Question about Bazooka BTA10100 Car Subwoofer

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Intermittent Problem Sub plays for a while, then stops, then plays again, sometimes several times within the same song. Sometimes makes a sound as it fades in and out of play. I opened it up and sure enough, the plastic bracket retaining the heat sink to the enclosure had snapped. I felt that this could certainly be related to the problem (everytime the bass would crank the heat sink would viobrate pulling on the wires) so I pulled on the wire and found that 1 of the 4 connections was a bit loose. I fit it back on, fixed the retaining clip and remounted the heat sink to its perpendicular position - feeling that I surely had fixed the problem. Not so. The device gave me about 15" of trouble free playing, I was convince that it had been fixed. I played the 3 songs that seemed to the problem the most: Lovers in a Dangerous Time (Bare Naked Ladies), Temperature (Sean Paul) and Fly Away (Lenny Kravitz). The sub failed midway the 3rd song. I was certain that this was a mechanical problem, one related to the vibrations of the speaker causing a loose connection somewhere. However, I'm not so sure anymore, I'm starting to think that this may be a heat problem. The vibrations in the first 2 songs were much more deep that those of the 3rd. However, the bass is working overtime with Lenny, it's constantly going and this seems to be what is triggering the failure. but if its a heat problem, why does it fade in and out and why the sound? Could it be a cold solder? If so, how do I locate the failure point? Any suggestions?

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Your amp may be drawing too much of a load for the sub.
I had a Jbl 12" sub rated at 140watts @4ohm and a Jbl Bp300.1 amp with 150 watts @4ohm. I blew the sub and replaced it with a 275watt Jbl and every time certain tracks were played,(heavy on the bass) the amp would soft clip.

Sub, no sub, sub,no sub. Try lowering the volume and if this fixes the issue(temporarily) and only happens when these particular tracks play, then your sub may be drawing more than your amp can deliver.

I had to get a new amp. Jbl GT601.1 putting out 424watts rms @4ohm to efficiently run the sub.

Posted on Jul 13, 2008

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If it still repeatedly done this... easy fix ..... fix it to where its working perfectly, and simply use epoxy to glue it. i have had this problem multiple times and this always fixed it. make sure before u use the epoxy make sure it doesn't conduct a current. this is easily tested also, use a small amount of epoxy, let it dry, and use it as a conductor to a multimeter. if this doesnt work, its not the equipment, its the user.

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

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Your running to low of a ohm load thats your problem

Posted on Dec 02, 2007

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I had A ground zero 10inch subwoofer that did that same thing,When taking it apart i found that one of the voice coils where bad,You might need to take it and get the voice coils looked at.What happens is when the woofer has played long enough the voice coils start to separate.If over or under powered that could be one of your problems.

Posted on Sep 12, 2007

If there's a lot of high excursion time on the woofer your leads that go from the terminal block and go to the cone/coil assembley have a break in them somewhere. I have done this to many woofers and I personally have no problem with this woofer.(yet) Anyway you can't look at them as they are under the spider. The way you can tell is to turn on some music, any type, then push on the cone. You wan't to push hard and even on the cone so you don't scuff the voice coil. If the woofer cuts out there's you r prob. By the way completely ignore the other comment from The Marv. Hes is way off coarse.

Posted on Apr 01, 2007

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One thing that comes to mind is you said the heatsink had come loose. if this was the case and it was the heatsink for the output transistors. Then this seems to be the best place to look for a broken solder joint. When either the unit heats up or vibration. One of the legs to one of the transisters opens this would case a half wave cycle drop. Do not know if I would consider the sound it would make as static. But it would become very garbled. get a bright light a slowly look over the circuit for broken solder joints use a magnifier if you have one. also wiggle the wires and tap on the circuit with something non-conductive like wood or plactic see if you can make this cause the condition. This may help narrow your search. Check as well on the top of the circuit look close at the transistor leads, because flexing back and forth can case them to break if flexed in the right place.

Posted on Aug 08, 2006

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