Question about Bazooka BTA10100 Car Subwoofer
Your amp may be drawing too much of a load for the sub.
I had a Jbl 12" sub rated at 140watts @4ohm and a Jbl Bp300.1 amp with 150 watts @4ohm. I blew the sub and replaced it with a 275watt Jbl and every time certain tracks were played,(heavy on the bass) the amp would soft clip.
Sub, no sub, sub,no sub. Try lowering the volume and if this fixes the issue(temporarily) and only happens when these particular tracks play, then your sub may be drawing more than your amp can deliver.
I had to get a new amp. Jbl GT601.1 putting out 424watts rms @4ohm to efficiently run the sub.
Posted on Jul 13, 2008
If it still repeatedly done this... easy fix ..... fix it to where its working perfectly, and simply use epoxy to glue it. i have had this problem multiple times and this always fixed it. make sure before u use the epoxy make sure it doesn't conduct a current. this is easily tested also, use a small amount of epoxy, let it dry, and use it as a conductor to a multimeter. if this doesnt work, its not the equipment, its the user.
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
Your running to low of a ohm load thats your problem
Posted on Dec 02, 2007
I had A ground zero 10inch subwoofer that did that same thing,When taking it apart i found that one of the voice coils where bad,You might need to take it and get the voice coils looked at.What happens is when the woofer has played long enough the voice coils start to separate.If over or under powered that could be one of your problems.
Posted on Sep 12, 2007
If there's a lot of high excursion time on the woofer your leads that go from the terminal block and go to the cone/coil assembley have a break in them somewhere. I have done this to many woofers and I personally have no problem with this woofer.(yet) Anyway you can't look at them as they are under the spider. The way you can tell is to turn on some music, any type, then push on the cone. You wan't to push hard and even on the cone so you don't scuff the voice coil. If the woofer cuts out there's you r prob. By the way completely ignore the other comment from The Marv. Hes is way off coarse.
Posted on Apr 01, 2007
One thing that comes to mind is you said the heatsink had come loose. if this was the case and it was the heatsink for the output transistors. Then this seems to be the best place to look for a broken solder joint. When either the unit heats up or vibration. One of the legs to one of the transisters opens this would case a half wave cycle drop. Do not know if I would consider the sound it would make as static. But it would become very garbled. get a bright light a slowly look over the circuit for broken solder joints use a magnifier if you have one. also wiggle the wires and tap on the circuit with something non-conductive like wood or plactic see if you can make this cause the condition. This may help narrow your search. Check as well on the top of the circuit look close at the transistor leads, because flexing back and forth can case them to break if flexed in the right place.
Posted on Aug 08, 2006
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 30, 2011 | Night Owl Optics Explorer NOCX3G Monocular
Jul 20, 2011 | Apple iPod touch
Jul 17, 2011 | 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis
Jun 15, 2010 | 1990 Dodge Dakota
Feb 07, 2010 | Wurlitzer Jukebox 1015 One More Time...
Dec 28, 2009 | Pioneer DEH-P4100UB
Jan 14, 2009 | Cambridge Soundworks 88CD CD Player
Dec 05, 2008 | 1987 Mercedes-Benz S-Class
Jan 20, 2007 | Emerson EWR20V4 DVD Recorder/VCR
360 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: