Re: lcd tv black screen control box no power fix -...
When I looked on the board, they all looked fine so I changed 5 of them chosen arbitrarily (the one that best matched the description on the website) but no success, I will try this week end to change the others (I did not have enough caps). I found a way to test them with a meter but it is hard and unreliable to do it when they are still attached to the circuit:
The best would be to have a meter that can test specifically the caps, but if like me you don't have one, use the Ohm-meter mode to charge them then very quickly switch to volt-meter (be careful not to choose a tension too high that would fry your caps). You should see a tension really quickly dropping if the caps is still linked to the board. I found this technique on the internet, I don't know if it is really reliable.
I will try on this week-end to change the caps of the other kind on the board then I will tell you if I got lucky.
By the way, a few weeks ago when I called polaroid they told me they were about to change their policy about their TV so I think you should check that before you decide to destroy it with an axe or get a new TV.
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I don't think the two problems are related. Have your fuel pressure tested for the bucking, to eliminate the pump as the problem. See if a new fuel filter helps. Check the air filter-if dirty, replace. It could be fuel or ignition related. Maybe a tune-up is in order. If sparkplug wires look old, maybe never replaced, and should be changed now. Or they can be individually tested with an ohm meter to see if still good. The evap code (small leak) has been known to set because of a loose, faulty, or aftermarket gas filler cap. Replace with dealer's oem cap. If that's not it, a shop likely could find the leak with a smoke test-smoke in the evap system will be spotted if leaking-that system runs the length of the car-from engine area to the gas tank. There's also an evap purge solenoid somewhere that may be at fault, IDK the location. Good luck, and I hope you find the problem. I know how bunk it is to get a "new" car and have to immediately start fixing things!
To test a twin ignition coil on a motorcycle you will need a pocket multimeter.
With the meter set to kilo-ohms(1000 ohms) scale,place one test lead into one spark plug cap & the other test lead into the other plug cap.(this is called the ignition coil secondary resistance) The reading should be around 20-40kilo ohms.
If a high reading exists check again with spark plug caps removed(they un screw from the lead) then check caps seperate. Caps typically read 5 to 10 kilo-ohms.
A faulty plug cap is not as un-common as you might think.
To test ignition coil primary resistance set the meter to ohms(lowest scale) Place one meter test lead to the small wire going into the coil & the other test lead onto the coils body(where its metal) The reading should be only 2 to 5 ohms.
Try this to see if helps you figure this out. Try filling up the radiator with water. Start your engine with the radiator cap off look for bubbles the bigger the bubbles the worse the leak. Look for tan colored oil on the dipstick. When oil mixes with water it turn a creamy tan color.
Hi mate sounds like you tested all the standard stuff you obviously know what your doing - In my experience when I get a bike like this where all seemingly is good and set correctly but no sign of life when trying to start 99% of the time ends up being the stator.
And I know it seems strange but I honestly up to about my tenth bike now where even though shows spark at plug when kicked over test, the stator still at fault when tested with Multi meter (way out of spec.)
If you have your repair manual flick through and get the spec ranges for the resistance on your stator then disconnect the stator lead at the CDI end and its very simple set your meter to ohms and plug into each pair of wires (usually 3 pairs) and see what readings you get
don't worry to much if you don't have the spec range as if it is the stator you will quickly notice you get zero reading on one pair of wires if not all three?
let me know if you want more clarification on testing
If all this fails to assist then my advice would a be leak down test to diagnose compression leaks, open valves, gasket leaks etc Then I would pay attention to the pilot circuit of the carbi, Double check your timing and valve clearances, Then I would be back to testing stator again?
Very rarely your coil pack (spark plug cap) can fail but be worth testing it when you have your multi meter out ( you looking for about 0.08 - 0.10 resistance reading on it) and even more rarely the CDI box can fail, no real way to test this apart from plug new one in and test if cures things...
Being that 5-6 years old and you know the bulk of how to fix and maintain this sound more and more like a stator problem..
On the up side if you do need to change the stator great opportunity to change cam chain aswell they run like brand new with full stator power and a brand new cam chain
cheers mate .... Good luck!
I don't know anything about a Marlin. Matter of fact, I don't even know what it is but I know ignition systems. Get a test light or better yet, a DVOM (Digital volt ohm meter). Put the meters function switch in DC volts 50 volt range. Connect the black meter lead to a good ground, turn on the machine's ignition switch. Using the red meter lead or the test light, touch it to one side of the coil and then the other. You should have voltage on the coil. If you have voltage on both sides of the coil and you don't have a spark, you probably have a bad Hall effect sensor in the timer cavity of the engine. Turn the ignition switch off and take the wires off both ends of the coil. Put the meter's function switch in R X 1 scale. Touch one meter lead to each of the coil's primary winding terminals where the wires came off. You should read between 2 and 3 ohms. If not, the coil is bad. Now, find the "hot" wire by turning the ignition switch on and using the meter in the DC volts function to test for voltage. Connect the "hot" wire to one of the primary terminals of the coil. To the other, connect a plain piece of wire that has had the insulation stripped from each end. Turn the ignition switch on and momentarily ground the bare ended wire you connected to the coil. When you take the wire away from ground, breaking the circuit, you should see a spark at the plugs.
There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both. Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced. If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't. Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.
If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.
If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up. Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit. IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).
Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.
I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.
so you seem to know alot or enough to get by on this oven and you have the testing equipment clearly since you gave me the amp reading. 17.25 is just a little to high. Which is prolly why your having a hard time figuring out the problem. The next thing i would check would be the HV transformers. One of them is prolly pulling just to much. They should be somewhat even. Discharge the HV Cap before continuing Unplug the wire coming from the first cap to the transformer at the transformer and then energize the mag current record your amps then plug that one back in and repeat for the other cap and HV transformer hopefully you will notice a big difference in the amps between the two transformers if that didn't work you will need to measure the windings of each transformer of which turbochef will give you this info Also if the oven is working in test mode but not in a true cycle.Run it in a true cycle. Clamp your meter on then power up the oven and run the cycle that blows the fuse.See if the amps spike before the fuse blows These fuses are expensive, too expensive to be blowing testing the oven.Bring the fuse to home depot and buy a bunch from them.There not an exact match, they will be a little short but will work for testing purposes.Once fixed buy the proper fuse from turbochef there around 10 bucks each Good luck and don’t get down that you replaced those parts and its still not working.Most repair company’s replace all those parts anyway.Your typical bill to fix this problem is around 1800.
Do you have a VOM meter? Unplug the set and open the back, the fuse should be easy to find "small glass cylinder with a metel cap on each end. Test it for continuity. If it tests good or shorts again after replaceing then there is a lot of other things that can be wrong. Let us know. If you replace it it is important to use the same exact value which should be written on the board next to it also NEVER jump it with a wire!
Hope this helps.