Hi. My very elderly amplifier has recently developed an issue where it's now outputting great sound from one speaker, but barely any from the other. Balance is set ok, and if i swap the speaker connections at the back of the amp, then the opposite speaker is affected, so i know the speakers themselves and the speaker wires are ok. Not knowing anything at all about it's internal workings, i was wondering if anyone could advise me if it would be worth taking to a repair shop? It's unlikely parts would still be available, but it did have great sound, and if possible I'd love to be able to get it fixed. Many thanks in advance...
The top link to the illustration, shows a basic schematic of the workings of the 'Pot'. The bottom link to the photo, shows an example of the 'Pot'. The object to the right that has three wires going to it.
Looking at the illustration note the circle in the middle, and the line issuing from it. This represents the movable sliding contact, that is connected to the stem. The knob you turn is connected to the stem.
The problem may be a $4 Potentiometer. Easily replaceable by you if you have basic skills.
2) However the problem could be further. More than likely it's Electrolytic Capacitors that have broken down.
Electrolytic Capacitors have a chemical paste inside them. Electrolytic Paste.
This paste breaks down over time. When it does it produces a gas. (Hydrogen Gas) The gas expands inside the capacitor, and breaks seals. When this transpires paste will ooze out of the capacitor, and the capacitor fails.
Electrolytic Capacitors are the weakest link in an electronic circuit. Designed to be. Engineers know that the capacitor will break down as time goes on, and use capacitors that are rated 2 times, as much as what is needed.
This way when the capacitor breaks down to 50 percent good, it is still 100 percent good for the circuit it is in.
The Electrolytic Capacitors that are used are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors. May, or may not have Axial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.
(With the Radial design, both leads, Positive and Negative, come out of the same end. With the Axial design each lead comes out of an end,
Testimonial: "Amplifier now working perfectly!! Turned out to be just the potentiometer, and thank you Joe for the links to the wiring diagrams. Didn't do it myself eventually,( was afraid of wrecking it completely) but a friend of mine with more knowledge than me sorted it from your links. Have saved the other information you provided for future reference, you're a star!!"
Testimonial: "Thank you so much for your help, it would certainly be worth fixing then if that's what it'll cost. Would the repair depend on obtaining original spare parts do you think? The amplifier is nearly 30 yrs old, so I would doubt if these would be available. Thanks again..."
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Make sure that your speakers on set are turned on. If they are and still no sound then you have developed a problem with the audio board and/or amplifier.
If you have audio outputs check to see if you can feed that output to an external amp. If the external amp works then the issue is with the internal amp of your tv. If external does not work either then the problem lies with the audio circuits that precede the amp of your tv..
Your Gamer 2 Amp turns on whenever an audio signal is present on the input. The amp can have trouble tuning on if the output of the source (computer sound card, etc.) has been turned down. This can happen easily if you use amplified speakers - if you turn the sound card's volume control down - and then increase the volume at the amplified speaker - the resulting sound is the same; even though the signal has been lowered. The problem is that the output from the sound card isn't sufficient to turn on the Gamer 2 Amp.
Try turning down the external speaker volume, then bump up the sound card volume. You'll probably need to adjust the other inputs individually (Wave, Mic, CD, etc) so that none is too loud or soft. Once the input values have been set, gradually increase the output of the sound card in the control panel application etc. while decreasing the volume on the amplified speaker to maintain a comfortable level. Eventually, you'll find the correct volume level on the sound card output that will wake up the Gamer 2 Amp.
If you're still having trouble, review the manual, here. I hope this helps & good luck!
This is likely due to a problem with the amplifier. You may have turned up the amp to the point of overdriving the speaker. The distortion at these high levels cause clipping and turn what was once crisp, clear sound into a muddied, garbled mess.
If the speaker is left connected to that source long enough, damage to the speaker and the amp may occur.
Without changing positions of the speakers: You can disconnect the affect Front or Rear L & R speakers and swap them (connect the L speaker to the R output of the amp and vice-versa). If the buzzing / hum "moves" to the other speaker, then the amplifier has the problem. If the buzzing / hum stays with the same speaker, the speaker has issues and is likely "blown".
Either way, it is probably not going to be a "cheap fix"
1) can happen if the speaker is dying - voice coil defective or magnet needs recharging. happens sometimes with low quality speakers.
2) faulty pre-amp section can reduce overall gain resulting in lower output volume. 3) for old amps dry solders in pre-amp & power amp section can have the same effect. 4) faulty coupling and filter capacitors can severely effect frequency response too.
Yes, the Kenwood KDC MP-235 has two (2) line level outputs (RCA types red & white). However, these outputs internally passed through an electronic crossover/filter making them appropriate for subwoofer amps only.
If your unit is an MP-235CR, then the same outputs would be for the rear amp (not subs) and are full range (unfiltered).
If indeed your unit is an MP-235 and if I may make a suggestion, still connect the Kenwood to four (4) speakers. It would not be technically correct to leave the internal amps operating with no load (speakers) connected. Additionally, you would be getting 200 watts (4 X 50) more to your system (since it is already there).
If your Bose amp & speaker are subs, then no issue, however if the Bose is for a full range of speakers, then only the woofer part would be working efficiently.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
I often troubleshoot these issues via a stereo head set, modify the leads so you can "Touch" them onto the Speakers Output Terminals, connect the "Shields" together, thats "Earth" and the other Two, are Left & Right... with the Amp's volume turned to about 25% volume, connect up the Earth wires to the Chassis with a clip, under a srew etc, just make good contact... then touch the Left & right wires onto the output, ya should hear sound... if not most probably the Output device(s) may have gone faulty.