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What tool do I use to take the back panel off of my kenmore electric dryer model 62802?

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  • Contributor
  • 7 Answers

Proly quarter inch nut driver or ratchet and socket and you'll need screw drivers

Posted on Feb 11, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: removing front panel on kenmore dryer

I was able to fix my dryer on my own. the problem was, i was instructed to access an area that wasn't correct for the needed repair.

Posted on Mar 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer (electric )

NOT ELITE HE4..... Model 96595400. Replaced thermistor and Hi-Limit Stat. Probably the thermistor.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

  • 188 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer leaves brown spots on clothing articles.

With the combination of seal gaps and brown spots (streaks) on your clothes, chances are the front (part # 3406129 ~ $26) and rear (part # 279857 ~ $17) drum seals need to be replaced. Run a rag around the seals and check the marks to confirm this is the problem.
Depending how big the gap is, you may need to replace the drum support rollers if they are worn (part # 349241T ~ $24).
The parts are available at Sears. Labor costs will vary depending on where you live and if you're not replacing them yourself.
Let me know if you need more help or information.
Good luck!

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

canbruce75
  • 1776 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove top panel of kenmore dryer model

Check the video at the following link and see if you find the information helpful in changing the door switch. Sure hope it does and best wishes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC8SY3cU1Yc&feature=PlayList&p=A8EAB62928245279&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=61

Posted on Oct 01, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer model 110.60942990 no

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the part numbers are as follows:

Heating Element - 279838
TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit - 279816

All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

All your heating circuits are accessible by removing the lower toe panel dire the rear of the dryer by removing the back panel. Just remove the screws around the perimeter of the back panel and the heating circuits will be located on the right-hand side. Refer to the exploded view diagrams at the websites2.gif I mentioned for reference. The heating circuitry is located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Posted on Nov 01, 2009

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have a series 90 heavy duty electric Kenmore dryer. I think the heating element has gone out. Is this an easy fix. Dryer still works just doesnt get hot to dry clothes.


If The front panel is one assembly then the element is on the back behind the cover, if there is a small panel on the bottom ending about where the door starts the element is behind that panel on the right hand side. In either case it if fairly easy to get to. Also check the two thermostats on the heating element. Both should have continuity. If either one is open replace them both.

Jan 31, 2011 | Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Hello, I think the fuse has blown in my series 80, Kenmore electric dryer. Can you please tell me what it looks like and the location of it. Thank you.


It's a thermal fuse and it is white plastic about an inch and a half long. has 2 wires going to it,usually lt.blue, If you remove the back panel of the dryer it is located near the dryer exhaust above the high limit thermostat.
If the thermal fuse is blown the dryer will not run.
Hope this helps.

Dec 11, 2010 | Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My electric dryer is taking forever to dry and the air coming out of the duct outside is cool what could be the problem?


Heating coil and it is located on the back right inside of the dryer.
1) unplug dryer
2) open door remove screws
3) with a flat tip screw driver pry gently up on the top corners it will pop
4) move front panel forward and disconnect door switch
5) sit panel aside
6) lift top lid of dryer 90 degrees it has clip/hinged on back
7) look to the right back of dryer, it looks like a spring in a metal box disconnect and replace.
Hope this helps Tim

Sep 23, 2010 | Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Where is the motor in a 62802 Kenmore clothes dryer. The dryer makes a humming noise but the drum won't turn. The belt is intact but not real tight around the drum. I can't locate the motor and pully. How...


You'll need to remove the top lid then the front panel.. on the bottom right of the cabinet you'll find the pulley which sounds like the problem the motor is right there behind the pulley...Good Luck

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Try unplugging it for ten mins or so to reset the chip.

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If this is a new element, this is normal until it has been used a few cycles. Use it and watch it carefully for a while. If it continues have a competent person to take the rear panel off and check for burnt wires or lint inside the unit.

Sep 21, 2009 | Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

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sounds like the heating element has gone south
if you open up the dryer you can check continuity across the element but make sure power is unplugged

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check your motor relay under your control panel

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