Question about Heating & Cooling
So it's winter and the heater is on. There are 4 units in the appartment, they work in sinc, apparently set up from the remote control to work as one system, programmed to come on and go off when you set the timer. We just moved in. The heater is pushing the hot air into the roof and nor heating the full room, shoulder hight there is no heat from the heater at all. One duct points to the roof and one down to the room.The Mode wont allow me to change one unit, the manual states that it has to be unselected from the group of heaters/aircon system to change a setting individually. The manual refers to 3 models, it is unclear if this pirticular model has a reversable air setting. I hope this helps, please assist it is freezing and the girlfriend is kranky over it.. Thank you. Henk
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If one coil was burnt out and you replaced the heaters and defrost terminator switch I would recheck the continuity through the defrost heaters. You can do this with an Ohm meter with the refrigerator unplugged. If you had an open coil in one of the heaters you did not have to replace the thermo disk. If you have a complete circuit through the heaters try using the old thermo disk. If you have a meter you can check the voltage from the heater connection on one side to the inlet side of the thermo disk with the refrigerator running in the defrost mode. You should read 115-125 Volts on the meter. This reading tells you that the defrost timer is supplying power to the heater circuit.
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
SOURCE: my appartment does not have
the unit runs all the time because of the fan (ventilation motor)-but it is not working on cooling or heating all the time - The ventilation motor pushes the air from the room through the machine and when the termostat is reading that you set it up for cooler air or warm air it will turn on the air conditioning part or the heating part of the machine-it is very good system actually
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
SOURCE: no heat
No Blower in Floor Mode
A customer arrives with a 1983 to 1995 Full Size Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury
automobile with automatic temperature control. If the complaint is no blower operation when
the floor mode is selected, the vehicle may have a problem with the thermal blower lockout
switch also referred to as the CELO (cold engine lock out switch).
The thermal blower lock out switch is located in the heater core intake hose. The two
wire switch has a thermal element with a small set of contacts, the contacts are open when the
coolant is below 120°F and closed when the coolant is above 120°F. The thermal blower lock
out switch also contains a vacuum switch, which applies vacuum to the outside/recirculate
valve when the system is in the floor position. When the engine coolant is below 120 degrees
and the selector is set to floor position, the thermal blower lock out prevents blower from
turning on and closes off the outside air during engine warm-up. When the coolant
temperature is above 120 degrees, and the selector is set to the floor position, the thermal
blower lock out switch allows the blower to operate and opens the outside air door.
In order to diagnose this problem, test the thermal blower lockout switch with the
engine at normal operating temperature (above 120°F). Unplug the wire harness connector
from the thermal blower lockout switch. Using a 15-amp fused wire, jumper the harness
terminals to test the switch. If the blower comes on, the thermal blower lock out switch is
faulty. If the blower doesn’t come on, look for an open between the control head selector and
thermal blower lock out switch.
In some cases the blower may continually run even when the engine temperature is
below 120 degrees. Unplug the thermal blower lock out switch and if the blower motor turns
off, the thermal blower lock out switch is faulty. If the motor continues to run, look for a
short to power between the control head selector and thermal blower lock out switch
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
If it was me I would cnage the sensor first. Simply because it is way cheaper than the control board and these sensors are fickle as hell to begin with.
Posted on May 14, 2009
SOURCE: 2005 highlander heater problem
I'm glad I could help. I'm reposting the solution below in case anyone needs it in the future. Please be sure to rate it for me!
Pull the temperature knob off and verify the thin 12mm nut is installed and tight behind it. I have seen several of these loosen up allowing the knob to turn but intermittently have no effect on temperature.
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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