I had a repair man out here the other day, he was here 15 minutes and told me the circuit board was bad. I questioned his diagnosis, especially when he wanted over $500 to repair. I went on the internet and found a replacement board for it and installed it myself. Much to my surprise, the furnace did the same thing. I checked the exhaust vent and looked around the vent pipe and saw some like white or salty deposits around the pipe vent joint. It looked like ash. I disconnected the pipe and vacuumed around the vent and tried the furnace, this time it started up and ran fine until I tapped on the vent pipe looking for looseness then the flame went out and went into shutdown mode. Any suggestions?
The problem sounds like it is with your combustion fan motor,,,there are two types. one has a syntrifical swith the others have a round box with a hose going to it that is a pressure switch, if it is the motor does not have a rubber hose coming off and has two wires instead than that is syntrifical and your only shot would be to take the moter loose and shake it out make sure there is not something that fell down in and kept it from turning, other wise u have to replace. by the way it will be the small motor at the base of the vent pipe. If it is the hose type try unplugging the two wires from the little round box that the hose goes to and connect them together if it runs by bypassing that then either the switch is out or something is plugging the hole or hose,,on the side of the blower moter where the hose comes out try poking something through the hole and make sure it is not clogged I bet this is the kind u have and the problem. good luck
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Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement.
Here are the Sony blink codes. I would download the service
manual for your set from one of the sites that advertise here to verify
this. If a vertical circuit failure is correct, that is a very
affordable fix at any repair shop.
Unit is dead, No blinks - Problem in the standby power section. Might check fuse, R607, Q601, IC601, R612 and VDR601 (should show open).
Continuous blink once a second, no pausing - No reply from the jungle IC301 (data bus is busy, shorted to ground, or held high), IK video path is defective.
One blink - not used for the self-diagnosis
- B+ over current protection (OCP), unit goes to the standby mode then
displays the 2 blink fault. Could be a short in the power supply of any
of the circuits.
Three blinks - B+
over voltage protection (OVP), unit goes to the standby mode then
displays the 3 blink fault. This is also a problem in the power supply
circuit, check T603 and R672.
Four blinks - No vertical Deflection (V STOP), Screen goes to a single horizontal line then the video signal muted. Check IC1509, Q1505
- AKB circuit (automatic kine bias), the timer/standby indicator blinks
for about 30 seconds then goes to the self-diagnosis function.
Something is wrong with the video. Check video out, Q705, 732, 761 and
other components on the C board, also check Q218, 219, 220 on the A
board. In addition, unit could be in IK blanking, try turning up screen
Six blinks - No Horizontal
(H STOP), no raster, goes to the blinking self-diagnosis function
immediately. Check C515 & 516 and the jungle IC, IC206.
- High voltage shutdown. The high voltage has exceeded 33k and the unit
goes immediately into safety shutdown. Check power supply regulation
and horizontal circuits.
- Problem with the audio (AUDIO), unit goes to standby and blinks the
self-diagnosis code. Check IC406 audio amp, PS401, and 402. On some
projection models of Sony TV sets, this code means that T8005 (flyback
transformer), or the associative components in the high voltage
circuits are defective on the D board.
- Replace D 6116 and D 6301 on the "G" board, do not resolder as this
will fix the problem temporary. Or Panel Module Error or Thermal Error.
If it is intermittent 9 blinks, meaning sometimes the TV comes on and
other times you get flashing, then change the switching regulator on
the "G" board or check connections. Make sure the regulator is -12 or
Ten blinks -
Check Q8014 and Q8013 for shorts, leakage, or bad solder connections on
the " D" board. If the transistors are bad, check R8051 and IC8005,
also on the "D" board.
It sounds that there is any loose solder terminals at the main board, especially with the vertical scan output section circuit. It will be best to contact any service technician to get it repaired. Gopakumar Gopalan Google
Three blinks to standby light to Sony LCD TVs, denotes a fault with its main power regulator board. If the set is in warranty period, contact the authorized service centre. If you wish to know more about this fault, http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/ check this link. Pull up older posts there, either by its left side bar, or
see it in Timslide option.
Need your model # to check the codes but, this coming back on after turning the t-stat off is rare. You may have been in a lockout and the furnace re-started. Some furnaces try to start three times , then lock out. Time out, then re-start. The codes should be on your furnace blower door. Write back with this info and i could help.
Try calling Samsung.... Purchased samsung SMH8165ST in Oct 2009. have had the SE code problem for a few month now. Resetting worked at first. Then the light started flasing on & off along with the beeping...would not reset. Out of frustration I called Samsung. I was told they are aware of the problem & would repair in the "epidemic warranty". Repair man just left. It took him about 15 minutes to change out the keypad. No charge!!
Replace the thermostat control sounds like the control contacts are not holding since you cleaned the bulb and the igniter is working the only other issue is the thermal buld being bad, shut it off heat the bulb for three minuts then quickly turn it back on and see if it stays on longer if it does the bulb is the problem.
I can almost guarantee that the circuit board(s) have bad capacitors on them. I repaired one last week that had 20 bad capacitors on 4 boards.
Fixed one the week before with 15 bad caps on two boards.
A repair shop may be able to replace the boards, but it may be expensive.
- I hope my diagnosis is wrong-
Normally, this happens when the TV detects a bad circuit board and goes into " Protection Mode ". The blinking red light should be a error trouble code. I don't have the Service Manual on hand for your model number to tell you what the code means.Most likely the TV has a power supply related problem. It's possible that it maybe a bad capacitor or transformer on the power supply board. But, I can't say it's 100% the problem because I can't actually look at the tv over the internet. I can only make guesses with the symptoms.
You have a few choices: 1. You can try leaving the TV unplugged for 30 - 45 minutes so the TV can discharge and reset itself. 2. If by chance the TV is still under warranty, go that route. 3. If you have some electronic experience, if you can find and purchase a Service Manual over the internet; It will help you diagnose the source of the problem and fix it by soldering in the new part. The Service Manual will give you red light blinking codes, circuit diagrams, test points, and part# lists.Usually, cost under $20. And most cases the new part cost less than $15. 4. Pay a TV shop to do the repairs. It maybe costly, but get an estimate of how much they will charge. That way you can decide if it worth repairing or replacing the whole TV. I hope I shed some light on the subject for you.