I put a new ignitor on 2 weeks ago and now the new ignitor doesn't glow. It has the 2 wires to the ignitor so that makes it the glow type? I tested it with a ohms and it read .056 set at X1. If the ignitor is good what else would stop it from at leasted trying to glow. Thanks Mel PS This is not a 62602 Electric Dyer but a Kenmore Gas Dyer, Model # 97310100. I could not send the email unless I picked a product that was on the drop down menu. If you don't not do gas dyers will thanks anyway.
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I HAD THE SAME TROUBLE THIS WEEK-I'VE GOT A KENMORE RANGE WITH ELECTRIC-GAS COMBO AS MOST ARE NOWADAYS. THE TECHNITION THAT CAME DOWN SAID 95% OF THE TIME IT'S THE GLOW BAR IGNITOR THAT GOES BAD.
EVEN IF IT GLOWS A LOT OF THE TIME ITS STILL BAD BECAUSE IT DOESN'T PUT OUT ENOUGH ENERGY TO OPEN THE SAFETY VALVE TO IGNITE THE GAS. THAT GLOW BAR IGNITOR CAN BE FIT WITH SEVERAL DIFFERENT ONES UNIVERSALLY BECAUSE IT CAN BE SPLICED INTO OLD WIRE PLUG AND USED . YOU CAN WATCH YOU TUBE VIDEOS AND DO IT YOURSELF IF COMFORTABLE DOING SO.
most likely you have a bad ignitor,this is the first thing that goes,if it glows and doesn't ignite the flame within 40 seconds after it starts to glow the ignitor is still bad even though it glows orange.if it's a flat ignitor it takes 3.2 amps for the ignitor to open the gas valve and ignite the flame,if it's a round ignitor it takes 2.5 amps to fire it up.you don't have to shut the gas down,if it's a fairly new machine no electricity will go to the ignitor either if it's shut off but you can shut the breaker down if you want.the machines are not like the older machines where you lite it with a match,they are electronic ignition so check the ignitor first,if it doesn't glow at all you can check the ignitor for continuity with a meter.if you need any more help send the full model number off of the machine,open the bottom draw under the oven door,look on the frame,left or right side and you'll see a tag with the model number on it.good luck and happy new year.
you have a bad ignitor part number 74007498 and it's around 65 dollars.pull out the racks and remove the floor of the stove and you'll see the ignitor screwed to the burner tube,wet the screws with a wet paper towel,they will come out easier or if it makes it any easier remove the tube and then remove the ignitor.first start the stove if the ignitor glows but doesn't ignite the flame in 40 seconds or less it's bad,if it doesn't glow at all check it for continuity but it sounds like the ignitor is bad,if the new ignitor comes with wire nuts,cut the wires close to the body of the old ignitor,trim some of the wires back on the new ignitor and wire nut them together with the ceramic wire nuts,on some you can get the screws out of the ignitor,cut the wires close to the body,mount the new ignitor,trim back the wires on the new ignitor and wire nut them together and you're done,it doesn't matter how long the wires are just as long as the wire nuts are under the floor and away from the tube.it might help to remove the bottom draw to get at the wires,hope this helps and good luck.
it seems to be very expensive shop arround there are alot of con men out there and he seems to be one a control pannel for that oven $105 and easy to fix no time at all $195 to fit 20 mins work at most 30mins
Based on your description,I`d suggest it is the hot surface ignitor for the bake burner that is likely the problem...even though it glows, I'll explain further below.
Here's what you can try to verify if it's indeed the ignitor...if you're mechanically inclined. It'll look like this...
** FIRST unplug the range and turn off the gas to the appliance before attempting any service...safety first**
NOTE: Some ranges have an upper broiler the same as the lower (bake) ignitor ( some do some don't ) one could swap the ignitor`s ( very carefully, they are very fragile and don`t like to be handled ) this will allow you to use the bake burner, but it will leave you without the broil function...until you can purchase another.
This will confirm or dismiss if the ignitor is at fault...99% of the time this is the case. Many people overlook the ignitor, especially if it "glows" since that gives the untrained person the impression it works...that is not the case however. (Ignitor may glow but not have sufficient amperage to open valve, or open the valve slightly, even intermittently...but not hot enough to ignite the gas).
As far as checking them you don't actually need a clamp on (though it is the preferred method) you can also ohm it out to test it as follows...
You should be able to find one at most brick & mortar appliance parts vendors or on-line depot's such as "repairclinic.com", "searspartsdirect.com" to name a couple.
You can ask for part number based on the model number for the bake ignitor. The number I use in most applications (it's fairly universal and replaces both long and short ignitors and works in 90% of ranges out there)... is part #12400035.
I would still double check with your model number with the part`s professional`s if you're more comfortable with that.
Hope that help`s. Let me know if I can assist you further or if anything is not clear and good luck.
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you need to by a meter to read out the parts that could be bad.most likely it's the ignitor from the parts you said you've already changed but just unplug the dryer unplug the ignitor put your meter on say 20k it doesn't matter,touch the leads to the ignitor wires inside the plastic connector and if it stays on 1 it's bad if you get a reading any reading except 1 it's good that's it,if it is good check the thermal fuse,you have to pull at least one of the wires off to get the correct reading,if that's good check the sensor,hopefully it will be one of these parts,if it's a timer,motor, or gas valve you might want to replace the dryer depending on how old and what shape it's in,good luck,if you need any more help let me know
With gas stoves its either or...if your ignitor is weak it may not allow the gas valve to open...a new ignitor and it works fine././/now you have a defective gas valve....new ignitor but no gas....The gas valve is wired through the ignitor and makes it difficult to diagnose...especially on here :)
When you turn the thermostat on your range on it sends 120 volts to the
bake valve and ignitor. The bake valve and ignitor are wired in series
and the ignitor draws all the current and heats up. As the ignitor
heats its resistance changes and when it is cherry red the current
switches to the gas valve and it opens. The amp draw on the ignitor
needs to be 3.2-3.6 amps for the gas valve to open. The gas valve has
gas to it at all times. The gas valve should open within 40 seconds after the ignitor starts to glow. If
the ignitor is glowing red and the gas valve doesn’t open the ignitor
is usually the problem. Sometimes the ignitor will glow red but the
resistance doesn’t change and the gas valve doesn’t draw the current.
This is not a do it your selfer!
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if you get 120 volts to the ignitor, then the ignitor will glow ,if not you have a bad ignitor. the valve should have continuity through the the 2 connections.. its poosible to have 110v to ground at ignitor, the only way you get 110v you need to check power across the 2 wires to the ignitor( not to ground), and this will not happen with a bad safety vavle