Question about RTO Atwood Water Heater - 6 Gal LP
Board arced burnt out need replacement
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
CHECK THE FUSES AND CIRCUIT BREAKERS IN THE CONVERTER BOX. MAKE SURE THE 110V SWITCH BEHIND THE WATER HEATER IS TURNED ON. IF THERE IS POWER AND "ALL" THE 110V SWITCHES ARE ON, TIME TO OHM OUT THE HEATING ELEMENT, LOCATED UNDER THE BOX BEHIND THE WATER HEATER.
IN ORDER TO HAVE 12V AT THE CIRCUIT BOARD, 112V POWER HAS TO GO THRU THE RELAY. SOUNDS LIKE U HAVE A WIRING PROBLEM SOMWHERE, EITHER AT THE SWITCH OR AT THE WATER HEATER SOMEWHERE.
Posted on Dec 15, 2009
If it has the little thermal cut-off in power wire to thermostat (has a little plastic jacket over it) try removing it, and connect female spade from power wire, directly to male spade on thermostat, and see what happens. Also, make sure electrode is positioned in flame good for flame sensing properly.
Posted on May 26, 2010
Run it on propane and let water heater go through a heating cycle, and when it shuts off, CAREFULLY , pull the lever on the pressure relief valve slightly and see how hot the water feels there. If it's hot there, then it's more than likely a problem with your by-pass valve(s) at the back of the water heater. Either in the wrong position, or faulty, and allowing hot and cold to mix. If in doubt which one it may be, you may be able to remove by-pass set-up completely, depending on what system you have. What the ultimate goal is would be to attach your incoming cold line directly to bottom fitting of water heater, and outgoing hot line, to the top. Not unusual in some systems for one of the shut-offs in between the 2 lines to stay partially open, and allow cold to mix with hot, thus -warm only. If it's not hot at pressure relief valve, then I suspect a faulty thermostat, but that would mean they both (hydro and gas) would have to be faulty which is unlikely.
Posted on Jun 18, 2010
Have you tried temporarily removing the thermal cut-out from the circuit to see if ignites then? It's the little resistor looking thing inside the plastic sleeve/cover that runs to thermostat. Disconnect it from the thermostat terminal, and from wire that is on the other end, and you should be left with a female spade connector at end of that wire. Connect that directly to thermostat terminal where the other part was connected, and try it. If it works, the thermal cut out is no good and needs to be replaced for safety reasons, in case of flame out of control, it blows and shuts gas valve off.
Posted on Jun 24, 2010
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