need to buy appliance body paint that dries to almost a rubbery consistency to make the final project look nice. All of the materials listed above could cost you $40 or more.
Like I said, I don't reccomend this course of action, but there's your answer.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
SOURCE: replace the motor shaft cover
I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.
To remove the sheath I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately ½ inch sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get ALL of the white plastic off and be sure to remove the ½ inch brass "ring" which is part of the old sheath. Also, make sure no plastic "crumbs" are in the base of the shaft where the new sheath will sit. You will see that the metal shaft has a flat side. With a sharpie marker, mark the metal shaft near the base to indicate where the center of the flat side is.
When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs", these nubs form a flat inner side of the sheath . Unfortunately these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections. Use a sharpie marker to mark the center point of the two inner nubs. The inner flat side HAS to match up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft. The marker helps you do that.
Line the inner flat side of the sheath up with the flat side of the metal shaft and push the sheath on your hand as far as it will go. It should go about an inch from the base.
Put the base on a mat on the floor ( you don't want to damage your floor) . Next you will need a hammer, piece of 2x4 wood and BRUTE STRENGHT! - Please note that once you hammer this, even just one strike and the sheath will NOT come off. Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath. Using more force than you think you should need - strike the wood to hammer the sheath all the way down. It should take 3 - 5 very hard strikes. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it. Again, it takes a LOT
I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.
Posted on Dec 28, 2010
The shaft is spinning inside the sleeve. So is should not be hard to
remove. With a DLC-7SP, I grabbed the spindle with some pliers, channel
locks might do well and put a handle of a screwdriver between the pliers
and the top deck and pried. Second attempt and it pulled up easily.
Place the screwdriver beside one of the top deck screw covers to
transfer force directly to the motor. Otherwise top deck would probably
Clean the old shaft to remove any contamination.
New one can be driven on with a hammer and block of wood.
Posted on Jan 29, 2011
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